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465 conversion question: Clutch pedal?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Thumper, Mar 3, 2003.

  1. Thumper

    Thumper 1/2 ton status

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    I just finished putting in the pedal assembly. It went well, a couple of cuss words, but overall not too bad. I dont have the tranny in yet, so there is no linkage or anything attached to the clutch pedal besides the spring. My question is: did I do it right? The clutch pedal right now is sprung up towards the driver just fine. When I press it a bit, it goes down, then reaches a point where the spring pulls it all the way down and it wont come back up on its own. I can pull it up easily, and it stays up, but I was wondering, is this the way it should be with no linkage or anything? I am curious thats all. Its in the only way I can see it can go, so I am not worried, just unfamiliar with the way it should be. The clutch itself will force the pedal back up when its installed right?
    Thanks
    Mike
     
  2. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    My clutch pedal, if I press it ALL the way down hard, sometimes gets stuck. You have to press really hard and try to get it stuck to get it stuck.
    Even if I slammed down on the clutch pedal in an emergency, it would not be enough to get it stuck. You really have to try.

    Maybe when you get the tranny and linkage in, it will provide more resistance.
    -- Mike
     
  3. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    with no linkage or master cylinder hooked up to it, yes it will be that way...My clutch pedal assembly had a broken return spring so I tossed it..when I installed the pedal assembly with out the master hooked up, it just swung back and forth...as soon as the master was on, it came back to its original position,...oncy you hook it all up, it will be fine...

    Chris
     
  4. BigBen

    BigBen 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    That's exactly how mine was before hooking everything else up.

    Mine is working fine. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  5. Thumper

    Thumper 1/2 ton status

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    Awesome, thanks guys. Thats what I thought but wanted to make sure. I shoulda mentioned its gonna be a mech setup. Now I have to get the tranny in. I have been avoiding that cause I think I may have to do both driveshafts... ewww. Oh well, this week is the plan.

    Mike
     
  6. u2slow

    u2slow 1/2 ton status

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    What you are describing is the action of the over-center spring. Perfectly normal. You'll be glad its there if you're using a big nasty 3-finger clutch /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  7. 70~K5

    70~K5 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Awesome, thanks guys. Thats what I thought but wanted to make sure. I shoulda mentioned its gonna be a mech setup. Now I have to get the tranny in. I have been avoiding that cause I think I may have to do both driveshafts... ewww. Oh well, this week is the plan.

    Mike


    [/ QUOTE ]

    On the driveshafts it depends on what you're pulling out and putting in. In my '70 K5 I pulled a TH350/NP205 and put in a SM465/NP205 and the DL length was the same.
     
  8. Thumper

    Thumper 1/2 ton status

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    I am yanking a th400/ 205 and putting in a 465/ 205. Measureing it on the floor it looks like the rear shaft will need to be about 3" longer. But I will have to wait for the final answer when its in.
    So, that spring is only an overcenter spring? I kinda figured it would be a return spring of some sort. Cool, I feel better about it now! LOL
    Thanks for the responses guys,
    Mike
     
  9. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Two words for ya Mike..."Diaphram Clutch"

    I've had both with the mechanical linkage the the 3 finger style is brutal, stiff, and grabby compared to the diaphram style. I could easily drive in heavy traffic now without cringing at every gear change.

    rene
     
  10. Thumper

    Thumper 1/2 ton status

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    Really... there is that much difference huh? I dont have the $$ for a new clutch yet, so I was going to toss in the one that came with... it looks like it should last a few months, maybe I will go with the other style when the time comes. Whats the diff in price? I got quoted 207.00 for the finger type today from NAPA.
    I just cant believe its finally going in. I got the pilot bearing today, and some gasket for between the two. Prolly in this weekend. I need another set of hands for the job... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    Mike
     
  11. wfo163

    wfo163 1/2 ton status

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    Huge difference! Make sure you get the diaphragm type. My truck had the 3 finger leg press machine as well and was one of the first things I got rid of. Yeah, too grabby and hard to slip the clutch for those slow rolling starts, seemed that it wanted to jump up from the floor. Now it presses with slightly more pressure than my vw and makes traffic much easier to deal with.
     
  12. Poohbair

    Poohbair 1/2 ton status

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    For the love of god don't buy a Napa "RAYLOC" brand clutch. You would be better off getting one from the junk yard.
    Summit or Northern have good prices on clutch kits. I think my RAM clutch kit (clutch, PP, TO Bearing, Tool) was about 125 bucks.
     
  13. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    You should be able to find a pressure plate clutch and TO bearing for under $180 cdn...

    Do not let them push you into a Borg and Beck 3 finger clutch...they suck major ass.

    I can't recall off hand what type of pressure plate came with that set-up I sold you.

    Rene
     
  14. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    Hey, at the Napa I work at, we only sell LUK clutchs...I can get you a deal on the RepSet diaphragm-style if you want...Like $98...That is the disc, pressure plate, TO bearing, pilot bearing, alignmet tool, and grease...I can get you the ProGold set to but it is $190...Still cheaper than the list on $300+ for the ProGold...

    Chris
     
  15. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I paid about $125 (US) for a "Sachs" diaphram setup, complete. Seems to be good quality, has held up for a couple of years, and yes, it's ten times better to drive than the 3 finger setup I've tried. (granted, 454 in a 6000lb truck with a semi lopey cam, but still, my 350 setup works better in any case, ease of use, ability to slip it, smoothness, etc)

    Kinda funny a clutch coming from a company famous for bicycle chains, but if it works, it works.

    I had the spare parts lying around too, but I couldn't see myself throwing a used, perhaps warped flywheel, and used clutch/pressure plate combo on the truck since I didn't want to mess with it again any time soon. Kinda like throwing used disk brake rotors on something you plan to drive all the time I guess.
     
  16. u2slow

    u2slow 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    the 3 finger style is brutal, stiff, and grabby compared to the diaphram style.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I had a chance to drive a '62 3/4-ton with the factory hydraulic clutch and 12" 3-finger clutch. Nice and smooth with no leg twitching... then again - the slave cylinder on these looks just like a wheel cylinder for drum brakes /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  17. mountainexplorer

    mountainexplorer 1/2 ton status

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    I have a "Rhino" diaphragm clutch in my Suburban. It cost under $150 for everything, and seems to hold up behind a big block just fine. The pedal is really light...even lighter than my friend's Suburban with hydraulic clutch linkage.
     
  18. ZonkRat

    ZonkRat 1/2 ton status

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    I've been real happy with the Moroso Brute Forse diaphram type in mine.Less pedal pressure and exelent hookup.No probs with slipping even with 38s. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     

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