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4 more stupid questions!

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by K5XLR8R, Jan 29, 2001.

  1. K5XLR8R

    K5XLR8R 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, it turns out the '86 deisel I bought is actually an '83 so, will the seats still fit into and '86?? the ones in the '83 are lower to the floor than the 86 seats wich have a sort of metal frame...if anyone knows or has any input it would help.
    question #2
    Does anyone else's oil pressure guage drop to about 10 psi when just idleing??? Mine will have normal pressure and then it seems like once the oil has warmed up it gets jumpy...just wondering if maybe the oil pump is going out...and how would I know if it was.
    Question #3
    Whats a good price for a '83 Deisel w/ 165,000 miles....I know these things were the worst built Deisels....so I'm not looking for a fortune...
    Question #4
    First thing in the morning when going to work and I'm backing out of the driveway whenever I go from reverse to drive there seems to be a lag with the trans. and the engine will rev, then sort of "catch" and drive fine......just wondering if this stall is a sign of something to come.....
    thanks all!

    <P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by K5XLR8R on 01/29/01 05:13 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
     
  2. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    To answer the oil pump question: oil pumps are two gears that mesh together. As the clearances get looser and looser, the pump becomes less efficient. Much more likely is the fact that the engine tolerances themselves are loose now that the motor is older, and/or the gauge is not reading correctly. I have yet to see an oil pump that was actually out of "spec" when pulled and mic'ed froma motor. Haven't done a whole lot of them, but I don;t think its real likely anyways, since they are submerged in oil 100% of the time. (ideally)

    Dorian
    My K5 and Chev/Olds tech/links page: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://yeagerd.home.mindspring.com/index2.html>http://yeagerd.home.mindspring.com/index2.html</A>
     
  3. Pugsley

    Pugsley 1/2 ton status

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    As for your seat question, they should drop right in. I've got seats out of a 79 in my 85. As for the rest, I can't be much help, sorry!
     
  4. Ryan

    Ryan Registered Member

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    I will have to agree with yeager on the oil pump. Oil is thicker when cold, hence higher oil pressure. The bearings get worn, the oil heats up, and there goes your pressure. Depending on where you live, put 20w50 or 30 weight in it. I have a 1983 305 with 294,000 original miles-smokes like a train, but I can't kill it with 20w50 in it. I believe an engine only has to have about 4-5 pounds of oil pressure to run. However, I don't know much about diesels. As for the tranny, I think the 700r4 was introduced in 1983. If I remember correctly, on a 700r4, reverse runs from the same clutch pack as second gear. Does it slip at low speeds going into second? The 83-85 700's were sorry (I've had three in five years before going to an 1986 tranny). If you replace it, go with an 86-up model with 31 spline input shaft. Also, you may want to check your TV cable (the one on the truck) I adjusted mine and got about another year before my first tranny rebuild.
     
  5. Ryan

    Ryan Registered Member

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    Oh yeah,one more thing - Check your tranny fluid level first!
     
  6. Panther

    Panther 1/2 ton status

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    Like Ryan said, check your tranny fluid level.

    Also, check the dip stick sometime when the truck (motor & tranny) is warm. Look for water droplets (condensation) on the upper part of the dipstick. If you get water in your tranny fluid, the clutch packs start to seperate and you get bad shifting.

    I had water in mine and although I flushed it, I still get the same lag when its cold.

    <font color=blue>"It's just a differentialator....Totally unnecessary" [​IMG]</font color=blue>
     
  7. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I have a rear seat from a '90 Jimmy in my 81 Jimmy. It bolted right up.
    I believe rule of thumb on oil pressure is 10 psi for every 1000 RPM. That would be a minimum. My friend replaced his oil pump on a 200,000 mile 4.3 and it made a good difference in pressure. It used to make about 10 at idle and 30 max, after the new oil pump was installed it made 15-17 at idle and 45 max. They do wear, just like any moving part, submerged in oil or not. He had the pan off anyways doing some other repairs, an oil pumps are cheap so it made sense to do it.
    As for a good price on an 83 Blazer with a deisel? I think general condition is more important to most people, the deisel isn't really an issue because some people prefer the deisel, and some people will swap it out no matter how good it is. Don't sell the truck short because of the deisel.

    Rene

    [​IMG]
     
  8. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Most aftermarket oil pumps either boost pressure or volume, either will make a difference on a worn motor. Shimming the stock pump spring will increase pressure just the same. Does not alleviate the bearing clearance problem, just masks it better. Saying they wear out is like saying low gear in an SM465 wears out. Relatively straight cut, hardened gears, constantly lubricated, are going to be extremely hard to wear out. The plate that retains the oil gears is what typically gets chewed into, moreso than the gears. Thats how wear in the pump is actually measured if I remember correctly.



    Dorian
    My K5 and Chev/Olds tech/links page: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://yeagerd.home.mindspring.com/index2.html>http://yeagerd.home.mindspring.com/index2.html</A>
     
  9. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Dorian, I understand what you're saying. All the same my friend did not buy an aftermarket high-volume or high-pressure pump. He bought a stock replacement. So bearings and crank journals don't wear? The oil pump can and does wear just like every other part in the botom end, because of contaminents in the oil and viscous breakdown due to those contaminents and heat.
    This 4.3 is completely stock and oil pressure was observed with the engine completely warmed up to operating temperature, using the very same mechanical oil pressure guage for before and after the oil pump change. The oil pressure did not return to new condition readings, indicating that the clearances in the bottom end are sloppier than when it was new (duh! [​IMG]) but the oil pressure did improve.


    By the way, I have those pics of my buddy's truck with the 33x9.50 MT's on it. I'll send you a p/m with the link.

