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4 or 6" lift, 33's or 35's, 6 or 8 bolt - Please Help

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by swamp donkey, Jun 2, 2002.

  1. swamp donkey

    swamp donkey 1/2 ton status

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    4 or 6\" lift, 33\'s or 35\'s, 6 or 8 bolt - Please Help

    Okay - My truck (a 69) has a four inch lift now, with 1/2 ton 6 bolt axels. I am redoing the drivline and tryin to make the right descions (for once).
    My truck is at a shop, and in talking to the owner he says I should keep the 6 bolt stuff and run some 33's (by keeping the 6 bolt, he means replacing the old with some better off used 6 bolt stuff he has). He says 6 bolt stuff will not last with 35's and if I REALLY want to run 35's I need to upgrade to 8 bolt and get a new 6" lift.
    I am not going to use this truck for hard core rock climbing, mostly daily driver, and maybe some sand. I am afriad that 33's just don't LOOK cool enough and that I need 35's to be manly. I have regretted almost every descion I have made about this truck, so I am asking for your help on this one. What should I do? How big of a difference ( visually ) are 35's and 33's. I don't have extra money (who does) to spend on something I don't need, but I also don't want to build a truck I am unhappy with.
    If you have pictures of your truck with either of these setups include a link so I can sheck it out. Thanks so much guys, maybe one day I can answer a question for ya'll. - Dylan
     
  2. lukefalls

    lukefalls 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4 or 6\" lift, 33\'s or 35\'s, 6 or 8 bolt - Please Help

    Well, you have some very good questions. The look of 35s v 33s in not too noticable. I can see a difference, but not enough to call someone less of a man for it. I am an advocate of larger tires though. I have a 71 GMC that i just upgraded to eight lug. I ran six lug and 35 MTs for a long time without any problems. In fact I went through the rubicon with bad front axel u-joints and didn't break anything. Now if you're in sand, you're less likely to break anything unless you have gobs of horsepower and agressive tires (more agressive than the average 35" MT). Sand is a lot more forgiving than rocks and hardpack or mud. Now keep in mind that that has a lot to do with your driving style and how much you like the "go pedal." I have seen someone break an anvill in a sandbox, if you know what I mean. If you plan on taking you rig airborn, seriously conside 8 lug for the increased housing strength. Eight lug is more expensive and you could me limited on wheel and tire combos because of larger brakes. I don't think that'd you'll have any problems running 35s on six lug axels for what it sounds like your plans are, but I don't know how you drive. I have been on paved roads, and spinning all four wheel without breaking stuff, but that is not recommended. You can get rough with six lug, but don't be stupid (like me spinning all four on paved roads). Also if you are interested in six lug, offroad design makes all sorts of parts to increase strength as well. Good Luck. NO matter what decision you make, you'll be happy. I was.
     
  3. lukefalls

    lukefalls 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4 or 6\" lift, 33\'s or 35\'s, 6 or 8 bolt - Please Help

    More info...a four inch lift is less expensive (though not by much) than a six and seems to have less driveline and steering problems. This depends on your rig too. I have a 71 long bed, so driveline angles aren't too big of a problem. I dodn't touch either of my drive lines (acutally later I did cause if hge flex). after i lifted it. Potentially, 4 inch spring are softer than six because of less arch. This is not always the case. I have skyjacker softride six inch springs and it is softer than most of the four inch lifted truck I have been in. Four inches seems to be more popular due to the lower center of gravity. To clear the 35s with a four, cutting fenders has become quite popular. I don't like to cut my baby. I don't think the two inches makes a huge difference, but I wouldn't want to find out the hard way. I can't find any huge agruement for a six inch lift, other than if you do like to cut, you can clear a larger tire if you want. I like the look of my rig and would rather not cut it anywhere. Good luck in you decisions.
     
  4. mudhog

    mudhog THEGAME Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Re: 4 or 6\" lift, 33\'s or 35\'s, 6 or 8 bolt - Please Help

    i have a 77 blazer and had half ton stuff 12bolt rear dana 44 front i broke my rear ring and pinion on the street right after i got it with 33's (but i think it was damaged when i got it /forums/images/icons/frown.gif ) i had it rebuilt with new gears and a posi unit put in did fine for about the first year then was playing in the sand climbing a hill and downshifted from 3rd to 2nd (manual sm465) and shaterd my rear ring and pinion and put 8 holes through the dif cover lol so in my opinion i would atleast do a 14ff or 14sf(6lug if you can find one) a 14ff can be had for around $100 or so and a detroit for the 14ff is only $300 vs the $500 for a 14sf or 12bolt now as far as lift if you dont mind triming fenders then go with the 4in lift and 35's or 36's if you dont want to trim go with the 6in lift i like small lift and big tires to keep the enter of gravity down i am running a 2.5in lift with 38x13x16in tsl swampers /forums/images/icons/smile.gif you can see pics of my blazer with no lift and 33's and now with the 38's in my webshots album link in my tag line at the botom of this post /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  5. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4 or 6\" lift, 33\'s or 35\'s, 6 or 8 bolt - Please Help

