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4X4 Lift Experts for my monster

Discussion in '1992-Present Chevy & GMC models' started by Yohinan, Dec 23, 2003.

  1. Yohinan

    Yohinan 1/2 ton status

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    Please let me know if this post would get more feedback in another forum section and I will move it to that area. Hopefully those with big lifts can help me on my journey of
    questions. First let me say I am not just going to jump into this build without plenty of research and planning. I dont plan to start buying parts for another year to year and a half. What I am looking for is advice from those that have lifts already, and have 40" tires and/or bigger. I am specifically looking at 44" or maybe 46" tires. I dont mind cutting the fenders as long as it is still appealing to the eye. Do you recommend going with a 12" lift or something different? This truck will be strictly a play truck but will sometimes see street duty (to get to and from play areas). The main terrain I will be going thru will be deep mud but I am not saying that is all the truck will see (If something looks fun I will give it a try). What I am looking for is recommendations as to who you think has the best lift kits to accomodate these tire sizes and why you feel they have the best lift kit. Also what do you recommend I do in addition to the lift kit, i.e. what type of t-case should i upgrade to if any?, rearend and gears recommended, differential upgrades recommende, etc.... I think you get the pic. If you have a web site that pertains to your truck that goes into details of your trucks buildup send it my way. I do plan on intalling a hydraulic winch for those special occasions that I may get stuck. The build will be taking place on a 95 Chev Suburban 1500 4x4. Thanks for all the help and advice. John
     
  2. thezentree

    thezentree 3/4 ton status

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    i hope you plan on running some serious axles under that. you WILL break often on IFS with that much tire. if you really want to go that big, go to www.offroadunlimited.com and look at their straight axle conversions. its much much stronger than 1/2 ton IFS could ever be. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

    35" tires are about as big as you can go on GM 1/2 ton IFS /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
     
  3. Yohinan

    Yohinan 1/2 ton status

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    yes i planned on changing them out. thats the reason for this post. i am looking for everything that needs to be done. give me any and all recommendations and what you think are the better parts out there. I am going to completely yank out the whole rearend and put in a more stout piece. I am hearing good things about the 14bff. Thanks again. John

    Edit: Yes I am refering to both the front and rear. Front= Dana 60 or Rockwell 2 1/2 ton or something else? Rear= GM 14bff or Rockwell 2 1/2 ton or maybe something else? Input desired from the knowledgeable.
     
  4. thezentree

    thezentree 3/4 ton status

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    im talking about the front end as well
     
  5. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I would put a D60 up front and a 14BFF in the back with 5.13 gears, and detroits. As for lifts I hate trimming fenders on anything that sees street use... I would go with a 12" suspension and 3" body and you should clear with very minimal triming, if any. If all you are going to do is mud than that would be a very good setup, It is too big for any tight trails and rocks. As far as a t-case upgrade, you are opening a can of worms because yes you probably need a different case but also a tranny upgrade and some serious HP will be needed to turn those huge meats effectivly in deep go. A Ford 205 might work for the t-case and a 4l80 tranny would be a good idea.

    I hope you relize how much all this costs depending on your mechanical ability. Axles all geared with posi would probably be around 4K, 3to 4K for tires/wheels, couple of thousand for the suspension and even way more if you can't do the strait axle conv. yourself. 2.5K for a 4l80, couple hundred for a ford 205, and 3to4K for for a built motor.
     
  6. Yohinan

    Yohinan 1/2 ton status

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    Rjf, those recommendations look like what I am going for however, one thing that does not take to well with me is body lifts. I hate the look of them and will avoid them like the plague. If I go with a 12" lift and still go with some fender trimming how big of a tire do you think I can stuff? About the money yes I do realize the cost involved. I believe that I can do 95% of the work myself. Never worked on big trucks before however all my previous vehicles that I have owned everything has been done by yours truly. Another reason I am waiting so long to start buying parts is that I am currently building a car that has cost me roughly 20 grand in parts (shh, dont tell the wife). All the labor I have done and will continue to do myself. So although I have never done a 4X project I am sure with a little bit of help and my previous knowledge of vehicles things should go fairly well. Thanks again. John
     
  7. willyswanter

    willyswanter 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Well if you actually plan on using it you better beef up the 60 front... You will be breaking stubs and joints consistantly with 44's and high horsepower.