    Rene

    [​IMG]
     
  10. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Oh no...bearings are an entirely different story. They are made to be "sacrificial". Gears are not designed that way. I would never say bearings don't wear. Gears wear too, but just to a much less amount under normal circumstances. Hey if it worked for him fine, but if it was me, and I was having bad oil pressure, I'd re-bearing the bottom end while I was down there. The oil pumps ARE cheap enough to replace at the same time. I'd like to see those pics : )

    Dorian
    My K5 and Chev/Olds tech/links page: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://yeagerd.home.mindspring.com/index2.html>http://yeagerd.home.mindspring.com/index2.html</A>
     
  11. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    He wasn't about to open another can of worms entirely by replacing the bearings in the bottom end. I guess the miniscule amount of wear on the oil pump was enough to make a difference in observed pressure when a new one was installed.
    We're splitting hairs here [​IMG] I'll just send the link.

    Rene

    [​IMG]
     
  12. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    I'm just glad to hear about a 4.3 that has 200K on the clock! [​IMG] The one in my S-10 has "only" 122K and still seems to be running strong. (Well, as strong as a 4.3 can run at 6-7,000 feet above sea level). [​IMG] It's been paid off for almost 7 years, so I'll keep driving it until it has nothing left to give! [​IMG]

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com>http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com</A>
     
  13. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Its got almost 230,000 miles on it now and still running great! The only problem he's had has been head gaskets, but his heater core went and it overheated. That was when he had the pan off. He is very good with his maintenance and doesn't run the crap out of it, so that has something to do with it I'm sure. His father is the same way and got 284,000 miles out of a 350 in a big old 73 Bel air. That motor ticked when he bought the car with 12,000 miles on it in '75, and the day a rod went through the side of the block it still had the original lifters and all in it. The only internal part ever changed in over 280,000 miles was one rocker arm.
    Oh yeah, my buddy's 4.3 is in his work truck.

    Rene

    [​IMG]
     
  14. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    That's cool! The heater core in mine had a very tiny leak for several years. It would puff some steam out of the vents occasionally, with that anti-freeze smell. Last year it finally started to show a drip or two in the cab, so I installed a new core. What a pain in the @$$. Also had to replace the a/c compressor at 100K miles, but it spent those miles in Houston, where you have to run the a/c almost 365 days a year, so I couldn't complain that it finally gave up!

    Last week I had to replace the hoses that run from the block adaptor up to the remote oil filter. Of course the part is only available from GM and cost $80. At least it isn't leaving oil drips in the driveway any more! [​IMG] Changing that assembly was no fun. I think they hang that part from the ceiling and then build the rest of the truck around it. [​IMG] Had to jack up the motor about a half inch or so to get clearance to finagle the old part out and the new one in.

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com>http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com</A>
     
  15. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Hehee, the joys of working on an S-10! I always wondered how those thing went together at the factory! There sure isn't much thats easy to fix or replace on them. I think you might have figured out the truth to their assembly procedure![​IMG]

    Fortunately my buddy's 4.3 is in a full size 89 C1500, there's lots of room everywhere on that one![​IMG]

    Rene

    [​IMG]
     
  16. MACK5

    MACK5 Registered Member

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    HarryH3, I am having the same problem with my blazer with the occasion puff of smoke out the vent. Did this only happen to you when the heat was on. I do not have a coolant leak inside the cab, so I'm thinking it is a small leak. Any suggestions?
     
  17. Panther

    Panther 1/2 ton status

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    Not to be off-topic, but my good old GM V6 2.8L in my Sonoma is a beast. I have beat the living sh!t out of it for 100,00 miles. It still runs strong at 122,000 miles total. Thank God I don't have a tach cause I don't even wanna know how many times I have red lined it dropping it into 3rd on the highway at 65 MPH or taching it off the line to race somebody. Wow I was stupid....wait a minute I guess I still am [​IMG].

    <font color=blue>"It's just a differentialator....Totally unnecessary" [​IMG]</font color=blue>
     
  18. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Mack5, I could smell the antifreeze when mine would let out a steam puff. It went 2-3 years like that before it started to drip into the cab. The heater core is cheap, under $30. Changing it was a royal pain-in-the-@$$. It helps to be double jointed. [​IMG]

    Panther, a 2.8? (Insert screams of anguish here) [​IMG] Those poor things can't get out of their own way up here. They were weak at sea level, they're just pathetic at 6500 feet above sea level. [​IMG] GM sells a 3.4 liter replacement engine now. It's supposed to bolt right into where a 2.8 came out of. [​IMG]

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com>http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com</A>
     
  19. Panther

    Panther 1/2 ton status

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    I have never had any complaints about the 2.8. It's only 2wd so it doesn't see much off-road. I've only been stuck in it twice. Once in a sand pit (knew I'd get stuck) and once I got nudged off the road into a snow bank.

    I also didn't go around picking races with camaros and Pony GTs either. I know how to pick my winnable races [​IMG].

    Of course it's not gonna perform like a 4.3 or even the 3.4. It's just physics (F=ma), but honestly if I had the 4.3 in it when I turned 16, I probably wouldn't be here right now [​IMG] .

    And even more off topic, after I get my 74 K5 klunker [​IMG] fixed up and running, I wanna do the V8 conversion on the old sonoma anyway. Maybe it's just a poor excuse to keep it forever, but hey ya gotta do whucha gotta do.

    <font color=blue>"It's just a differentialator....Totally unnecessary" [​IMG]</font color=blue>
     
  20. MACK5

    MACK5 Registered Member

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    HarryH3, Thanks for the infor, because it sounds like my 91 has the same problem. I plan to change the core. Thanks again.
     

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