    For a daily driver keep the lift low (4" or less). Put the biggest tires in it that you want (33's = little or no trimming...35's = alot of trimming).
    I would just beef up the 1/2 ton stuff to make it handle the abuse of jumping. Truss, larger spindle studs, posi front and rear, nice springs and shocks.
     
  6. Steve_Chin

    Steve_Chin 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4 or 6\" lift, 33\'s or 35\'s, 6 or 8 bolt - Please Help

    Speaking of larger studs, anyone got a part number and manufacturer for 1/2"-20 studs for the front axle? I'm planning on converting my studs to 1/2" all the way around...
     
  7. bUrLyBlAzEr89

    bUrLyBlAzEr89 Registered Member

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    Re: 4 or 6\" lift, 33\'s or 35\'s, 6 or 8 bolt - Please Help

    i got a 89 blazer and have 33s under it and harldy ever rub in sand with a stock lift
     
  8. Rasberry

    Rasberry 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4 or 6\" lift, 33\'s or 35\'s, 6 or 8 bolt - Please Help

    I'm running 6 inch with 35's which you can check out on my site. Four inch lift is much cheaper. You don't need new drive shafts and you can put blocks in rear which are cheaper than new springs and I hear they give more of a factory ride. If you don't have that much money to spend stick with the 4". You could always us a body lift to get the extra clearance for 35's so you don't have to do any cutting. I'm running 12 bolt rear and 44 front 3.73 gears. In the past 4 years I've been offroading with it I haven't broken any axle componets yet, but i've lost one gear box and one tranny and the axles held up. I take that back I did lose one u-joint, but it was 30 years old what do you expect. Remeber you need to do what makes you happy.
     
  9. chulisohombre

    chulisohombre 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4 or 6\" lift, 33\'s or 35\'s, 6 or 8 bolt - Please Help

    my truck is also a daily driver.ive already grenaded one 12 bolt and my second one i dont know how long it will last.i have not wheeled it since i blew up my first 12 bolt.i cant be without my daily driver.next week hopefully i will be doing my 14bff conversion and front hub change to 8 lug.just waiting on the rest of the parts to come in the mail and also find tires and wheels.then i will hopefully not break anything anymore. /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif oh yeah i run 35's with 4 inch lift.the tires stuff pretty well in my fenderwells with no trimming.i wont know until i get the 3/4 ton setup in if this will still be the case.
     
  10. Chris_T

    Chris_T 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4 or 6\" lift, 33\'s or 35\'s, 6 or 8 bolt - Please Help

    I ran 4" of lift with 35's and the rear wheels hit while wheeling .. I was running 15x8 steel wagon wheels with 3.5" backspacing (I think) .. with 15x10's and a 6" front/8"rear lift I have no problem at all and I'm running on a D44/12 bolt with 4.56s daily and have no problem
     
  11. Scorpion

    Scorpion Registered Member

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    Re: 4 or 6\" lift, 33\'s or 35\'s, 6 or 8 bolt - Please Help

    6" softride with 35" tires. Get the system with the rear springs too! I have had it in my Blazer for almost 7 years now and it still doesn't sag and rides like a dream. I have had many friends tell me that they can't believe how smooth the ride is and, each of them wishes, to this day, that their rig rode like mine. With 35's, there's plenty of clearance no matter how much you twist them up.

    I have a 3/4 t Dana 44 up front (8 lug) and corp 14 rear. This all came about when my 12bolt granaded itself while driving on the street. 12 bolts are not strong enough no matter who sets the gears up, no matter how often you service them, and it doesn't matter if you have 33's or 35's. The front is a straight swap and the rear would just need the spring pirches relocated.

    I don't work for a 4x4 shop or Softride, I couldn't care less what brand I buy, but if you want best bang for your buck, go with a 6" softride and 35's. Looks sweat, gives enough altitude without having to jump in, and has an overall awesome ride!
     

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