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4 wheel disk low buck mod.. in progress

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by BigMac, Nov 10, 2002.

  1. BigMac

    BigMac 1/2 ton status

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    So... I like so many have installed a disk break 14 bolt. With the new breaks came poor performance. Very spongy and no real hookup.

    I have decided to pull out my praportioning valve completely.. I believe my problems are caused by the praportioning valve. I am hoping thhey are caused by the praportioning valve anyway.. I tied to upgrade my hydrolics to one tone but nothing was compatable..

    So after much consideration I decided to make the mod that would most increase the amount of fluid being pumped on the cheapest budget. I just got rained out and am unable to get the breaks blead.... my helper say no way in hell too muddy something ...

    Without bleeding anything I already have a much more solid pedle feel.

    I'll see if a can talk her into helping when the rain dies down..my helper that is..

    /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  2. BigMac

    BigMac 1/2 ton status

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    So thats what its like haveing brakes again.

    I managed to hire a 25lb. weight to help me bleed the brakes. It is a very slow meathod at best...
    My front brakes are not the best o begin with.. they are very glased.. I have new rotors waiting to go on right now..

    the brakes are still a bit spongy .. but holy cow. I can actually cause my front suspension to compress again under braking.
    Im going to have a buddy help me do a beter bleeding job next week..

    All this cost me so far is about 8 bucks. By far the biggest improvment in my brakes yet. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  3. 4X4HIGH

    4X4HIGH 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Martin, I think you are going to have problems by removing your proportioning valve.
     
  4. jc71355

    jc71355 1/2 ton status

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    Won't that make the rear lock up too quickly/easily?
     
  5. Chris Demartini

    Chris Demartini 1/2 ton status

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    <font color="blue">I've been thinking of just replacing the factory proportioning valve with a Willwood adjustable valve for each circuit on the master cylinder when I go to regular front calipers instead of the caddy ones. Has anyone done this?

    I have the stock 71 master, booster and prop valve with eldorado calipers and I can lock up the rears, but not without a lot of brake dive. I think it would stop better with a little less fluid to the front and a little more to the rear /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  6. BigMac

    BigMac 1/2 ton status

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    so far the rear dont lock up at all.
     
  7. BigMac

    BigMac 1/2 ton status

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    maybe. I already had big problems with the valve. I can add a valve inline if necessary.
    Its wet out and I cant get the tires locked up. I can actually make my tree strap fall on the floor though /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

    So far all I've ost is the dash light that only confirms what your foot is already telling you.
     
  8. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    I just installed Discs this weekend. Truck stops and I can lock the rears but the peddle feels like crap.
    How did you bypass the PV?, What size fittings did you need if you did it that way?
     
  9. Thumper

    Thumper 1/2 ton status

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    Beats me what size I used, but when I yanked my PV, I took it and a chunk of line and sat on the floor in my local NAPA store for 20 minutes trying to fit enough together to make a leakproof setup! The counter clerks were laughing their a$$es off at me, but they are used to me coming in and building stuff off the shelf by now! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    Good luck,
    Mike
     
  10. efilnikufecin

    efilnikufecin 1/2 ton status

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    i just read a article in peterson's 4wheel about 4 wheel disc conversions.they say to eliminate the stock PV run the front right off the master cylinder(no PV) and install a after market PV to adjust the pressure to the rears.i have not tried this yet but seems to be a logical solution.
     
  11. BigMac

    BigMac 1/2 ton status

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    I just cut the end that was plugged into the master cylinders front fitting to the valve.. then I cut the little one off the line out of the valve.. I dropped the larger fitting onto the front line and re-flared the tubing. THe rear lines fitting is the same on the master cylinder as it in on the vlave so it drops right in.

    I did have to free up some brake line from the frame..

    I cant wait to get a good bleed on these brakes.
     

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