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6.2 Diesel CUCV Starter problem

Discussion in '1982-Present GM Diesel' started by Depdog, Aug 3, 2002.

  1. Depdog

    Depdog 1/2 ton status Author

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    Got an 86 CUCV with the 6.2 Put new batteries in it and the lights come on (water in fuel and wait lights, water in fuel goes out fast, wait light goes out after glo plugs warm) Turn to start and you hear the injector sol. click, but no starter power. Bridged the gap on the starter sol. Lots of sparks and it turned the engine over. What kills power to the starter? Any ideas on this.

    Thanks
    Depdog
     
  2. Tybee

    Tybee 1/2 ton status

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    Sounds like a bad solenoid. Did you just buy it? Does it still have a 24 volt system? There is no such thing as an injector solenoid, it is probably the glow plug relay clicking.
     
  3. Depdog

    Depdog 1/2 ton status Author

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    Well, it looks like a Ford Starter sol. Its on the firewall close to the hydra boost brake booster. It is silver in color. Clicks on an off when I go to start with the key. The starter makes no noise what so ever.

    Depdog
     
  4. Tybee

    Tybee 1/2 ton status

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    I dont know to much about that, I dont have any thing on the firewall like that. DieselDan or Batman should be able to help you though.
     
  5. Dirty Dave

    Dirty Dave 1/2 ton status

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    The solinoid(sp?) on the firewall you are refering to is the glow plug relay. The CUCV has a different glow plug system than a civillian 6.2. Are you getting 24V's at the starter? The starter BTW is the only 24V electrical item on the vehicle.

    From the conversations that I have had with several CUCV owners it seems that the electrical system is the most common source of problems. In my case the glow plugs refuse to work off of the ignition switch although I have replaced everything.
     
  6. René

    René 1/2 ton status

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    Also the CUCV has the starter relay buildet in the starter. In sleep (determines the wrong word) the thick cable from the battery must lead electricity to the starter. During starting also the thin cable, which comes from the ignition switch, must have power. If it isnt so with your car and you dont hears clicks, then the starter relay is defective. In most cases you can overhaul it easily. If you hear click, the battery is defective or you have a bad bonding.

    On the CUCV only the starter is with 24V, even the glow plugs are supplied over resistances with 12V.
     
  7. 4x4k20

    4x4k20 1/2 ton status

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    i am having the same trouble with my cucv does anyone have an correct answer?
     
  8. Tybee

    Tybee 1/2 ton status

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    Your SOL. /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
     
  9. KRUM

    KRUM 1/2 ton status

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    HEY JUST GIVE IT TO ME I'LL FIX IT /forums/images/icons/grin.gif HA HA HA
     
  10. DieselDan

    DieselDan 1/2 ton status

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    Starters are relatively simple devices. If you're getting good battery voltage through the large power cable (No corrosion crawling up the wire), and your key is switching the solenoid wire: it should work.
    If it doesn't, it's broke. Usually problems center around the solenoid, or the starter drive. IIRC the power that controls your starter solenoid is 12 Volts, and your 12 Volt solenoid switches (controls) 24 Volts that actually spins the starter. I would think a civilian starter solenoid would be the same.
    If you don't wan't replace just the solenoid, find a good local starter/altenator shop they can rebuild it easily. I stay away from the cheap AutoZone/Pepboyz crap like the plague. /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
     
  11. ZZ4x4

    ZZ4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Glenn, Let me add ... The starter AND starter solenoid on the side of the starter both need 24 volts. The cab including the ignition switch uses 12 V. The ignition switch when in the run position activates the glow plug relay and controller and the injection pump solenoid. Your dash lights sound like they come on properly at this point. When you rotate the ignition switch to start, 12 volts is sent to the starter relay behind the dash. This relay also has 24v from the battery going to it. The 12v activates the relay and allows 24v to go the integrated starter solenoid( on the starter). This relay is the silver one you sold to me by the way. You can jumper across the red and purple wires going into the relay connector (terminals on opposite ends of the connector) with a heavy duty button and verify the motor turns over. If this works, your problem is the relay (also check that you get 12 v on the side terminal from the ign switch when in Start). You can use a Ford solenoid here instead of the Military relay because the mil ones are getting hard to find. /forums/images/icons/mad.gif JT
     
  12. 4x4k20

    4x4k20 1/2 ton status

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    i went out today and jumped it at the starter and it fired rite up so now i now that its the wire from the switch to the starter the truck sat for a few years without the windsheild and no dash so i aint totally SOL
     
  13. Tybee

    Tybee 1/2 ton status

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    so i aint totally SOL

    [/ QUOTE ] Thats a good thing. /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif
     
  14. DieselDan

    DieselDan 1/2 ton status

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    Dooh! /forums/images/icons/blush.gif Jeff is right. I forgot all about the the other relay under the dash (never had one die, though). See what happens when they take all my CUCVs away /forums/images/icons/frown.gif
     
  15. ZZ4x4

    ZZ4x4 1/2 ton status

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    4x4K20, just to re-state, there is no wire connecting your switch with the starter as in a civi diesel /forums/images/icons/wink.gif .There is the relay which isolates the switch from the 24v. Check your relay (behind the dash near the gas pedal). There is a silver box with a wire harness conected. It has a purple, purple/white, red, and black wire going into it. If you jumper this connector, you can verify your wiring is ok. JT
     

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