Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

465/205 prep swap

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by nerraw117, Feb 26, 2007.

  1. nerraw117

    nerraw117 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2005
    Posts:
    788
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    charlotte, NC
    i just got a 465 and 205 and i was wondering what yall did before yall swapped them in? drained all fluids and changed? any new seals? need to check any parts? its going to be down for a few months just checking what i need to do. i know im going to wire wheel all of it and paint it.
     
  2. Russell

    Russell LB7 Tahoe Status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2000
    Posts:
    7,925
    Likes Received:
    336
    Location:
    Fort McMurray, Alberta
    Both are pretty beefy! If there is oil in both of em, they probally won't need a whole lot of attention as far as the internals go.

    The SM465 could probally use some work on the shifter fix any slop it has though... Here is a quick rundown of things you can do cheap / for free to help stiffen it up:

    1) Put the transmission into netural, pop the shifter out and check the tip of the shifter to make sure it isn't horribly worn out. There should be a sort of D shape to it, with the shaft sticking out of the curved face of the D. If its bad then replace the shifter with a new one

    2) Make sure that there are no cracks in the spot welds where the pivot ball is welded to the shaft, if there are, re-weld it.

    3) Pull the sleeve off the shifter and check to make sure that the o-rings are not totally gone, if they are, replace them. If your 465 is a newer model it may have injected plastic in there instead of o-rings, in that case don't worry about it.

    4) Pull the top off the transmission by reinstalling the shifter and putting it half way into reverse. Undo all the bolts and lift the top straight up. The shift forks should easily slide out from their shift collars. If they don't move the shifter further into reverse until it pops out. Take a look at the shift forks and see if all of the nylon rub pad is gone where the forks slide in the shift collars. If they are, you'd be best off replacing the forks. Unfortunately, while everything else I suggest is cheap or free, shift forks can get a bit expensive but are extremely important if you want a transmission that shifts properly.

    5) Take a quick look at all the gears and make sure none of them have any excessive wiggle, broken teeth or stripped out shift collar / syncro splines. Also check the shift rails in the top to make sure they aren't worn out. They side back and forth with at least a bit of effort and shouldn't move side to side a bunch. If they do your shifter can sometimes slip between the crack that is made and get your tranny stuck in a gear.

    6) Pop the top back on making sure the shift forks, esspecially the reverse fork, all slip into their proper shift collars. Pop the two roll pins where the shifter drops into out and buy new ones. Drive the new ones half way in, install the shifter, then put them in as tight as they will go with a punch.

    Voila, you will have an SM465 that will never fall out of gear, and shift nice and easy with crisp, clean gates. :) This work only took me an afternoon to do once I got my new shift forks in. I paid 250 bucks for all new forks, less the reverse fork.
     
  3. buckmtn

    buckmtn 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2005
    Posts:
    288
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Stokesville,Va
    I pretty much did the same as the above, but since my combo was made in 1978 I went ahead and replaced all the seals and gaskets while I had it out of the truck. I got a 205 gasket and seal kit off ebay for like $35-45 and just took the old gaskets off the 465 and made new out of gasket material at work for free. Had one bearing in the t-case that was rough so I also replaced it. Add oil and wail on it. They are beef!!!
     
  4. 454k30

    454k30 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2004
    Posts:
    1,613
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    California, MD
    I didnt swap mine in, they came with the truck. Both poured gear oil out of them though so I dropped them both out of the vehicle and replaced the bearings in both and the synchros in the 465. Looking back I probably didnt need to rebuild the transmission but since I took it apart to completley clean the case and replace all of the seals it just seemed foolish not to put new bearings in.
     
  5. skyyk5

    skyyk5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2007
    Posts:
    1,537
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    N.E. PA
    I just changed the oil my first time. This time I'm rebuilding the 465 & 205. I'll prob. post all the bearing #'s and info when I do it.
     
  6. protechk5

    protechk5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2004
    Posts:
    2,015
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    VA
    swear go hydro to if you dont already have one, im doing my 465/205 swap right now and i already wish i went hydro
     
  7. skyyk5

    skyyk5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2007
    Posts:
    1,537
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    N.E. PA
    I always wondered why no one just welds on a bracket to the manual bell to convert it to hydro. I was going to when I did mine, but then scored a full hydro set up for $65.00. Just gotta preheat the casting before welding. I'm stil thinking about doing it with one of my spare bells.
     
  8. protechk5

    protechk5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2004
    Posts:
    2,015
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    VA
    yeah i didnt think about the bell housing, but i was thinking if i could make my mechanical pedals work with hydro
     
  9. Russell

    Russell LB7 Tahoe Status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2000
    Posts:
    7,925
    Likes Received:
    336
    Location:
    Fort McMurray, Alberta
    Most bellhousings are aluminum, at least that I've seen...
     
  10. 84 K5 4x4

    84 K5 4x4 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2006
    Posts:
    163
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Jasper Ga
    I would put a new input seal in. Because its cheap and might save a lot of work if it were to leak.
     
  11. nerraw117

    nerraw117 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2005
    Posts:
    788
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    charlotte, NC
    anyone got any part numbers? im trying not to spend too much but i dont want it to be dropped again and i dont want a sloppy shifter.
     
  12. k30bb468

    k30bb468 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2004
    Posts:
    955
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    NW Pennsylvania
    Here's where I got my gasket & seal kits from
    http://www.natauto.com/company.htm
    They don't have an on line catalog so you have to call in your order. You can request a catalog on the web site
    Part #'s NP205 Gasket & seal kit = TCKG-205G $19.50
    SM465 Gasket kit = TS-364 $ 3.19
     
  13. cegusman

    cegusman 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2001
    Posts:
    6,793
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Houston/Katy, Tx
    I took mine apart, checked everything, installed new gaskets, new oil. Then abused the sh!t out of it, never had a problem.
     
  14. skyyk5

    skyyk5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2007
    Posts:
    1,537
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    N.E. PA
    Yea all the ones I've ever seen too. But with the right supports and prober bracket it should not make a difference. Just gotta made sure the bell is spottless before welding.
     
  15. nerraw117

    nerraw117 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2005
    Posts:
    788
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    charlotte, NC
    poeple are talking about a seal between the adapter. anyone know where i can get that or does that come with them part numbers? i ordered both of them part numbers from natauto btw


     
  16. skyyk5

    skyyk5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2007
    Posts:
    1,537
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    N.E. PA
    I have all the bearings and seals for the rebuild in sitting in my room how. I can get any # off them for you. The seal between the adaptor? A seal by the 10 spline sleeve?
     
  17. 454k30

    454k30 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2004
    Posts:
    1,613
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    California, MD
    hey skyyk5 I need the part number(s) for the two oil seals on the adapter itself.

    How did you get the countershaft out of the sm465 case? I have the large bearing off already, I cant get my puller on the small one in the front, seems like thats the hang up but maybe i am wrong.
     
  18. nerraw117

    nerraw117 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2005
    Posts:
    788
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    charlotte, NC
    can i have them also please?


     
  19. garlicbreath

    garlicbreath 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    May 17, 2003
    Posts:
    1,136
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Denver
    So a guy here by me has a 465-205 combo for 299.00
    is it worth it?
     
  20. nerraw117

    nerraw117 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2005
    Posts:
    788
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    charlotte, NC
    i picked mine up for 300 with hydro bellhousing. front ds, crossmember.
     

Share This Page