Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

383 Planning

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by BigBadBowTie, May 30, 2000.

  1. BigBadBowTie

    BigBadBowTie 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2000
    Posts:
    160
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    AZ
    Ok after my last post I've done some research. This is my plan. Looking for opinons on the parts, do you know of better ones? Money as always is a consideration, but I can't skimp to much. Anyway, looking for the most useable torque, preferably between Idle and 4000rpm. Here's the parts I'm gonna use.

    Chevy 350 4 bolt main
    Chevy 400 Crank & Rods
    Chevy Vortec Heads Part #12558060
    Chevy Camshaft 14097395
    Edelbrock Performer Vortec Intake Manifold Part #2116
    Quadrajet 650cfm
    Stock (reman) HEI distributer
    JBL Shorty Block Hugger Headers
    Hooker 2 1/2" Mandrell Bent Dual exhaust
    3 Chamber Flowmasters


    As for any parts not listed, pistons, rings, gaskets, they will all be quality parts yet to be determined. Fel-Pre, Sealed-Power , etc.

    I want 9:1 compression, And would love to see 400ft lbs of torque. Also I want to keep the HP & torque numbers as close as possible. It's my understanding that that makes for a better motor.

    Thanks for any help.


    Rick
    86 K-5
    http://www.coloradok5.com/RMcPherson.htm
     
  2. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    May 9, 2000
    Posts:
    8,126
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    FL
    I dont know what ignition upgrades you are planning, but I would can the HEI idea and go with an MSD billet dist. with a MSD ignition and coil. That will help fire your stroker!

    Mike
    82 GMC Jimmy "Emmett" "Built for function, not for beauty!"
    IN TOO DEEP Off-Road Club
     
  3. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    6,854
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    California (Modesto area)
    YUMMY
    Sounds as good as a ThanksGiving dinner[​IMG]
    i'm no expert on building a motor but I have heard a steel crank is the way to go instead of a forged one.
    The motor you have in this post is just about the same one I want except I would ditch the HEI and gofor MSD ProBillit 8360 with Edelbrock 750cfm Q-Jet.
    Deeelishus[​IMG][​IMG]I be losin it!

    Rock ON![​IMG] 72 K5 [​IMG] Led Zeppelin
     
  4. ken

    ken 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    1,244
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Anaheim, CA
    "Forged" and "steel" are one in the same. You either have a "forged steel" crank, or a "cast iron" crank. The steel ones are much stronger, and are NOT available in 400...so to make a 383 Chev you take a 400 CAST IRON crank and grind nearly 1/4" (.200") off the main journals to get it to fit into the 350 block. IMHO that is a GRENADE waiting to go off!!! There is a reason why the 400 mains are .200" larger than a 350s, it's called connecting overlap between the rod and main journals for strength. Grind it away from the main journals and you reduce the overlap, thus reducing the strength of the crank.

    ken
     
  5. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    6,854
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    California (Modesto area)
    Opps..My bad on the metal terms!![​IMG] sorry.
    Hey I thought they took metal off the block and not the crank to make it fit???? Or is it both need to be ground??
    What about the 383Crate is that a 350block gounded out?
    good stuff keep it comin.....

    Rock ON![​IMG] 72 K5 [​IMG] Led Zeppelin
     
  6. BigBadBowTie

    BigBadBowTie 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2000
    Posts:
    160
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    AZ
    Ok, good info provided by all. I'm going with a new scat crankshaft designed specifically for this application. I'm also useing Keith Black pistons designed to run on 350 rods in a 383 stroker. So yes I've changed my mind on the rods. Also currently looking into an Xtreme cam from competiton cams. Think I'll havg with the HEI for now, can alwasy update the igniton later. Here's current list.

    Chevy 350 4 bolt main
    Scat Crank (designed for 383 applications)
    Chevy 350 Rods
    Kieth Black Pistons
    Chevy Vortec L31 Heads Part #12558060
    Chevy Camshaft 14097395
    Edelbrock Performer Vortec Intake Manifold Part #2116
    Quadrajet 650cfm
    Stock (reman) HEI distributer
    JBL Shorty Block Hugger Headers
    Hooker 2 1/2" Mandrell Bent Dual exhaust
    3 Chamber Flowmasters

    Anybody have a web site for scat?


