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52"s on the front of my 67'

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 1967k10, Dec 1, 2005.

  1. 1967k10

    1967k10 1/2 ton status

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    I've been contiplating swapping some 52"s in place of my 4" Skyjacker springs. They would ride nicer and flex a lot better.Do you have to move the rear bracket? I was thinking about just running a longer shackle.I already have longer ones on there with my 4" springs. I need my axle moved 1" back for optimum tire fitment.I don't want to trim my new fenders.
    Next question,anyone ever use 79' Furd f250 rear springs on the rear of a 1st Gen truck? They fit good when turned around in conjunction with a shackle flip.It moves the rear axle back a couple inches and gives some lift.I would imagine they will ride smoother too.
     
  2. 1967k10

    1967k10 1/2 ton status

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    No one has done this :confused: ????
     
  3. Larry_in_Tx

    Larry_in_Tx 1/2 ton status

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    Nope, or at least I haven’t heard too many that have done the swap on a 1st gen.

    Because our front springs are shorter than the 2nd gens you don’t have to move the rear hanger. I moved the front hanger 3” and threw the springs in to check the shackle angle and it turned out pretty good. Only moving the front hanger and having the longer shackles installed let the axle stay in the stock spot, I didn’t have to adjust the drag link at all. In my case I wanted the axle pushed forward so that was a drawback but it sounds like it’ll give you what you want.

    Here’s how the shackle angle turned out, it's at about a 45* angle to the ground.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Don't really see the need....

    [​IMG]

    That's an RTI score of a little over 1000, using a custom 45" front leafpack, and a set of '89K5 rear stock springs with a 4" ORD shackleflip.

    I'm not sure you realize HOW much flex is available without going to the trouble of the 52/63" spring route.


    :saweet:
     
  5. ecameron87

    ecameron87 1/2 ton status

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    How about cost? Which one would be cheaper to do? A custom pack (what type) or 52" springs up front? Greg72, what is the difference between an 89 stock spring and the 69-72 stock rear? Is the 89 longer or does it just flex more?
     
  6. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    I don't know the total cost of a 52" swap (Springs, fabrication of new mounts, longer shackles, etc)....but I bought my springs from ORD for $399 IIRC. (Disclaimer: This was a while ago, and I'm not sure about current pricing)

    The problem I see with the 52's is that the front spring hanger has to be moved forward...so you end up with these ugly "fangs" sticking out beyond the bumper. Not the greatest way to improve your approach angles... :thinking:

    Using the "late model" springs on a 1st Gen, is one of the best kept secrets around (apparently!). The later springs were MUCH softer than what came on the 1st Gens....and they have the nice Teflon sliders in them. It's a straight bolt in swap (same length eye-to-eye) and you can usually get them for FREE...since most people throw away the stockers when they add a lift kit. The only costs are related to the shackle flip....but I'd already installed one, so getting more flex out back was actually free.


    It's worth thinking about, and I think that pic speaks for itself. The truck can do some amazing things even with a simple "stock-like" spring setup.....and LONG travel shocks!!! You'll be amazed how easily you can bottom-out or top-out your shocks once you start getting some real flex in your springs.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2006
  7. Larry_in_Tx

    Larry_in_Tx 1/2 ton status

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    Cost was the main reason I went with the 52s. I only have about 50 bucks into the swap and most of that’s in beer. The only thing that’s left is to permanently reinforce the top part of the hanger when I make new bumpers and I’ve got the junk laying around the garage to do that.

    I don’t remember exactly how close to the frame the stock bumper was but even up 3” my hangers are still behind the end of the frame. I’d ASSume the bumper would cover them up but if not I could see that keeping someone from doing the swap.

    I’ve seen trucks with custom packs do just what Greg’s is doing in the pic and it is impressive. The last competition I attended had a leaf sprung truck win the RTI portion with ORDs packs under it and it was the only leaf sprung truck out of the bunch.
     
  8. 1967k10

    1967k10 1/2 ton status

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    Wow that flexs a lot. It looks like I'll stay with what I have on the front.What about the Furd springs on the rear? They are nice and soft and give some lift.I think I'm going to try it since I already have a couple sets laying areond from trucks I parted.
     
