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350 modded engine

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by aknight_sa, Oct 30, 2005.

  1. aknight_sa

    aknight_sa 1/2 ton status

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    hello all,

    please go through the following and help me with some questions i have


    CHEVEROLET RACING ENGINE, SMALL BLOCK 350, V8, 1983.

    1. NEW SPECIAL OVERHAUL ENGINE.
    2. NEW CAMSHAFT, SOLID 292 (LUNATI) CO.
    3. NEW VALVE LIFTER, SOLID (LUNATI) CO.
    4. NEW VALVES SPRINGS.
    5. NEW HEAD COVER STANLES STEEL, 1.7 (EDEL BROK) CO. *
    6. NEW RACING SPARK PLAG, (NGK) CO.
    7. NEW DOUBLE AIR FILTER MEDUOM SIZE (EDEL BROK) CO. *
    8. NEW AIR FILTER COVER STANLES STEEL, (EDEL BROK) CO. *
    9. NEW CARBORATOR, 750 (DEMON) CO. *
    10. NEW BIG FUEL PUMP (454) GM.
    11. NEW KIT DOUBLE CRANK AND CAMSHAFT POLYS & SPROCET SHAIN.
    12. NEW KIT MSD IGNITION 6A. *
    13. MSD DISTRIBUTOR. *
    14. MSD COIL. *
    15. MSD SPAK PLAG WIRES.
    16. INTAKE MANIFOLD, (WEIAND) CO. *



    the questions i have are as follows:

    1. the engine was built with alot of different brands, will all of these work together perfectly?

    2. will a standard 350 sized transmission and axle (GM Corporate 10-bolt (8.5-in. 1.28 Axle Dia. 28 Spline)) be able to take the power of the engine and not break??

    3. how much does such an engine cost??


    Thanks
     
  2. 1977k5

    1977k5 3/4 ton status Vendor

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    Breaking axles really doesn't have anything to do with how much power you have. It has to do with how you drive, what size tires you are running, etc. That motor would not be very good in a truck: it has a solid cam (valves have to be adjusted like every oil change, valvetrain wears out much faster, etc) and that cam is way too aggressive for a truck. Having the different brands is fine. I don't know what a motor like this would cost, if this isn't a pre-assembled motor (i.e. someone told you this would be a good combo to run) you can check for parts at jegs.com or summitracing.com.
     
  3. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    I highly disagree. You cant break an axle with 1hp. But it is much easier with 350 hp. Granted, tire size and driving style play a role in it. But with a stock 10 bolt, even on factory sized tires, a strong 350 will break the shafts on the street. I have seen it done. And that was with a 6.2 n/a engine. I know the pumped up 350 puts out more hp and torque than the 6.2 Just think about it. It makes no sense whatsoever to say that engine power has nothing to do with breaking axles. You said it yourself. You said "driving style" has something to do with it. By driving style im sure you mean how much throttle you give. Now correct me if im wrong, but doesnt more throttle usually mean more power? I dont mean to sound like a jerk at all (thats actually the last thing I want to do), but its kind of dumb to say that engine power doesnt have anything to do with breaking shafts.
    -Harrison
     
  4. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    1. Yes, they will all work together, as long as you pick the right duration cam, and get everything adjusted properly (i.e., the timing, and carb adjustments).

    2. It all depends on what you do with it and what size tires you have on it. If you dont wheel it, and keep it easy, then it should hold up for a pretty long while. If you try to do burnouts with it on the street, especially with oversized tires, it will eventually blow. If you plan on doing hardcore wheeling with anything over 33-35's, then its only a matter of time before it goes. Heck, ive seen a 10 bolt rear blow on a k5's with 35's only crossing a very small ditch. The truck got too flexed and it just snapped in half. As for the th350 tranny, they are pretty stout. It should last for a long time with proper maintainance. As long as it doesnt already have a million miles on it.

    3. Theres no telling. 2 companies could be selling the exact same engine for completley different prices. The cheapest way would probably be to piece it together yourself using summitracing or jegs website, then either assemble it yourself, or have some do it for ya for cheap (as long as they know what their doing).
    -Harrison
     
  5. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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    too many variables to answer any of your questions. you made no mention of compression ratio, what cylinder heads were used, what trans and transfer case its backed by, or the gear ratio and presence of a traction device in the axles. also, tire size would help considerably.
     
  6. aknight_sa

    aknight_sa 1/2 ton status

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    guys,

    thanks for your replies... the most i wanted to know about was would the car be able to take the pressure from the engine.. and it seems that it wont as the transmission and shafts could snap at any time..

    the guy who has that engine fitted it in an old Rang Rover, and when he tried to rocket up a sand mountin the diffintial brock.. then he replaced it.. tried again then the transimssion brock down.. he was insisting that the blazer can easly handle this engine and wont have any problems... i wasnt really interested in it as i am more into offroad driving that onroad.. and i wont be doing any drag racing with it... if i wanted to do that i use my other car (has an LS1 engine)
     
  7. bbengines

    bbengines Newbie

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    Ignition tip

    Just a thought on your msd6a, you might spend a few dollars more and get the 6al. The rev limiter comes in mighty handy if you don't want to put your engine back in kit form.

    Also, lose the 10 bolt axle, they can't take a lot of punishment.
     
  8. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    Once again, it all depends. As long as the th350 tranny isnt already slipping or on its last leg, it should hold up no problem to a modded 350. Its a stout tranny. I have seen them hold up to strong 454's, wit nothing more than a shift kit. The 10 bolt is where breakage would occur. What tire size will you be running? If you stay 33-35, and always stay easy on the right foot.....it cold hold up for several years. If it has a gov-lock in the rear....well it could blow with a 4cyl then. :haha: Basically, the weakest link in your truck so far seems to be the 10 bolt axle. The tranny, t-case, frame, etc will all hold the power. Why not just upgrade to a 14ff in the rear? They are a dime a dozen. People on here commonly sell them for as little as $50. That way you could end up with better gears, and possibly a locker. :D
    -Harrison
     
  9. 1977k5

    1977k5 3/4 ton status Vendor

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    Well, you're right that you need more than 1hp to break a 10 bolt. And I really didn't consider breaking axles on the street, thought you never know what other factors may have been involved, i.e. a bad wheel bearing chewing up the axle surface or previously damaging the shaft (4 wheeling, etc.). I don't mean to say that 10 bolts don't break on the street, but there are tons of people at the drag strip running stock 8.5" 10 bolts well into the 10's with 500+ hp (granted in lighter cars, but that is some pretty harsh abuse). Generally, 4 wheeling is much harder on axles than driving on the street. So, given that, if you are flooring it on the trail you will destroy your 10 bolts, stock engine or not. If you drive with finesse, you can make them survive (tire size depending). Just because you have the hp doesn't mean you have to use it. I have never been at WOT while rockcrawling, and probably because of this I have never broken a shaft or u-joint (even when I was on 1/2 tons). My motor makes 425+ hp, but if I am not at WOT it does not make anywhere near that much which means I have much less chance of breaking things.
     

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