    Rick
    86 K-5
    http://www.coloradok5.com/RMcPherson.htm
     
  7. paul_cfh

    paul_cfh Registered Member

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2000
    Posts:
    82
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    OH (for school) NH to live
    are you going to use 5.7 inch rods or 6 inch rods

    [​IMG]<font color=blue>where the road ends the fun begins</font color=blue>[​IMG]
     
  8. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    6,854
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    California (Modesto area)
  9. BigBadBowTie

    BigBadBowTie 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2000
    Posts:
    160
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    AZ
    Chevy 350 4 bolt main
    Scat Crank (designed for 383 applications)
    Chevy 350 Rods (5.700")
    Kieth Black Pistons
    Chevy Vortec L31 Heads Part #12558060
    Chevy Camshaft 14097395
    Edelbrock Performer Vortec Intake Manifold Part #2116
    Quadrajet 650cfm
    Stock (reman) HEI distributer
    JBL Shorty Block Hugger Headers
    Hooker 2 1/2" Mandrell Bent Dual exhaust
    3 Chamber Flowmasters


    Rick
    86 K-5
    http://www.coloradok5.com/RMcPherson.htm
     
  10. jarheadk5

    jarheadk5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2000
    Posts:
    4,389
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    PA
    I think Summitt also has a forged crank built specifically for 383's (proper dimensions, proper metallurgy, etc.)

    [​IMG] Semper Maintenance!
     
  11. BlazerGuy

    BlazerGuy 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2000
    Posts:
    9,206
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    abcde
    Performance Automotive Warehouse has a lot of good performance parts. YOu can order a catalog at their site http://www.pawengineparts.com

    YEEE HAAWWW[​IMG]
     
  12. 73/75 k5

    73/75 k5 Registered Member

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2000
    Posts:
    38
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    ca
    Have you thought about the 383 from GM performance parts? Comes complete intake to pan, flex plate to water pump. You'll have a 12/12 warr. and comes with a roller cam and one piece rear main seal. Runs 9.1 to 1 c/r and puts out over 400 ft/lbs between 2500 to 4000. Comes with the vortec heads also. I wish I would have bought it instead of the zz4.
     
  13. nyyef

    nyyef 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    May 16, 2000
    Posts:
    479
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Saudi Arabia
    sounds like a plan.
    stick with the 350 rods. keith black pistons are great.
    by the way, i had a 383 about 10 years ago, and i ground down the journals of a 400 cast crank. i had no problems. it put out 400+hp and 400+lbft. and frequently saw 6500-7000 rpm. ran for 55,000 miles then i sold it. the guy who bought it ran it for another 17,000 miles before blowing it due to an oil pump failure.

    Knife.
     
  14. BigBadBowTie

    BigBadBowTie 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2000
    Posts:
    160
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    AZ
    Thought about the GM Crate HT383, but they want $2900 for it, I'm still getting this one built for less, with almost identical parts, I've been useing that motor as a referance. Still waiting to hear from Comp Cams, I need some cam input here. This is a daily driver that trailors about 5000-6000lbs from time to time. It goes on long trips, general all around use.

    Got to check the diff between 6.00" rods & 5.700", my builder says longer rods = longer engine life.

    Rick
    86 K-5
    http://www.coloradok5.com/RMcPherson.htm
     
  15. ken

    ken 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    1,244
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Anaheim, CA
    That Summit forged crank is like $550 though!! Might as well build a 400 Chev for cheaper. Ummm, lets see... cheaper, and more cubes = more power, uhhh...that's a tough one!!!

    ken
     
  16. BigBadBowTie

    BigBadBowTie 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2000
    Posts:
    160
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    AZ
    Not trying to be sarcastic here, just want to know. Doesn't a 383 Stroker put out more torque than a Small Block 400? I'm looking for lots o lots o lots of torque

