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6.2 Diesel oil cooler & flywheel

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Robert79K5, Oct 20, 2004.

  1. Robert79K5

    Robert79K5 1/2 ton status

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    Allright... I have officially made up my mind to swap the 6.2 in my pickup into my k5 and the gasser in my k5 into my pickup.
    I was wondering about the oil cooler on the 6.2 diesel. Is it a necessary item? can I plug the ports on the block and not run the oil cooler or will this cause certain disaster?
    Mainly I ask because I want to minimize hoses and I would like to run the new 4 core radiator that I put in my k5 because the diesel radiator in my pickup is old and I don't trust it and don't want to swap it into my k5.

    Also since I have to buy a flywheel, what years did the dual mass flywheel run? I want to be able to order a reground flywheel from a generic parts house by year and get a non dual mass flywheel.

    Sorry for posting all this diesel tech here in the garage... If you guys will just bare with me untill I get this swap finished I will buy a membership.

    Thanks in Advance.. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Unless you have the big block 4 core in the K5 I'd say it's not going to provide enough cooling. The 6.2 rad was the largest offered in our trucks and the only one that comes close is the big block 4 core.

    That being said, you could use a stacked plate tranny cooler for an oil cooler, but you might have to thread some barbed fittings into the block and run soft lines. GM must have felt there was a need for an oil cooler, I have yet to see a 6.2 that didn't have one.

    Rene
     
  3. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I've been thinking of blocking off my oil cooler too when the lines finally rust through(by the looks of them they probably wont make the winter,they'll most likely leak while I'm plowing in a blizzard with my luck)--I've talked with a few experienced diesel mechanics about that--one said to just plug the holes in the block where the hoses go--another says to make a "loop"of metal tubing to join the two ports together--another one says to never by pass it- buy new hoses you cheap prick! /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif--I tend to agree with Rene--if GM put them there,there must be a good reason for it(other than to cost a lot to replace the lines,and probably the radiator when the lines wont come out,and twist the radiator tanks all too hell).I then thought of using an aftermarket one from Jegs,they sell a nice one with hoses for about 75 bucks--that way I wont have to chance trashing the radiator,and it will be a larger cooler to boot.The guy that said to just block it off does fleet repairs on several company trucks on a cranberry bog,says he's blocked them off on a few of their trucks as they age and the lines rust out--they use the trucks pretty hard too-but they have more money than I do for new engines--I do have an oil cooler from a 90 gas 350 K5 I had saved for my diesel,but it looks too small for it.If you did lose an oil cooler line out on the trail,I wonder what the "right way" is too block it off to limp home--plugged,or both ports "looped" together??? /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif.
     
  4. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    My lines are aluminum...aren't yours? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

    Rene
     
  5. joez

    joez 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    My lines are aluminum...aren't yours? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

    Rene

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Mine are too, i thought they all were /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
     
  6. Robert79K5

    Robert79K5 1/2 ton status

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    Well I do have a extra large tranny cooler laying around that I could make use of.

    So what about the dual mass flywheel? I got the part number for the non-dual mass one but it dosn't match the parts store part numbers. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  7. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Nope--mine are steel,(and rusted /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif)they are steel where they come out of the block,then rubber is crimped on,for a few feet where they go towards the sreeing box-then they have a flare fitting on both,and it turns back to steel where they pass in front of the fan behind the radiator(looks like they were galvanized at that spot--but its now the rustiest spot--salt must get sprayed on them there by the fan)-then they go into the cooler in the radiator.Its kind of ass backwards--they put the oil cooler on the passenger side,so the hoses and metal lines have to be twice as long--same with the tranny cooler lines,they come out of the tranny on the passenger side,and have to cross over to the drivers side--dont know why they did that--every gas powered GM truck has the tranny lines on the passenger side of the radiator,a straight shot for the lines.I think the stock routing of the lines and hoses sucks--makes them longer than nessasary,and the more hose and lines you have,the more likely it will get damaged or rusted.I suppose I could buy just the rubber hose that is oil cooler rated,and the correct barb fittings for the block and radiator when the original ones fail--just another PITA though---.I still say the DOT should make stainless steel brake,fuel,and oil and tranny and power steering lines stainless steel mandatory--at the least for us folks in the rust belt.You wouldnt beleive the prices for new fuel lines and a sending unit for a 95 GMC my freind just did for a customer--it would have been over 500 bucks just for parts,if he hadn't lucked out at the junkyard--we found a 94 chevy that just had its tank,lines and sending unit replaced about 6 months ago,and since he does a lot of business with this boneyard he got everything for less than a hundred bucks---but its rare to luck out like that very often around here--usually they are all the same,rotted to death in 5 years-and very dangerous!. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     

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