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6" or 4" lift

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by chebywanna, May 5, 2003.

  1. chebywanna

    chebywanna 1/2 ton status

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    6\" or 4\" lift

    i tried searching, i tried members rides (can't find specs), and tried looking at peoples info sheet thing, didn't find anything useful there eather, so i figure i ask the dreaded question...

    i want to run 37s on my newly aquired 77 K20 /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif with minimal lift and i don't know which way i should go, i know i want bushwacker fander cut outs regardless, now should i go 4" springs front with 1" HD ord shackle and 4" ord shackle flip rear with a 1" add a leaf, or should i go 6" springs all around? /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
    sorry bout the torture
     
  2. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 6\" or 4\" lift

    My vote is for 6" springs all around. Go with some Tough Country Ez-rides or BDS springs. You'll want the extra height to keep the tires out of the fenders with those flexy springs. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

    Well, I suppose an option would be to run the 4" springs in those brands for even better flex. Then, install ORD's 1" zero-rates on all 4 corners for a total of 5" lift. Stay away from add-a-leafs if possible.
    And by the way, the ORD extended shackles for the front will only gain you roughly 1/2" of lift.
     
  3. Bhintz

    Bhintz 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 6\" or 4\" lift

    if you get cut out flares you will only need 2 1/2 lift but, if you dont you will need 6 inches w/ out doing trimming, Id get 6 inch springs up front and echobit shackle reverse in rear its like 5.5 inch lift and an add-a-leaf or the 4 inch ORD shackle reverse and 2 inch blocks.
     
  4. BLZN4FN

    BLZN4FN 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 6\" or 4\" lift

    I have 37's w/6inch lift Had to trim the ft fenders
    and no trimming on the rear. I have the ORD flip in the rear.
     
  5. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    Re: 6\" or 4\" lift

    What do you want to do with your K20 ??? From my understanding, you'd want a smaller lift if you're rock crawling for the lowere center of gravity, but if rock crawling, you'd end up destoying the Bushwacker fender flairs pretty quickly. If you're going more for "The Look", go 6" springs up front, and ORD 4" Shackle flip + 2" lift springs for the rear.
     
  6. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    Re: 6\" or 4\" lift

    the never ending debate... 4" vs 6". Personally, I run 5" or so of lift. 4" springs up front + zero rates + ORD shackles... prolly 5.25-5.5" of lift. In the rear its a ORD shack flip (4") stock springs, a set of zero rates, taller-that-stock perches and revolver shackles (prolly 5.5-5.75"). Works for me so far,

    j
     
  7. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    Re: 6\" or 4\" lift

    <font color="green"> I wouldn't do a spring lift in the rear, too damn stiff. Do the shackle flip and make up the difference in height with a longer shackle. Or do the 57" spring conversion with 8" shackles to get to 6" of lift. I bought 6" lift rear springs and I hate them since they don't flex very well at all.</font>
     
  8. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 6\" or 4\" lift

    I have an 81 K20 with 4" suspension lift and 36" TSLs. It has received some fender trimming, but fairly minimal (compared to my Jimmy, that is). The K20 rides a whole lot different than a K5/Jimmy due to the significantly less weight above the frame as well as the longer, stiffer rear 3/4 ton springs.

    If you went with a shackle flip (retained the original rear springs) and a 1" zero rate as well as front 4" springs and a 1" zero rate, you will probably be able to clear 37s with Bushwacker cut-outs. If it is only used for fairly minor off-raoding and you are more concerned with "the look", then that is what I would do. It will be fairly close to the stock ride on the street that way.

    Also remember the wheel size and backspacing has a lot to do with clearance. I run my 36s on 15x8 wagon wheels. If you run on 10" rims or those with shallow backspacing, you will increase the likelihood of hitting your front fenders. And BW Cut-outs don't handle tire impact very well. Ask me how I know!
     
  9. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    Re: 6\" or 4\" lift

    [ QUOTE ]
    i know i want bushwacker fander cut outs regardless,

    [/ QUOTE ]

    good gawd... why? If its a show truck... i guess I could see it. Otherwise, I'd pass on the bushwackers. They are expensive... and Ive seen way to many trucks whos fenders look like chit because they DID have bushwackers and rocks kept destroying them so they took em off... exposing all kinds of nasty rivet holes, un-faded paint, and previously hidden rust. I dont need any help destroying my factory sheet metal! lol!

    j
     
  10. jay web

    jay web Registered Member

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    Re: 6\" or 4\" lift

    YOU guys with the 4" and zero rates--- what shocks (length, brand) are you running?
     
  11. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    Re: 6\" or 4\" lift

    I have 4" lift + zero rates. I run DT8000 series shocks...the longest ones they make. Call matt/lisa at WTO, they will know exactly what you are talking about. $35 per shock, and IMO they are the best shock $ can buy for less than $50-60/shock.

    j
     
  12. Poohbair

    Poohbair 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 6\" or 4\" lift

    Im running 4" front springs and an Echobit/57" setup on rear. I run 38x15.50's, so 37's should work fine. I just cut the crap out of the fenders.
     
  13. chebywanna

    chebywanna 1/2 ton status

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    Re: 6\" or 4\" lift

    gg gg gggeeeeeeeeezzzzzz (insert shivvering "smilly" face here) h hh he sssaid ssshsshow trrruckkckk.
    that crap don't tickle me where it should.

    i have a D60 and a 14b ff for the truck, i want to run 37 or 38" buggers on hummer rims (usa6x6) and 37 hummer tires for pavemnt pounding (reg rims). i will beat the crap out of my truck(trails and sand dunes is my game, not much into rock crawling, get enough of that in chicago traffic with some of them pot holes) i know it will create carnage but dang! its my truck. now i don't like screaping my truck on stuff but i seem to be good at doing that stuff so maybe the cut outs are a bad idea, especially since ill be runnig regular width tires on pavement (which never clicked before, don't ask why, i don't know) and they do cost an arm and a first born. i like the idea of cutting some sheet metal since it will get rid of some rust, but i don't want to tear into it like a mad man, it still has to look half deacent so the local cops don't harass me... too much.
    so you say 5" and some trim will work. cool.
    now for the rear, ive read youre not supposed to tow with a shackle flip, true? i might want to get rid of my current truck after i build that one so i would need it to tow (up to 7000 lbs), so that would leave me only springs as choice (don't want blocks). havn't decided on shocks yeat (not superlift seems to be more show than go company, not rancho heard too many complaints about this and that not to say they are bad but don't wana, just like i won't use amoco since they rubbed me the wrong way 9 yars ago), size first.
    now why would the ez rides flex worse than stock? aren't they softer? i know theyre closer to the smily face effect but is it that much difference?
     
  14. jay web

    jay web Registered Member

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    Re: 6\" or 4\" lift

    jekbrown-- do you mean west texas offroad? how do i contact them?
     
  15. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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