Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

355 or 383?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by sled_dog, Jun 21, 2004.

  1. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2002
    Posts:
    16,870
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Austin, TX
    I think I will be building myself a new motor this summer. I'm wondering which do you think I should plan, 355 or 383? 350 will of course be cheaper cause it I could reuse the crank. BUt 383 has the torque thing going for it. I think the motor I have now is alright(355) but more power is always nice. Want a real balance job this time so I can rev up to say 5000 and stay there with confidence. Either way I think the build will be, Comp X4258HR(206/210 @ .050, XE 4x4 cam, Roller), about 10:1 compression, Ported Vortec heads, Edelbrock RPM intake, some real new headers. And quality parts throughout. Factory rods and crank(unless 383) and ARP studs holding everything together. Double roller timing setup, windage tray, and crank scraper. Polish the block and clean up all drain back holes. I got a motor from a buddy of mine so thats the reason I won't go to a 377 or a 400. It is out of a like 88 Caprice 9c1, so its a roller block motor thats the reason I want it.
     
  2. Jonny-K5

    Jonny-K5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    May 27, 2003
    Posts:
    1,654
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    SoCal
    i would go with a 355 and use the money you saved from the crank and put it to use in the rest of the motor.
     
  3. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2002
    Posts:
    9,097
    Likes Received:
    144
    Location:
    california
    Why do you want 10.1:1 compression? I have noticed a trend in you that you like high compression. Why? High compression motors are a PITA unless you plan on running propane. If it was me I would keep it about 9.1:1 comp so you can put gas in it that isn't $5 per gallon.
     
  4. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2000
    Posts:
    26,980
    Likes Received:
    189
    Location:
    Roy WA
    You do know how much the retrofit rollers cost, no?

    If doing it over again, I would have started out with an '87+ roller/one piece rear main motor.

    By their own admission Comp's roller lifters are inferior to OEM ones, so besides *trying* to save money or keep an original engine block, I see no reason to not go with an OEM roller block.
     
  5. Bhintz

    Bhintz 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2003
    Posts:
    1,341
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Roswell, Ga
    Id go w/ the 383 hands down you cant beat all that torque at 2000 rpm lower than were that 355 will make peak torque at
     
  6. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2002
    Posts:
    16,870
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Austin, TX
    I noted its an 88 block so its a factory roller setup, wouldn't spend the money on that aftermarket crap retrofit stuff, not for this application anyway. Compression will probably be more like 9.5:1 with the vortec chamber, polish chamber it should run on pump gas. But at the sametime my cam won't be bleeding off much in the way of compression.
     
  7. 84gmcjimmy

    84gmcjimmy 1 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2003
    Posts:
    12,838
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    B.C. CANADA
    I'd say 383 for the extra torque in the lower RPM's /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  8. CyberSniper

    CyberSniper 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2003
    Posts:
    2,257
    Likes Received:
    5
    Location:
    Chelsea, MI
    [ QUOTE ]
    You do know how much the retrofit rollers cost, no?

    If doing it over again, I would have started out with an '87+ roller/one piece rear main motor.

    By their own admission Comp's roller lifters are inferior to OEM ones, so besides *trying* to save money or keep an original engine block, I see no reason to not go with an OEM roller block.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I'm going to start a hijack here.

    What vehicles had roller lifter blocks in them after 1987? You make it sound like all of them but I have a 1989 TBI block that has flat tappet lifters in it. I was under the impression only select vehicles got roller lifter blocks until 1996 with the advent of the Vortec.
     
  9. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2002
    Posts:
    16,870
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Austin, TX
    no actually ALL vehicles EXCEPT trucks got roller lifters. Really stupid but in 87 everything but the pickups, blazers, and burbs had roller lifters in them. And that is true till 96 when trucks got roller lifters.
     
  10. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2000
    Posts:
    26,980
    Likes Received:
    189
    Location:
    Roy WA
    Yeah sorry about that, you started getting into specs and I just spaced out. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    Going to be a 2 bolt main block if that matters to you, but I don't think I'd worry about it.

    4 bolt rollers are available, but from all I've seen, trucks were the only ones that got them. (So Vortec only with 4 bolt roller blocks...again from what documentation I've seen)
     
  11. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

    Joined:
    May 31, 2000
    Posts:
    10,384
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Georgetown, TX
    The trucks starting in '87 have roller blocks. But GM didn't install the roller cam in them. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif On most, you have to machine and tap the standoffs for the metal "spider" that holds the lifter retainers in place. But everyone that I've seen the inside of already had the flats machined for the retainers. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif So ya need a roller cam, factory roller lifters and retainers, and the spider to convert to a full roller engine. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  12. Bullet

    Bullet 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2001
    Posts:
    1,222
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Abilene, Texas
    THREE



























    EIGHTY








































    THREE




























    'Nuff Said /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
     
  13. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

    Joined:
    May 31, 2000
    Posts:
    10,384
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Georgetown, TX
    And oh yeah, you'll need the pushrods from the roller engine also. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  14. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

    Joined:
    May 31, 2000
    Posts:
    10,384
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Georgetown, TX
    Cubic inches are your friend!

    What as the question again? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
     
  15. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2002
    Posts:
    16,870
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Austin, TX
    nah 2 bolt doesn't matter really, probably put splayed milodon mains on it anyway.
     
  16. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2001
    Posts:
    2,261
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Fort Collins, CO
    FWIW, I am building a high-rev 355 for my 1971 C10. It is going together with all forged stuff, Trickflow heads, Comp sold-roller valve train and a little unit called a turbocharger too bad I still have to buy the heads, turbo, and fuel injection which are $6000 together... /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif I think I am gonna get the heads firt so I can drive it with a carb until the funds for the turbo and FI come in...

    Chris
     
  17. CyberSniper

    CyberSniper 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2003
    Posts:
    2,257
    Likes Received:
    5
    Location:
    Chelsea, MI
    OK, so 1987 and later all got provisions for roller lifters. They just didn't necessarily get machined for roller lifters unless they were in a car then they did get roller lifters. And the trucks didn't get roller lifters until the Vortec in 1996. So, in essence, the trucks had provisions for roller lifters but lacked them. I take it that vans are put into the truck category?

    So, now we're going to get more specific.

    Does this mean all the 305s after 1987 put into cars got roller lifters? Can I take the roller 305 valvetrain and put it into a non-roller 350 that came with roller provisions? If so, how much work does it take? Is it as simple as drilling and tapping in the lifter valley to hold the spider in place?

    What cars that weren't LT1/LT4 and not F-body or Y-body got roller 350s?
     
  18. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2002
    Posts:
    19,217
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Everywhere
    [ QUOTE ]
    Why do you want 10.1:1 compression? I have noticed a trend in you that you like high compression. Why? High compression motors are a PITA unless you plan on running propane. If it was me I would keep it about 9.1:1 comp so you can put gas in it that isn't $5 per gallon.

    [/ QUOTE ] I like high compression engines. MORE POWER !!!!! But they do wear out quicker. I'm planning on closer to 11 to 1 on the next street screamer I build. But ofcorse I'm talking aluminum heads.
     
  19. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2002
    Posts:
    16,870
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Austin, TX
    305 valvetrain swap would be no issue if your block is ready to accept the parts.
     
  20. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2002
    Posts:
    16,870
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Austin, TX
    Thinking about the heads and I'm on the fence. if I can find some Vortecs for like $200 that will be the way I go I guess. Then I will need new valve springs and retainers, machining to fit them... roller rockers are more expensive.
     

Share This Page