Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

37 " boggers Let the breakage begin

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by bajaviking, Mar 1, 2005.

  1. bajaviking

    bajaviking 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2002
    Posts:
    752
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Baja
    A friend of mine bought 37" Boggers for his Heep and found that it would be too much work to fit them so he sold them to me for $650, I sold my 2 year old 35" BFG's to a friend for $250 so in total it cost me $400.
    I thought this was a good deal and I couldn't say no, they fit nicely and since my fenders are already trimmed front and back they don't rub so everything is good exept for my front 10 bolt with lock-right. I don't do much rock crawling exept for what you might encounter on a medium to hard trial ride. How worried should I be, I can't afford a Dana 60 now, is there someway to beef up the front 10 bolt a little without breaking the bank? I run a welded 14 bolt in the rear so that should be OK.
     
  2. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

    Joined:
    May 30, 2001
    Posts:
    17,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    IL, USA
    Tack weld your joints in and I'd bet you'll be ok as long as you don't crank and stomp.
     
  3. AkMudr

    AkMudr 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2004
    Posts:
    917
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Alaska
    I'd change ujoints, Spicer 5-760's but thats it. Dont waste yer money on chromo shafts unless you plan on never buyin a d60, Boggers are pretty aggressive so you might eventually break some ujoints and shafts. I'd get some spares now just in case. Yer foot will be the deciding factor tho.
     
  4. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2002
    Posts:
    16,870
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Austin, TX
    I'd run them till you break or break repeatedly. Just carry spares and become familiar with how to replace stubs and inners on the trail.
     
  5. AkMudr

    AkMudr 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2004
    Posts:
    917
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Alaska
    Thats what I did, granted I'm not runnin anythin aggressive like boggers, nor a 37. But Ive got a full set of shafts already loaded with ujoints waitin to go in. Ive got a heavy foot and only grenaded one ujoint so far, Ive got a video of that I'll post up once I get the dam thing on my computer. :D
     
  6. bajaviking

    bajaviking 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2002
    Posts:
    752
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Baja
    I have never heard about tack welding the joints, can you explain how that will help and write slow, if not I won't get it:D
     
  7. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

    Joined:
    May 30, 2001
    Posts:
    17,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    IL, USA
    You use a welder to spot weld your joints into place..nothing really technical about it.
     
  8. Poohbair

    Poohbair 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2003
    Posts:
    2,139
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Ellensburg, WA
    I believe Tim is just talking about spot welding your U-Joint caps to the axle yoke. This keeps the axle from spitting the ujoint cap out which causes alot of failure in those shafts. Usually when the ujoint breaks or the cap comes off, it tears the ears off the axle too.
     
  9. JK5

    JK5 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2002
    Posts:
    3,453
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Norton, Oh
    You should be ok....37" boggers are a 35" tall tire.:cool1:
     
  10. JK5

    JK5 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2002
    Posts:
    3,453
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Norton, Oh
    Tim....you only do that when you have to!!! That's a trail fix!!!:doah: :shame:
     
  11. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

    Joined:
    May 30, 2001
    Posts:
    17,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    IL, USA
    I don't think so. My 10 bolt failed one of two ways. Once, the joint broke. The other time, the ears stretched, and the clips spit off and the joint failed because of retention.

    A lot of guys on pirate have been tack welding joints into their axles for quite some time. I'm going to do it with my new axles/joints that I'll be installing this year.
     
  12. joez

    joez 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2003
    Posts:
    2,512
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    New Lenox, Illinois
    Not true, it does help. If mine werent rusted in place good i would have tac'd them already.

    But, orriginal poster be advised, carry complete assembled spare shafts when you do this, which you should do anyway, but its more important when you have welded your caps to your ears. Theres no salvaging a stub or inner shaft when on the trail without a grider if the ears dont break.
     
  13. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2001
    Posts:
    8,972
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Peoria, AZ
    Tack welding your caps in place is a preventative measure more then a trail fix. It helps ensure that your caps stay in place incase a c-clip comes loose. If a c-clip comes off when you are wheeling and your caps are welded your cap will walk out and if you don't catch it in time you will waste your axleshaft. Most of the time you will not be lucky enough to catch the cap walkiing out before it is to late.

    It is also a way of catching a ujoint going bad before they break. If the joint is getting bad they can bind up enough to twist the cap inside the axleshaft and break the tach welds. If the c-clip is still in place you will not loose the cap and blow the joint and axleshafts up. This happened to me recently. I was doing standard equipment check one weekend in my driveway and I notice that the tach welds had busted on 2 of my caps. I then noticed that there was a small gap developing in the stubshaft ears. If I hadn't seen this it would have broke on the next trail run for sure. I ended up being able to reuse the inner axleshaft so it was not a total loss of both the inner and outer axleshaft if the joint failed.

    Harley
     
  14. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2001
    Posts:
    8,972
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Peoria, AZ
    P.S. When you tack weld caps in place don't do all the tacks on one cap at the same time. Do one tach per cap then rotate to the next cap until you have the number of tach welds you want. This will help disappate heat from the ujoint bearings from the welding.

    Harley
     
  15. AkMudr

    AkMudr 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2004
    Posts:
    917
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Alaska
    I'll be doint hat to mien when I do the steering. I blew on a few months ago becuase the cap walked out, had to replace shafts and all. And actualy, the ears on the shafts opened up so wide I had to take the knuckle off becusae it wouldnt fit thru the spindle hole. LOL :D Bad juju.I carry 2 fully assembled shafts ready to go in. lol



    fixed it for yah :D
     
  16. JK5

    JK5 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2002
    Posts:
    3,453
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Norton, Oh
    LOL....haven't you guys heard of bearing lock???
    Once those ears get stretched...the axle shaft is junk...
    it's just a WEAK link....ready to breakage.

    We have a couple guys in the 4x4 club I'm in..that do that crap on a regular basis...
    And when it comes time to trail ride...the junk they rigged comes apart on the trail.:mad:

    But what do I know....
    I just wheel 2 times a week...with 44's.
    With little or No breakage.:rolleyes:
     

Share This Page