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454 oil ports

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Grim-Reaper, Apr 28, 2003.

  1. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    My new to me burb did something funny. It dropped to 0 PSI when I got off the freeway. I think it's a fauls reading becuase the FI never shut down. I readsomewhere that if the FI sees 0 oil pressure that if kills the fuel pump.

    Anyway I want to hook up a mechanical oil pressure gage for a couple day's to verify the oil pressure. Where are the oil ports on this motor. Looks like the oil pressure gage sender is down on the front of the block on the passenger side. Most GM 350's in trucks had a port right up about the timming chain cover. Is there a nice easy one to get to on the 454 like that?
     
  2. Don

    Don 1/2 ton status

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    On the driver's side, down low, just above the pan rail, 1/8 pipe plug's, they all are in the Main oil galley, pick one that's easy to gain access to.

    Or there are a couple in the oil filter, housing, 3/8 pipe I think. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  3. Shawn

    Shawn 1/2 ton status Premium Member Author

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    Mines right above the oil filter (on the block).

    You can see the plugs in this pic:
    [​IMG]
    (Mark IV block)
     
  4. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    What block is it (Mark IV, Gen V/VI?) My Gen V has the Oil Press. send on the main oil galley rail just behind the timing cover on the drivers side...There are also 2 oil cooler ports and a port above the oil filter base...

    Chris
     
  5. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    [ QUOTE ]
    What block is it (Mark IV, Gen V/VI?) My Gen V has the Oil Press. send on the main oil galley rail just behind the timing cover on the drivers side...There are also 2 oil cooler ports and a port above the oil filter base...

    Chris

    [/ QUOTE ]
    I have no idea. It's a 88.
     
  6. Shawn

    Shawn 1/2 ton status Premium Member Author

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    Mine came out of 88 truck so I assume its a Mark IV.
     
  7. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    Yeppers...Mark IV block ran until 1990...Then 1991 thru 1995 we Gen V and the newer oner are Gen VI...The biggest diff. is in the Mark !V and Gen V stuff...there was a HUGE change in water jacket design (hence why you can't use a Mark IV head on a Gen V block w/o a special gasket) and there was also a large change int eh oiling system...Gen V's changed to a Priority Main oiling sstem that runs the oil from the pump straight down the sides of the oil pan rail...

    But what it comes down to is that I have NO freakin' clue where the oil ports and such are on a Mark IV...So listen the Shawn on this one... /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  8. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Yeppers...Mark IV block ran until 1990...Then 1991 thru 1995 we Gen V and the newer oner are Gen VI...The biggest diff. is in the Mark !V and Gen V stuff...there was a HUGE change in water jacket design (hence why you can't use a Mark IV head on a Gen V block w/o a special gasket) and there was also a large change int eh oiling system...Gen V's changed to a Priority Main oiling sstem that runs the oil from the pump straight down the sides of the oil pan rail...

    But what it comes down to is that I have NO freakin' clue where the oil ports and such are on a Mark IV...So listen the Shawn on this one... /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Hmmmmm Well with the oil pressure sender at the end of the crank and I asume it's a rear pumper like a SBC then maybe I did see a low pressure problem.

    It has Quakerstate in it from the Previous owner. It has 5w30 that GM specs. Any comments on the oil? I usualy use Castrol so no experiance with this stuff.
     
  9. Shawn

    Shawn 1/2 ton status Premium Member Author

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    I'd consider using the standard 10-30 or 10-40 oil. Hopefully you don't have the same problem like my 3rd engine had. Lost oil pressure after it warmed up. Main bearings were bad which is what caused this.
     
  10. Mr.Chevy4x4

    Mr.Chevy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Grim,

    There are two oil pressure sending units. One is for the gauge and it should be back by the distributor, and the other is for the FI system and it should be above the oil filter. Sounds like the one for the gauge may be flaky!

    Hope this helps.


    Mike
     
  11. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    If I were you, I change the oil and put in some 10w-40, then hook up a mechanical oil pressure switch and get a good ACCURATE READING throughout the rpm range...My SBC has a bad sender, which caused the factory gauge to ALWAYS peg above 60psi and my new autometer reads like 50 at idle and the psi drops as I ruv it up a bit /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif oh well...this is yet another reason I am putting a new rebuilt 454 in my truck...I am sick of dealing with the mechanical and electrical gremlins my 350 has become so fond of...

    BTW, I highly recommend at least 10w-40 for a BBC...Hell, there are guys over on 454ss.com runnint Rotella 15w-40 and some are running 20w-50...I am going to break in my BBC with 10w-40 Castrol GTX, then from then on out it will be running Mobil 1 10w-30 or 15w50 kinda depending on the time of year and also oil pressure...I installed a high volume pump so I can frobably get away with the 10w-30...

    Chris
     
  12. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Grim,

    There are two oil pressure sending units. One is for the gauge and it should be back by the distributor, and the other is for the FI system and it should be above the oil filter. Sounds like the one for the gauge may be flaky!

    Hope this helps.


    Mike

    [/ QUOTE ]
    All my SBC's were in those locations and so was my Big Block Poncho but the gage sender is up front about the same place as a mecanical fuel pump would be on a SBC. I changed the O2 sensor Friday and didn't notice a sender near the oil filter. The O2 is in that area. Now I wasn't really looking for the FI sender so might just not have noticed it or it's up behind the distributor hid in that wad of wires but there sure isn't a gage sender in that location.

    The more I think about it the more I'm conviced it's a bad sender. I noticed the gage wavering at idle when I was changing the upper radiator hose this weekend. The PO had a pressure washer and hosed the engine a bunch. He had an alternator go on him and I'm conviced he got water in it. The new alternator has the tell tale scally stuff on it from engine degreaser and so does the gage sender.

    The PO stuck to GM's recomendations and was using 5w30 that GM says to use. Still had about 1500 miles before it was due for a oil change. I was just going to run this through.
    He has a crappy fram oil filter on it as well and I get some start up rattle because of their crappy anti drain back valves. I think I'll change the oil this weekend and get a A/C filter on it and some different oil. I personaly run 10w40 in most stuff or Mobil 1. I have been starting to go away from the mobil 1 because I noticed lower oil pressure on my Supra when it had it in it. It also leaked worse. Maybe I'll try a blend instead of the full synthetic.




    OHHHHh btw. Bosch oil filters are the same filters as a AC filter. I stocked up and took a good look at them...Same drain back valves and same manufacturing marks. Different paint and lable.
     
  13. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Don't want/need to start an oil flame war, but I thought 10w-40 oil is absolute crap, and is not recommended for any halfway modern engine.

    I didn't bother looking this info up, but I *have* heard it multiple times. FWIW.
     
  14. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Yep, most manufacturers stopped recommending any oil with a 30-point viscosity index spread several years ago. A spread that wide requires too much viscosity index improver be added to the oil. The improver was crusting up in the piston ring grooves of some engines and causing the rings to stick. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     
  15. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Yep, most manufacturers stopped recommending any oil with a 30-point viscosity index spread several years ago. A spread that wide requires too much viscosity index improver be added to the oil. The improver was crusting up in the piston ring grooves of some engines and causing the rings to stick. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]
    Ok so now I'm confused. SO don't run 10w40? How about a 10w30?
     
  16. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    5w30 and even 10w30 supposedly don't have the problem, as it doesn't take as much viscosity improver additive to make them behave properly. I run Mobil 1 in all my junk. Since it doesn't have the parrafins that cause regular oils to thicken in cold weather they don't have to add much other stuff to keep it stable. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     

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