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4" lift steering

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 72beater, Apr 26, 2003.

  1. 72beater

    72beater 1/2 ton status

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    4\" lift steering

    I have read tons of posts on steering geometry for lifted first gens, but I have not seen the answer to my question, which is,

    is it ok to install my new 4" lift WITHOUT steering correction, and then see just how bad my steering woes are before attacking the steering component issue? I think I'll have some bump steer, but I want to see how much before I determine how to fix it. I also may do a cross over soon after the lift, so there's that to think about too. thanks!
    Ernest
     
  2. blazerboy72

    blazerboy72 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4\" lift steering

    I would lift it and see how it drives with aout the seering correction. I only have a 4" steering arm on mine with 8" of lift so you should be fine
     
  3. Topdown

    Topdown 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4\" lift steering

    most likely the reason you havent gotten a good/straight answer is that it will depend largely on what has been done to your vehicle in the past. I know on my 72, when I installed the lift I didnt need a new arm... but I also know that my drag link is not stock.

    So, they "recommend" adding the steering arm if you install a 4" lift. If you have stock equipment, I would install the new arm. cheap insurance to know that in a tight spot, everything will be working as expected.

    If you check out IGOR's pics, he has a pic of "the sweet spot" to hit the arm to get it off the knuckle.

    -Ryan /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  4. 72beater

    72beater 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4\" lift steering

    good info. Any good sources on arms for first gens? thanks
    Ernest
     
  5. Rusty68

    Rusty68 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4\" lift steering

    I have lifted 3 first generation trucks, 4 inch lifts on all of them. The 68 had a closed knuckle drum brake front and there were no steering arms available for it that I could find. Also the steering arm that was on that axle was closer to the steering box making the drag link angle even steeper then the later disc set-ups. The turning radius was terrible if I remember right it was while turning to the right side. The left was not so bad. I didnt have a problem with bump steer though. That was my first lifted ride so. I have since gone to disc brakes and took advantage of the raised steering arms that are available almost anywhere. This corrected the turning problems. I am not a fan of the blocks some people use under the steering arms. They seem like a cheaper alternative then the 50 bucks or so for the arm, but I think they add to much stress and leverage on the knuckle studs. I have just recently sheared the studs that hold the arm to the knuckle with a raised arm, so the block must amplify this. I guess to some up my long winded opinion, yes you can lift your rig without a raised arm and drive it. But you will be better off with the steering working at the angles it was ment to be at.
     
  6. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4\" lift steering

    I have a 4" lift and no "steering corection".
    I do have an adjustable drag link (stock) that is adjusted to get the same turning to both sides (when not flexed).

    I have not noticed much bump steer at all. Part of that has to do with the stiff Rancho springs I have up front.

    IMO 4" of "steering corection" is too much for a 4" lift. If you are going to do crossover leave it alown for now.
    If you are not going to do crossover I would use a drop pitman arm (they are about 2" of corection). I have talked to a few people that had 4" of corection with a 4" lift and had bump steer...I have also talked to one person that had a 4" lift w/ 4" steering arm, went to 6" lift and added a 2" pitman arm (6" total steering corection) and got alot more bump steer. He took off the pitman arm and the bump steer went away.
     
  7. JimmyUp

    JimmyUp Registered Member

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    Re: 4\" lift steering

    Hello there,

    I recently went from a 4-inch lift to a 6-inch kit. When I originally installed the 4-inch kit I did not have to do anything to my steering (i.e. no raised sterring arm and no drop pitman-arm). After going to the 6-inch kit i am having a terrible problem with bumpsteer and my next last resort will be to go over to crossover steering. If you are looking for any NEW steering components (adjustable draglink, drop pitman-arm or raised steering-arm) I'm your guy.

    Again, however, I did not have to do anything when I only went with 4-inches of lift.

    Good luck,
    Scott
     
  8. Roostr84

    Roostr84 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4\" lift steering

    Hey Scott,
    How did you make out with the 4wp's guys. Did they figure anything out on your problem?
     
  9. cleszkie

    cleszkie 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4\" lift steering

    I installed a 6" Superlift kit on my 72 K5. Rather than swap out the steering arm (which can be a real PITA to remove), I opted for the "Z" drag link. The link is tubular with approximately 4 inches of drop in it. Came with new ends too. No bump-steer, perfect steering geometry. Cost about $135. Same part number for 4" and 6" lifts.
     
  10. JimmyUp

    JimmyUp Registered Member

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    Re: 4\" lift steering

    Hello there,

    4WPS has had my truck for 3-weeks. The problem is that I am getting front to back axle movement as a result of my particular 6-inch lift configuration. Apparently, there is a stop bracket made out of steele on my frame that limits the amount of flex from the leaf springs. This bracket came factory on my vehicle and was designed to work with factory "non-arched" leaf springs. This is supported by the fact that OEM/factory leaf springs are actually inverted. I was even okay with this setup on my original 4-inch kit because the those leafs were only slightly arched. However, with the significant arch in the 6-inch springs the bracket is not able to restrict the flex/movement of the suspension. Further complicating my situation is that I opted "AND SPENT A PRETTY PENNY" on Skyjacker SoftRide springs. The spring rate on those puppies are so soft that the springs themselves flex considerably when I turn the tires. This is also contributing to the axle shift I get when pressure is put on the suspension via hitting a bump or when I turn my vehicle.

    The sitation is that my next step is to put a sway-bar on my rig (this should be done tomorrow). If that does not work but helps my current situation, i will then opt to go with a stiffer front leaf spring (i.e. SuperLift). If that then gets me closer but not far enough to where my 72 Jimmy is safe to drive I had to eat the cost of all my updated steering components and go with crossover steering.

    I am getting frusterated and my time and dinero is running out on this project. Lastly, i have two weekends to get it sorted out as i have to be ready for a trip to the sand dunes at Moses Lake by Memorial Day weekend.

    I'll keep you posted and thanks for asking...!

    --Scott
     
  11. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4\" lift steering

    Have you not taken off that stupid bracket (the one behind the springs on the driver side) off yet?

    BTW: it was not on there from the factory. It was a recall. It was put there along with a strap on the front driver side spring hanger. It was there so you would keep your steering if the front spring eye bolt broke. With lift springs in it is just in the way.
     
  12. 72beater

    72beater 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4\" lift steering

    i was wondering what that hack job bar stock was on my spring hanger...ah well, off it goes, too.
     

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