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350 Tranny bolts

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by socal chevy, Sep 1, 2005.

  1. socal chevy

    socal chevy 1/2 ton status

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    So Im about to bolt up the 350 to my tranny, and **** those bolts up high are so freaking hard to get too! I cant fit a torque wrench in there, so what do I do? How do I know if I got them tight enough, actually how do i reach them to tighten them!?!? :confused:
     
  2. adamforsythe

    adamforsythe 1/2 ton status

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    Hello,
    The best way to do it is take the dizzy off and get to the bolts that way. You are going to have to get into the engine bay...watch where you step.
    Thanks
    Adam
     
  3. josh86k10

    josh86k10 1/2 ton status

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    about 2-3 feet worth of extensions and a wobble-joint.
     
  4. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    As mentioned, the extra long extensions and get to it from under the truck works.

    What I've always done is just get a small boxed end wrench (had a 12 point 1/2-9/16" craftsman myself) and do it that way. Yeah, it takes a few turns, but you can get enough torque on them, they will hold.

    If you've got the ratcheting box ends, those I believe will fit, if for nothing else than to get the bolt close to being fully seated, then hitting it with a real box end. (since the ends of the ratcheting are sometimes too big to fit into tight spots)
     
  5. trailblazr81

    trailblazr81 1/2 ton status

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    Ive done it a few times... the easiest for the top two are done by straddling the engine and a box end wrench. I even made a longer box end by welding some flat stock to the wrench. That extra 10-12 inches made the job alot easier. And if the distributor is out... its a breeze!! Good Luck!!

    :waytogo:
     
  6. perp

    perp 1/2 ton status

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    I know body lifts are gay, but a 1" lift makes this sooooo easy
     
  7. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    take the hump out..

    You can sit in the drivers seat and reach them if your tranny hump is removeable..THATS the easiest way! :D --I had a 3" body lift on my 74 K20,putting them in from underneath with long extentions was a peice of cake..pulling the distributor out helps make it easier to do from above as noted already,and having a long wrench with a narrow box end,or a "flip socket" style is best to tighten them from above--ratchets usually wont fit in there..no need for a torque wrench--just tighten them firmly,they only need 35 ft lbs.--not that much torque..none of mine ever fell out!.. :crazy:
     
  8. socal chevy

    socal chevy 1/2 ton status

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    Awesome thanks for the tips guys... Isnt removing the distributor a b*tch to remove? I took it out once, and I dont think I want to do it again! :p:
     
  9. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I don't pull mine. It's a tight fit, but it's doable. I put up with the hassle instead of pulling it, just makes more work.
     
  10. trailblazr81

    trailblazr81 1/2 ton status

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    Removing the distributor is a breeze. Lining it up to put back in can be time consuming. Sometimes its taken me 20 minutes to get back in, other times Ive been lucky and got it back in on the 4th try...
     
  11. K5er4Life

    K5er4Life 1/2 ton status

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    The hardest part about putting the dist back in is getting the oil pump rod lined up, usually if mine moves once I get it out you can take a flashlight and a long flat head screw driver and align the pump better so your distributer goes back in easier. But yeah a little body lift makes it waaaaaayyy easier to get to those bolts.
     

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