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4 door cab

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by mpascino, May 28, 2001.

  1. mpascino

    mpascino 1/2 ton status

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    Does anyone know if I can mount a 4 door pickup cab on my '89 blazer frame

    You call that dirty!?
     
  2. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    im not sure but id like to see the pics if ya pull it off!ive seen reg truck cabs done,but never a 4 door.id assume it would work.all you can do is measure,then try it and hope![​IMG]

    PURE INSANITY
    86 blazer see it at:<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.zing.com/album/pictures.html?id=4292792569>http://www.zing.com/album/pictures.html?id=4292792569</A>
     
  3. i'm pretty sure you would have to make a custome tub and cut the rear doors to get it to work. might be hard to make a good seal when the door is closed after that. sure would be cool. you could maybe pull it off with a short bed frame. then make a custome flat bed for the back.

    78, 350/350/203, 3/4 ton, 4" lift, 35" BFGs
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://bluebeast.coloradok5.com/>http://bluebeast.coloradok5.com/</A>
     
  4. tori89k5

    tori89k5 1/2 ton status

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    ....wait a minute..... I saw one of those just the other day....
    ....think it said SUBURBAN on the back.....[​IMG]



    STOLEN '89 K5 - 4" lift. Found in Compton,
    stripped and dismantled.
    New Blazer on the way !!
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tori89k5.coloradok5.com>http://www.tori89k5.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  5. Jonathan

    Jonathan 1/2 ton status

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    I don't think it would work without fabrication. There's only about a foot of space between the door an the wheel well on my blazer. I think that the rear door on a four door cab is at least two feet wide.
     
  6. pcorssmit

    pcorssmit 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah, I've always kind of wanted to do this, but I think you'd have to radius the rear doors, like the new Tahoes. Might have a problem rolling the windows all the way down. Sure would be cool, though.

    Pete

    '83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
    '97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
     
  7. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Yeah I saw one on of all places Lower 2 at Tellico. It wasn't on a K5 but on a short bed frame. Thye had some serrious body lift on it to clear the frame and still hat to clip the rear of the cab. There are several problems that you will need to address. On the pickup frame these guys used the frame cumes up under the cab under the seat. On a Sub or a 3+3 cab the frame makes it's upward bend under the rear seat. A after 77 K5 frame would require the least attention here but your probably still looking 3-4 inch body lift. Then you really going to have to radius the doors in the back and some serious lift so you don't have to radius up to the seat.
    So in my opinion it wouldn't be worth trying on a "stock frame". What might be worth trying is to lengthen and box a frame. I would stay with a78 up K5 frame since it would be easier to leghten where you need and get the axle pushed back so you can eliminate the need to hack the back of the cab and all the issues that go with that. You would probably end up with a wheel base just shy of a Longbed regular cab. Bobb the crap out of it and a custom flat bed and it's doable. You could run either saddle tanks or mount a tank on the bed. WHile it would be wild looking your going to loose some break over angle with the extra lenght. I would say this would be a truck to go with 1 ton gear and 38's [​IMG]

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/>http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/</A>
     
  8. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    I had thought about this some too (among the many ideas on my K30). One thing that crossed my mind was taking a 4 door crew cab, welding the rear doors shut (too lazy to deal with keeping them functional but the room in back would be nice, I have 2 kids). Then, cut the Wheel tubs and about 3" of the rear quarters (around the wheel opening) off of a Blazer/Sub/Fleet bed. Then graft that into the rear cab corners, trimming and fitting into the door area as required. This would likely only use the front half of the wheel opening but it was adjustable since I will be modifying the frame. You could even use a bobbed bed back and wind up with a 2-3' bed welded in (no gap, like a Blazer) depending on the frame. Then, you would need to channel the rear cab floors to fit over the frame where it starts up over the rear axle somewhat like you do when "channel" the body over the frame (like the ultra lowered cars). Rear seats would probably sit about 4" higher than normal but that shouldn't be too bad.

    I rejected this idea as too much work and too heavy plus the sketches I did didn’t look right to me. Proportions were wrong and it did not work visually like I thought it would when I drew it more or less to scale.

    Bad Dog

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, NP205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Soon: 4" lift, 40" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  9. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Lot of work for sure! Welding the doors shut would sort of ruin the point and you might as well get a blazer. You are also right that that big old cab and a short bed or a short flat bed would look strange. Definate form follows function vehicle.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/>http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/</A>
     

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