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383 Cranks, Whats the differences?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by zcarczar, Feb 25, 2003.

  1. zcarczar

    zcarczar 1/2 ton status

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    In my dream to build a 383 I'm having trouble deciding what crank to get. I know that there is 3 styles of crank manufacturing processes, Casting, Forging and another one called Nodular Iron. I want to know what makes a Nodular Iron crank better than a Cast crank. My engine builder told me to get a Nodular one and I want to make sure its not just a gimmic. /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  2. ntsqd

    ntsqd 1/2 ton status

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    Nodular Iron is a stronger version of common cast iron. The casting and cooling process is manipulated to form bigger grains within the iron which makes for stronger metal parts. Bigger grains mean fewer grain boundaries which are what cracks follow when forming.
     
  3. u2slow

    u2slow 1/2 ton status

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    You may find all the 383 cranks are nodular iron anyway - check to be sure. When I was looking a few years back, it was nodular or forged only - basic cast was not even produced.

    Some cranks are better balanced than others - and they usually cost a bit more. Some are based on an exact copy of a 350 crank with the journals stretched. Sounds workable, but leaves the crank grossly out of balance. A properly designed crank has extra counterweighting to compensate for the longer throws on the crank. Otherwise you're into a costly balance job that requires heavy metal slugs installed in the counterweights.
     
  4. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    just know where it is coming from. you can run a cast crank up to 400 hp, if you know what your are doing.

    No one builds a "mild" 383, so if you can afford a forged bottom end, i would.

    it would go:

    Cast ($)
    Nod. Iron ($$)
    Forged ($$$)

    With the increadible offering of the parts places, you should get a balanced crank that fits your budget. Some places even make their own storker cranks. i would shy away from a remachined 400 crank.
     
  5. zcarczar

    zcarczar 1/2 ton status

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    Say I was to get this crank? Does it look like there is anything wrong with it because it is so cheap. Link
     
  6. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    it has the appropriate catch words, IMHO. i don't know the shop. I would buy something from summit or other shop you have feedback on. I would had to recomend a crank and you build a motor and it gernades.

    Have you thought about running a 334? A destroked 350 with 6" rods? by the looks of your avatar, you seem to enjoy speed.
     
  7. zcarczar

    zcarczar 1/2 ton status

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    Well speed is good to me, but I still do trail rides and some mild crawlin with my club, and my truck is still a daily driver. My whole reason for going to a 383 is because the previous owner put in a reman 350 and it sucks balls around town and on the freeway. I can barely pull OD on flat ground too.
     
  8. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    the 383 would certainly have more grunt.

    have you built motors before? Will you be building it? if so, i think getting that crank (or one like it) would be good for what you are describing.
     
  9. zcarczar

    zcarczar 1/2 ton status

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    Ive never built a motor before, but I will have a lot of help. My grandpa used to build drag race motors and he said he would help me get it setup right. I also work at a dealership and I'm friends with all of the mechanics there, they said they would help me also.
     
  10. bowtiepower00

    bowtiepower00 1/2 ton status

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    It's all in the heads and cam... A 350 should have more than enough power for most apps, but it's better to have too much than not enough. SDPC has nod cranks for under $300, as well as forged rods for about the same price. With some good heads (vortec or similar) and the right cam, 450 ft/lb+ isn't out of the question from a 383.
     
  11. zcarczar

    zcarczar 1/2 ton status

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    I wont need any rods, I have 2 good sets sitting in the garage out of 2 Vortec 350's. I was also plannin on running Vortec heads with maybe an LT1 cam or this one that Comp recommended for me to use. I think I ran the numbers on Desktop Dyno and got 356 HP and 446 Ft/Lbs of Torque.
     
  12. bowtiepower00

    bowtiepower00 1/2 ton status

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    That sounds good to me... I'm hoping to do a 383 or 400 this summer if I can get the computer sorted out, otherwise I'm going to stick with a 350. I'd like to eliminate the EGR, and run some Pro-Topline heads with an Edelbrock EPS manifold and Comp cam- maybe the XE262H with 1.6 rockers, but we'll see what happens.
     
  13. S-30

    S-30 Registered Member

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    377's are also a cool motor that you don't hear much about. not a standard bore 350 stroked but a 400 destroked. short stroke=lower piston speed=more rpm
     
  14. ben427

    ben427 1/2 ton status

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    Yep, thats what my race truck is getting, a 377 with 6" rods,tunnel ram, 15* bowtie heads, and an XR282 or 288 roller cam with roller rockers. should be good for 650-700 hp. I hope. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif But that will be about a year or so away, once i get my trail tuck done.
     
  15. bowtiepower00

    bowtiepower00 1/2 ton status

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    A 377 would be a wicked race motor. For my truck, which sees a lot of work and towing conditions I'd like to build a 427 Small Block, but I don't have that kind of money...
     
  16. yellowK20

    yellowK20 Well Lubricated Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    I run a 377 in my K10 it's awesome I have a forged crank 6" rods JE flat tops vortec heads crane energizer 272 duration .454 lift cam, crane rollertip rockers ,(USED)jesel belt drive, MSD Billet distributor,6AL box blaster ,2 coil and Msd plug wires ,Performer Rpm airgap intake ,1405 edelbrock carb. It's awesome but I think the next motor for this truck will be a 406 /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
     
  17. Langosta39

    Langosta39 1/2 ton status

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    For a work truck build a 496 dressed in aluminum and you will have a 600+ft/lb BB that weighs as much a 350 and will kill any of them.
     
  18. yellowK20

    yellowK20 Well Lubricated Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    I wish I could afford a set of aluminum heads for my bigblocks .Maybe someday /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
     
  19. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    That crank you posted is a "externally balanced" crank. You will need a new 400 flexplate and 400 dampner to use that crank.

    There are "internally balanced" cranks out there that you can use 350 flexplates and dampners with but they cost a bit more.

    The .125" fillets on the crank is a good thing...but you will have to buy special bearings to clear them.
     
  20. ntsqd

    ntsqd 1/2 ton status

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    How many realize that you can hit 377 cubes two ways ? One is the talked about 350 stroked 400 block. The other is a std bore 350 block with the 400 stroke.
    The std bore/400 crank option works pretty darn well too.
     

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