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400 rebuild!

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Mreetz, Mar 25, 2002.

  1. Mreetz

    Mreetz 1/2 ton status

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    Lookin for a reputable engine shop in the Denver area. Also, any suggestions or ideas to get me some torque outta this power plant.

    Thanks, Martin--
     
  2. Mr.Chevy4x4

    Mr.Chevy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    I don't know a builder in Denver, but I do have some input for the 400 build.
    IMHO I would go .030 over-bore with vortech heads and a dual pattern cam with about 214 degrees duration on the intake and 224 on the exhaust with around .460 lift. This combination should be a tire shredder for sure! Good luck and I hope this helps.

    Mike
     
  3. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    What are you building for, street / rock climbing / mudding / towing? I recently finished my 400 with a focus on street economy & rock climbing since all the good spots to 4x4 are a long drive for me. I'm quite satisfied with the result (rare as I'm always looking for an excuse to upgrade). Anyway, maybe I can help you eliminate or make choices toward what your after.
     
  4. Mreetz

    Mreetz 1/2 ton status

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    I'll be needin it on the streets too, mostly mountain climbin maybe mud once in a while. Thanks for the help all!
     
  5. denver75k5

    denver75k5 1/2 ton status

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    Ive heard real good things about the Comp 4x4 extreeme cam.
     
  6. Mreetz

    Mreetz 1/2 ton status

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    Hey Denver75!! How've you been??!?!
     
  7. denver75k5

    denver75k5 1/2 ton status

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    Good, just ben workin on the Blazer trying to get it ready for the season, hey by the way, do you need a carb for that 400? i have an extra Edelbrock 750 just laying around. I just put fuel injection on mine so i wont need that anymore.
    Anyway we gotta get you out wheelin sometime! A few of us from CK5 are heading up to Hacket this Saturday if your intrested.

    C-ya
    TJ.............
     
  8. Mreetz

    Mreetz 1/2 ton status

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    The 750 is a good idea, I've got an old Rochester that I was plannin on tearin down for this 400. I do need to get out with you guys and find some places to go. The way you all tear things up tho..... not too sure. I need this car on Monday!!

    Thanks again.
     
  9. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    what tranny? what gear ratio?
     
  10. Mreetz

    Mreetz 1/2 ton status

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    Right now its, stock. I have a gear ration of 3:73s in the differential, hopin to change that to 4:11 or :53 in the future. I guess this is where I need all opinions. Can't spend a fortune on this either.
    thanks.
     
  11. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    I'm running the Comp 4x4 Extreme cam #12-231-2
    http://www.compcams.com/catalog/078_079.html
    and I'll most likely upgrade to the #12-409-8 retrofit roller now that I'm smogged. The first of the two has tremendous bottom end, a smooth idle, great gas mileage (15 mpg on a 415ci). I'm very pleased with my choice. If you have the cash Mreetz, you might consider the retro roller which will provide all of the above and more.
     
  12. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    If your looking to build budget I'd build for longevity and bottom end. Stick with small runner dual plane intake and small valve heads to increase your throttle response, build vacuum and thus bottom end. If you think your gonna build a bit more extreme in the future, you can go with a larger valve head now and sacrifice just a little bottom end in the meantime. Roller rockers are nice but you can get away with the stock rockers at first, definately replace your pushrods with a good set. Look into a low stall as opposed to high stall torque convertor or just go with the stock one to keep the heat down and make sure you get an external tranny cooler. The Comp 4x4 cams are great and I'd look into those that make power from 800 to 5500 range. They have inexpensive kits with lifters for the non retro roller cams. A good set of Hyperuetectic pistons like the Keith Black and a compression ration between 9 and 9.5 to 1 so you can still tune it to run on regular unleaded if you want. If your not looking at pushing it above 5500 rpm then you can do just fine on a cast crank and stock rods but I would get them heat treated and shot peened for some added peace of mind. A good high volume oil pump is also good and since you wont be running above 5500 then you don't have to worry about it sucking the pan dry. If you do, then get a good extra capacity oil pan, crank scraper and windage tray. I've always liked the true double roller timing chains with steel gears instead of the gear drive. I've read the gear drives transfer vibrations from the crank to the cam which can prematurely wear bearings, but I've never experienced that. I also used a roller cam button but its not neccesary unless you go roller cam. This alone should build a tremendous amount of torque for you, as a base line and allow upgrading things liek the HEI, headers, alternator... etc at a later time.

    But first and formost, find a good local machine shop and get that block cleaned, magnafluxed and checked. You might need things like align honing or getting it decked. You'll want to get it bored to match your pistons for a good tight fit (make sure they do this with torque plates or find another shop). A little extra time and money on the block and rotating assembly will benifit you tremendously in the long run!
    Good luck!
     
  13. Mreetz

    Mreetz 1/2 ton status

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    This is great info!! I'll be sure and document the process and share. Thanks again!
    Martin--
     

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