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4" lift and 35's

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by nash69, Apr 11, 2002.

  1. nash69

    nash69 Registered Member

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    4\" lift and 35\'s

    Im building my blazer strictly for on road use. Will prob NEVEr take it offroad. Yes, this is dumb but hey i live in jersey. I'm planning on goin to a 4" lift MAX. will 35's be ok for on road use or will htey rub?
     
  2. Confederate9

    Confederate9 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4\" lift and 35\'s

    i got a 4in lift and 35s.... no rub
     
  3. rlhenry

    rlhenry Registered Member

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    Re: 4\" lift and 35\'s

    What size rims? When I was running 4" and 35 x 12.50's with 15 x 10 inch wheels, it didn't rub unless I hit a bump or hole hard with the wheels turned. Now with 5" of lift, 33 x 12.50's on 15 x 12.5, they rub all the time. For me, the width caused more rubbing than the height.
     
  4. loudnowlouder

    loudnowlouder 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4\" lift and 35\'s

    yeah the width is what will kill you..if you stay with 35*12.50's you'll be fine....i have the 35*15s and they hit a bit, had to do some minor fender trimming...
     
  5. GONZO2

    GONZO2 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4\" lift and 35\'s

    i have a 4" rough country lift and 35x12.5x15 mounted on 15x10 wheels and not even close to rubbing around town
     
  6. Batchman

    Batchman Registered Member

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    Re: 4\" lift and 35\'s

    I'm planning on 35's also was wanting to know if the type of lift matters ie suspension or body lift?
     
  7. Mreetz

    Mreetz 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4\" lift and 35\'s

    Go with suspension lift first, much fewer problems with that. I have a 4" suspension and 35x12.5 no rubbin at all.
     
  8. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Re: 4\" lift and 35\'s

    A body lift gives you no additional articulation and I would only go 1-3 inches for body lift (I would probably only go 2 unless custom with reinforcements around the body supports). With that being said it would be a combo (i.e. half body and half suspension) or total suspension lift. Going total suspension gives you more articulation and you don't have to bother with the body. You will need a steering arm (some lifts come with and some don't) and extended bump stops and brake lines (again some kits come with and some don't), and you can fab your own bumps stop extensions fairly cheaply/easily. You may also need 1 or both driveshafts lengthened and additional inch or two. With a body lift you have to adjust the steering shafts, make sure hoses and wires are long enough and have enough slack for flex and are out of harms way. Fan shroud mods and bumper mods to keep factory lines.
    Suspension lifts are more expensive and usually require driveshaft lengthening (for lifts 4" and above), but I believe are better/safer as long as steering geometry and brakelines are corrected. If you go with a body lift, it is a perfect time for replacing the stock body mounts (poly are a great choice).
     
  9. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Re: 4\" lift and 35\'s

    To the original post. A good (non-sagged) 4" lift and 35's should be fine for the street. An extreme wheel offset may pose a problem when cornering though, but for the most part you should be fine, just get a wheel with a "standard offset" and keep the tire width to ~12.5" or less. Hope this helps
     
  10. Batchman

    Batchman Registered Member

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    Re: 4\" lift and 35\'s

    Now do 12.5 have to be on 10 inch rims or can they go on 8s
     
  11. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4\" lift and 35\'s

    Go with a rough country lift and you will never rub. My buddies lifts tires before it rubs. He runs 4" lift and 35x12.50x15 on 12" wide wheels. I run 4" tuff country lift and run like crazy with 35x12.50x15 on 10" wide wheels. The reason is the tuff country suspension is so soft that it alows it to articulate alot. On my Suburban I have rubbed with 33s. It has a 4" Rancho lift. I run 33x12.5x15 on 10" wide wheels. But I am hard on my vehicles. It rubbed climbing up a car, but only after I was on the roof. The Jimmy another story since its a trail rig, they rub all the time. I am to lazy to cut the fenders.
     
  12. shane74

    shane74 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4\" lift and 35\'s

    They'll fit fine on 8's. As a former tire/wheel sales guy. If you put a 12.5 on a 10" wheel there is a chance of rubbing depending on the amount of wear and tear on your front suspension. They'll never rub in the rear unless you are seriously flexing it. If you go with an 8" wheel, the chances of rubbing are minimal. Slim to none if all you do is pavement pounding.
     
  13. rlhenry

    rlhenry Registered Member

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    Re: 4\" lift and 35\'s

    I've got the Tough Country 4" lift as well. With the axle swap, shims, extended shackles, and blocks I have something like 5 3/4" of lift. When I get full articulation with the wheels turned, they rub pretty good. As far as the fender trimming, I've only trimmed a little which stopped the rubbing when I had 10" rims. Once I went to the 12.5's, it started hitting again. What works best for a clean cut, a sawzall or a grinder with a cutting wheel? I don't want to butcher the fenders and I'd like to stay away from fender flares.
     
  14. chaka454

    chaka454 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4\" lift and 35\'s

    I have a 4" suspension and 2" body lift with 35's my tires were rubbing a little all I had to do was trim my feder abou 1/2" on each side and everything is smooth now no rubbing at all even offroading.
     
  15. ca89blazer

    ca89blazer Registered Member

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    Re: 4\" lift and 35\'s

    The key to the rubbing or not rubbing is the wheel size and back spacing. With my ten bolts and a 4 in lift I was rubbing my bfg at 35 but my rims were 15x12 with 3.5" back spacing and I rubbed til I cut out the finders. Now with a 3/4 ton dana 44 6-7 in lift up front my 35x14.5 boggers w/ 15x10 w/ 2.5" bs are rubbing again. I would either stick with a scok rim, go with 6 in lift or plan on triming
     

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