    Rick
    86 K-5
    http://www.coloradok5.com/RMcPherson.htm
     
  17. ken

    ken 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    1,244
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Anaheim, CA
    Uhhh...NO!!! Think of it...same stroke between a 383 and 400...more bore with a 400...equals MORE TORQUE, MORE POWER, MORE EVERYTHING!!!! I have no idea why everyone is so "up in arms" over 383s, especially when you have to do custom machining (grinding .200" off the mains of the crank) to make it a SMALLER, LESS TORQUE AND HORSEPOWER engine than a 400...I just don't get it!!!

    ken
     
  18. Blazer1970

    Blazer1970 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    1,600
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Old Mission, MI
    I think people build the strokers because they already have the 350 parts. I assume that those aftermarket stroker crankshafts that you are looking at are internally balanced. Otherwise, or if you use a stock 400 crank, you have to use a 400 balancer, and flywheel/flex plate. If you add up the re-use of your 350 parts, the stroker is a cheaper way to go unless you already have a 400 laying around, or can find one cheap.

    Tim

    1970 Blazer CST 4X4 350 SM465 NP205
    1987 Suburban 4X4 350
    1988 Chevy Pickup 4X4 350
     
  19. Andreas

    Andreas 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    188
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Sweden
    First of all I´m glad to see you settled with a 650cfm carb. People tend to want 1150 cfm Holley Dominators when they rebuild their smallblocks. I dunno if you already have the old Rochester Q jet, or if you´re planning to buy an new Edelbrock Q jet ?? If a new one, then you could save a few bucks going with the "original" Edelbrock 650.

    Second of all......umm... I forgot....Oh yeah, get a sb400 in good condition if you can. It put´s out more torque than the 383 as it moves more air (actally, 400 cubic inches of it [​IMG]). The 400´s have their heat problems, which isn´t an issue if you have a 3-4 core radiator and a good waterpump. Spare parts is a b*tch for the 400´s, that´s the REAL downer. Harder to come buy, and more expensive.

    Third of all. I´m kinda like in your situation. I´m rebuilding my 406 from the bottom and up. I´m gonna spend some extra dough on ARP crank bolts and good gaskets. Things that many overlook, but not me...not this time. Other than that I´m going to rollerize everything I can afford. F.ex Roller rockers give you more accurate valve movement and reduce friction. Friction equals heat and that´s not good !! Then there´s rollerlifters. Easier on the cam and again, less friction. Now I´m babbeling again...I´ll stop now. Good luck!

    Andreas

    406cui of pure sh*t[​IMG]
     
  20. BigBadBowTie

    BigBadBowTie 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2000
    Posts:
    160
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    AZ
    Well the heat issue has been brought up by my engine
    builder on the 400. He also suggests that the torque differance would be negligable. Anyway because I do have a working (sorta) 350 now, we're going with the 383. The reasoning behind the new scat crank is simple, like some of you have pointed out it may not be a goos thing to grind down a 400 crank, the scat crank is machined from scratch as a 383 crank. In additon it will be cheaper or close to the same price, than finding a 400 carank then paying the shop to grind, balence, etc.

    I have a huge 4 core that was intended for a motorhome, it measures roughly 3" thick, 34" wide, 22" tall.

    My new motor will have ARP bolts & the best gaskets, not planning on roller rockers, however I do have a question are stock rockers 1.5?

    I am planning on a new "original" Q-jet not the performer, heard to many horror stories on that. But that leads to another question, for many reasons I am paying a shop to R/R the engine. The shop is trying to get me to allow him to clean up the original 795cfm vintage '86 q-jet and reusing it as opposed to a new 650. His reasoning is this; That is an electric carb, it has several leads to the front of it, that he would like to make operational again. My feelings are this, I've been running the current motor fro 6 years, with the check engine light removed, because it has no O2 sensor, no air pump, no air rails, EGR is still there but Lord only knows if the CPU is still fuctioning. I say it's not or it's not functioning proerly the truck runs rich. I say dump them last two wires & run a non electric 650, with an electric choke. Opinons?

    Well now I've rambled, talk to me people no comments on a CAM yet??

    Rick
    86 K-5
    http://www.coloradok5.com/RMcPherson.htm
     

Share This Page