    I am a big fan of fender cutting, even on a street vehicle. I think trucks lifted too high and the bodies above the tires look rediculous and are a waste of parts... I run 40's on 7" of lift and I'm going to 44's with no more lift, just more cutting and axle re-positioning.

    15" of lift just sounds stupid to me... Maybe I just don't know enough about mud... But with 44's and 15" of lift the truck would be so top heavy that I couldn't even imagine trying to wheel it on off camber trails and rocks.

    Anywho, about your question, you will need:

    Front:
    -Axle
    -springs
    -sfa kit from oru (includes spring hangers)
    -shocks
    -brake lines
    -drive shaft
    -wheels/tires

    Rear:
    -axle
    -springs
    -shackle flip (optional)
    -shocks
    -tires/wheels

    As far as the tranny and t-case, the stock 241's chain won't hold up to higher power and 44's for long at all... Not to mention the input shaft and output shafts. If you want an auto go with the 4l80e which can be found for under $800 in good working condition. For t-cases you can go either pass. or drivers drop depending on what front axle you go with, stregth wise I would go np205 or np203/205 doubler. Doesn't sound like you need alot of low range though.
     
  8. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I think trucks lifted too high and the bodies above the tires look rediculous and are a waste of parts... I run 40's on 7" of lift and I'm going to 44's with no more lift, just more cutting and axle re-positioning.

    15" of lift just sounds stupid to me... Maybe I just don't know enough about mud... But with 44's and 15" of lift the truck would be so top heavy that I couldn't even imagine trying to wheel it on off camber trails and rocks.


    [/ QUOTE ]
    bahaahhhha. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif You think Someone would take a big truck like that on trails and rocks? Tall trucks are the best for mud...keeping the body out of the mud is a good thing.
    I think a truck with the tires stuck way up into the fenders or whats left of the fenders looks rediculous and a waste of a set of once good fenders. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

    Yohin, If you are going to play mostly in deep mud then I would get a little air under that truck to keep that nice suburban body out of the mud. I don't blame you for not liking body lifts, neither do I and the only reason I have one is because they are cheap and I allready had my suspension done. I would try to aim around 12" to 14" of lift maybe a little more or less depending on how much you want to cut. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  9. mudjunkie 82

    mudjunkie 82 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    The best thing to do is figure out what you are going to do with it.Lift is more a concern with rock crawling than it is with mud, 12" lift with 44"s is a pretty good combo for mud. you will still have to do some trimming though.I would do the shackle flip on the rear to eliminate the rear blocks. this helps the axle wrap problem. go with a dana 60 up front ,14 bolt full floater in the back. they are expensive to build though.I have over 4000.00 in my front and rear. also go with cross over steering maybe hydro steering.also you need some serious power to spin the 44"s. i went with back spacing on mine to set the tires further out. this helps makes the truck more stable off camber.I found the best thing to do is plan it all out then build it over time.It will get expensive......
     
  10. 89K1500Chevy

    89K1500Chevy 1/2 ton status

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    man i saw your sig a while ago and i meant to ask you then if you have any pics of this beast? id like to see it b/c i love Mean lookin rides cars,trucks, sport bikes, even some of my buddys hondas but they are built up and they hate ricer cars its funny they have them lowered for handling but leave the body stock. they are sleeper cars.
     
  11. Yohinan

    Yohinan 1/2 ton status

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    So with fender trimming and 12" of lift I take it the 44" would be safe. Also who do you all recommend I should go with for the lift? Who has the best quality in parts and service? Thanks again. John
     
  12. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Your 1500 has a lowly 4L60E underneath it (just a computer controlled 700R4) which is not going to like dragging 44's around. The very first thing that I recommend is that you sell the '95 1500 and find a nice 2500 series Suburban of the same time frame. Many of them came from the factory with a 454 under the hood and all of them that had auto trannies came with the 4L80E. These 2 things alone will put you WAY ahead of the game. You'll have lots more power (especially if you go a year or two newer and get one with a Vortec 454) and a MUCH better transmission, all controlled properly by the factory electronics. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    Just adding a 4L80E to your present rig would set you back WAY more than the $800 quoted earlier. A 4L80E is just scrap metal until you provide a computer to make it operate. Those are running $750+ from the aftermarket. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif Also do some searching for a 4L80E and see what they really cost. I know a guy that owns a tranny shop and he has to pay $800-850 just for 4L80E cores! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif So finding an $800 4L80E in running condition would be an excellent score. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