  9. 1967k10

    1967k10 1/2 ton status

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    I tryed to get it to flex some in the shop today by lifting one side up.It lifted the whole front end up after flexing about 6" :mad:. I may just go ahead with 52"s.I need more than 6"s of front flex.It wouldn't even make the one front spring flat when I lifted the other side up :mad: .
     
  10. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Did you disconnect your shocks? Do you know for SURE that the shocks weren't bottoming (or topping) out? Check the opposing rear corner too....when you lift a front corner, the rear corner has to squat...

    Rushing to 52's isn't the answer...make sure you understand what is happening underneath on all four corners.


    :wink1:
     
  11. 1967k10

    1967k10 1/2 ton status

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    So you are saying my shocks are probably the problem? I hadn't thought about that.What it the answer to making a long travel shock work? Some different mounts? Thanks a lot for the input.
     
  12. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Yes, that's what I'm saying.It's hard to fix a problem until you understand the source of your flex problems. You need to figure out why your existing springs won't flatten out...It is very likely a shock problem (too short, or not in the proper position for lift) or even a shackle issue (not long enough to allow spring to flatten out, or simply at a bad angle)Get the truck back up on a ramp and really study things underneath. TAKE PICTURES of everything, and post them up. Even if you don't fully understand what you're looking at....there are plenty of people here who will.:thumb:
     
  13. 1967k10

    1967k10 1/2 ton status

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    I will do more looking.I don't have a camera yet but will get one soon hopefully. I have 1 1/2" hangers and can make longer ones.I also plan to get some 1" zero rates to move he axle back for optimum tire to fender clearance.
     
  14. 1967k10

    1967k10 1/2 ton status

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    OK,the shocks were limiting me some.The shackle it at a 45 degree angle to the frame.I assume that isn't helping me but don't have the experience.
    Greg72: Do you have any trouble with rumming under full flex with those 38.5"s? Mine looks like it will rub 35"s under full flex and full lock.Do you know how many inches you trimmed off your fenders? Thanks
     
  15. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    No rubbing...

    But remember, it's a series of small steps to get the tires to clear with minimal cutting.
    • Moved front axle forward 1"
    • Moved rear axle back 2"
    • 2" Body Lift
    • Remove inner fenderwells
    • Longer rear shackles (w/flip)
    • etc
    If you really want mad flex, you can start with your 35's and get things sorted out. THEN see where clearance is tight, and make the adjustments for a larger tire at that point.

    It's a big commitment, so don't think you can just ask a few questions...bolt on a few parts and be done. You will need to understand the relationship of the shackles to the springs, and the arc that an axle travels in (front to back) as it stuffs into the fenderwell.
     
  16. 1967k10

    1967k10 1/2 ton status

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    I'm going to do some work on it today of possible.The rear is not a problem because I'm going to run a tube bed.I will probably move the axles like you said and get longer shackles.I personally don't want a body lift.The inner fenders are already gone. I used 35"s for an example because I have 33" and they have very little room at full flex.I'm going to pick up a set of 37"s and work around them. That seems to be the size that will best fit my needs.Any more input? Thanks
     
  17. 1967k10

    1967k10 1/2 ton status

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    I moved the front axle forward 1" and looked like it would work well but I moved it back until I get my 37"s on and see where I'm at.I did install a set of modifyed 79' Furd f250 springs on the rear,with a shackle flip and it flexes like crazy :D . Hopefully I can get some pic's soon.The 37" will go on on Monday.
     
  18. ecameron87

    ecameron87 1/2 ton status

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    Updates? I want to see how well the Ford springs worked. You are still stock 4" springs up front, right?
     
  19. 1967k10

    1967k10 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah I still have 4" Skyjackers up front.The Ford rears are awsome.The flex very well. I don't have a digital camera but I have friends that have them.Maybe I can get some pic's and post them up. I did get some 52" on hand so I may try the swap just to see what it's like.:D
     

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