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4" or 6"

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by k5_beater, Jun 12, 2002.

  1. k5_beater

    k5_beater Registered Member

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    4\" or 6\"

    i am stuck on how high to go. is there going to be more problems associated with the 6 than the 4 and problems like what? i have some 35x12.5 MTRs to put on and my ride is a daily driver with occasinal off road. i would appreicate any advice, thanks.
     
  2. shane74

    shane74 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4\" or 6\"

    Go 6" if you're running 35's. Especially if you are running them on 10" wheels and don't want to have to trim your fenders. The cost isn't much more, but IMO the benefits of going 6" right off the bat are huge. There are many people on this forum who have lifted their rigs 4" put 35's on, and then had to put on a body lift because the tires rub. Even though you are only an occasional wheeler, I'd still go with the 6". If you are putting the 35's on an 8" wheel, then you may be OK with a 4" but you still might rub some.
     
  3. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Re: 4\" or 6\"

    I went 4" and still regret it. Now I'm adding a body lift because it's too expensive to go with a 6" suspension and I am already going to have the body off.
     
  4. 85HeartBurb

    85HeartBurb 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4\" or 6\"

    i ran into the same dilema when choosing a lift i wound up choosing the 6" and i am running 35's on a ten inch rim no rubbing and yes i wheel it i could not be happier that i went with six even though down the road i'm going to put 38's with some fender trimming!!! just my opinion!!
     
  5. chvyhs

    chvyhs 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4\" or 6\"

    Go 6" all the way. I think it leaves more open for you later. If you decide to go with bigger tires later you'll be glad you got the bigger lift.
     
  6. muddysub

    muddysub 1 ton suburban status Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

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    Re: 4\" or 6\"

    nothing wrong with a little saws-all work /forums/images/icons/wink.gif /forums/images/icons/wink.gif /forums/images/icons/wink.gif /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  7. trailblazer87

    trailblazer87 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4\" or 6\"

    I've got a 4" and 33's, when I move to 35" I'm just going to trim the fenders.
     
  8. MudbogAD

    MudbogAD 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4\" or 6\"

    I've got an old 2.5 with a 3" body lift. I think I'm gonna run a 6" with it because I want 39.5's. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  9. tomseviltwin

    tomseviltwin 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4\" or 6\"

    I've got 33's on stock, and minimal rub. I think I'll go six inches and run 37+ /forums/images/icons/blush.gif

    tom
     
  10. BlazingItaly

    BlazingItaly Registered Member

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    Re: 4\" or 6\"

    I'm in the same dilemma, but my q is what would be the side work going 6" instead of 4".
    Tcase drop, drag link, brake lines, etc.

    Thanks for any input
    Luca
     
  11. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    Re: 4\" or 6\"

    Personally, I like 4" of lift w/35's. But you will need to plan on cutting the fenders if you want the axle to move. I needed to trim the back of the front fenders a little, a 4" raised steering arm and lowered the x-fer case 1" to drive on the street. To go off-road I needed to cut the front fenders alot (swaybar disconnected), new break lines front & rear and a new front driveshaft, It also would benifet from longer front shackels & better shock mounts, but I have not gotten to that yet. So you will need the same stuff either way. My advice to anyone trying to decide between 4" & 6" of lift w 35s is decide how much of the body you are willing to cut. BTW, cutting new rust-free sheet metal is much more fun than cutting old rusted junk.
     
  12. Mudstud

    Mudstud 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 4\" or 6\"

    I went 6" and glad I did. I only have 33s but still can rub the fenders even though they have been mildly trimmed. I have a 76 K5. The lift and some things I ran into on the install are outlined in my signature link below.
     
  13. k5_beater

    k5_beater Registered Member

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    Re: 4\" or 6\"

    doest not look that bad mudstud. what kind of drive line issues am i going to have to conquer?
     
  14. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Re: 4\" or 6\"

    Don't worry about it. Whether you go 4 or 6, you'll need driveshafts replaced one day anyway. If you need them now, they'll get done now, otherwise, they'll get done soon enough.

    Like me...went 4" and never replaced driveshafts. Now I'm going 5+3 and changing tranny/transfer and need them anyway. Instead of going cheap, I'm just going to get a 1350 CV rear now as opposed to spending $200 on a u-joint shaft that I'll throw away when I go bigger.
     

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