    Starting with a truck that at least has plenty of motor and a super duty tranny will put you light years ahead before you even start doing the lift and swapping axles. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  13. Yohinan

    Yohinan 1/2 ton status

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    Harry, yes I know all about the 4L80E's. I had a 4L60E in my 94 Impala. I had to replace it three times. They are great in lighter vehicles but throw them in something heavy with a lot of hp and they love to break. I had not even considered keeping the 60 and I know all about the prices of an 80. It would be in the range of 3k (give or take) for everything to be swapped. I have actually pondered the idea of selling the 1500 and getting a 2500. I love Suburban's for their size and will be staying with another if I do sell my 95. I am actually leaning more towards that idea and still going ahead with my previous mentioned plans, I will just have a heavier duty rig to start out with. Thanks again. John

    Edit: Since the subject of the 2500 came up what do the 95 and newer 2500 Burb's come with for t-cases, axles, and rearends?
     
  14. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Harry, yes I know all about the 4L80E's. I had a 4L60E in my 94 Impala. I had to replace it three times. They are great in lighter vehicles but throw them in something heavy with a lot of hp and they love to break. I had not even considered keeping the 60 and I know all about the prices of an 80. It would be in the range of 3k (give or take) for everything to be swapped. I have actually pondered the idea of selling the 1500 and getting a 2500. I love Suburban's for their size and will be staying with another if I do sell my 95. I am actually leaning more towards that idea and still going ahead with my previous mentioned plans, I will just have a heavier duty rig to start out with. Thanks again. John

    Edit: Since the subject of the 2500 came up what do the 95 and newer 2500 Burb's come with for t-cases, axles, and rearends?

    [/ QUOTE ]
    Very good idea, I totally agree with Harry3 on getting a 2500 burb. A 454 should be nice along with that tranny plus you will already have the rear 14BFF that you wouldn't have to buy. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif I am pondering what t-case a 2500 burb would have? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  15. willyswanter

    willyswanter 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    BW4401 if it's floor shift.
     
  16. Yohinan

    Yohinan 1/2 ton status

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    That would be for a 95 only correct? In 96 I believe is when Chev went to the dash mounted electrical controls. Or is it still the same? BW supposedly suck due to no aftermarket. Is this also correct?
     
  17. willyswanter

    willyswanter 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    You could get a floor shift all the way up to 2003 if you wanted... My 96 has floor shift 4401. What do you need aftermarket? It's got 32 spline input, 32 spline front and rear fixed yoke outputs... Theres no upgrades neccessary.
     
  18. i8yrsuv

    i8yrsuv 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Well if you actually plan on using it you better beef up the 60 front... You will be breaking stubs and joints consistantly with 44's and high horsepower.

    I am a big fan of fender cutting, even on a street vehicle. I think trucks lifted too high and the bodies above the tires look rediculous and are a waste of parts... I run 40's on 7" of lift and I'm going to 44's with no more lift, just more cutting and axle re-positioning.

    15" of lift just sounds stupid to me... Maybe I just don't know enough about mud... But with 44's and 15" of lift the truck would be so top heavy that I couldn't even imagine trying to wheel it on off camber trails and roc.

    Anywho, about your question, you will need:

    Front:
    -Axle
    -springs
    -sfa kit from oru (includes spring hangers)
    -shocks
    -brake lines
    -drive shaft
    -wheels/tires

    Rear:
    -axle
    -springs
    -shackle flip (optional)
    -shocks
    -tires/wheels

    As far as the tranny and t-case, the stock 241's chain won't hold up to higher power and 44's for long at all... Not to mention the input shaft and output shafts. If you want an auto go with the 4l80e which can be found for under $800 in good working condition. For t-cases you can go either pass. or drivers drop depending on what front axle you go with, stregth wise I would go np205 or np203/205 doubler. Doesn't sound like you need alot of low range though.

    [/ QUOTE ] /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
    I would like to say that bigg dogg trucks are really great if you are wheeling in mud or running up the river . I have been wheeling in water and found out that it was ALOT deeper then I thought it was !!! { time for a bigger lift kit } /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif I think that we have different types of wheelers here, as we have different types of places to wheel..Sand,mud,fire trails ,water ,rivers crossins,Camping etc..... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     

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