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60e-->80e and bellypan

Discussion in '1992-Present Chevy & GMC models' started by bggrnchvy, Aug 15, 2006.

  1. bggrnchvy

    bggrnchvy Registered Member

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    The story is basically that I burned up the 3-4 clutch in my 60e and needed a strong cheap fix(less than the cost of built to the hilt 60e, whose reliability was questionable in my land yacht). After much looking and quite a bit of help from Eric B. and others accross forum land, I settled on the 80e.
    Now the question became, what year 80e could I use being it was going into a 97 truck with OBDII. Well it turned out I can use any 80e all the back from 91 if I needed, I just had to update the internal and external harness's(~$100 off ebay) if I used a 91-93 unit. It was stressed to me that newer was better as, of course with all production runs, changes were made for the better.
    With this knowledge in my hand I thought Id try and find a cheap core and rebuild it myself to save cost as I have all the time I really chose to take on the project. I found 91 cores for $100, I found 93 running for $450, the list wen ton and on. With some help, I waited patiently to find a good deal instead of a mediocre deal.
    Finally after checking craigslist multiple times a day, it popped up, a 96 80e out of a 4x4(no tailshaft swapping), runnable with a deep pan and the d-drop 241 still attached for a grand total of $400 within 20 minutes of my house.
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    [​IMG]
    With the transmission at home, I spent some time cleaning it up, but life has for the most part gotten in the way. Finally I got some time to start the transmission removal. I built a tranny adaptor out of some peices of 2x4 tube and a long 5/8" bolt(the welder has opened huge new possibilities). Then I had to go about pulling driveshafts, the t-case, crossmembers, the starter, dust cover, all the cooler lines and electric connections and the torque converter bolts. Im left with the 60e hanging on by the 6 bellhousing bolts.
    [​IMG]
    In the mean time I kept looking for deals as I still needed a few parts, I found a torque converter to go with it for $40.
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    Im still however short the dustcover, something may be occuring this weekend however on that front.
    In the mean time, I still needed to swap the inputs on my transfer case from 27 spline to 32 spline. Ive procured another p-drop 32 spline unit in some trading from before the d-drop unit attached to the transmission showed up so Ill be using that as Im saving the d-drop for future possibilities. I pulled the 241 Im using apart this evening to get the 27 spline input out. After a bit of prying, argueing and some threats I managed to get it out into its peices.
    [​IMG]
    All apart to get to this:
    [​IMG]
    Tore down the other 241 p-drop to get the 32 spline input out of it, it basically fought me every second of the way. I guess you just never know when it comes to JY cases.
    [​IMG]
    I have to put it back together at some point with the 27 spline input, but Im about at the end of my t-case building mind. Still have to take the back half of the d-drop apart for the oil pump tomorrow morning or Tues.
    There was some talk about the 32 spline inpuut having a different bearing and seal, but that proved to be not true.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    The 32 spline in its new home.
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    The 80e with the transfer case adaptor measured out to be 2" longer than the 60e similiarly equiped so Ill gain a little length in my front driveshaft which will help the angle a few degree's. I also weighed the two with converters in and transfer case adaptors. The 60e came in at 185lbs and the 80e came in at 240lbs. Only 65 lbs difference and the 80e has a large +3 qt pan attached with fluid in it so the difference is probably closer to 50lbs stock to stock.
     
  2. bggrnchvy

    bggrnchvy Registered Member

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    Little wire splice.
    [​IMG]
    So go to the connector and find the 2 wires, cut them, cross them and solder them.
    [​IMG]
    Swapped in some small wires to make up the length, tinned, soldered and covered the connections. Then just buttoned the harness back up. Simple enough.
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    There is a second speedo input on the 80e and for a 2wd it is required that you wire that into the PCM. However on a 4wd, the speedo located in the t-case takes the place of this unit so no other wiring is required, at least thats what I have read.
    [​IMG]
    Bolted to the motor and the flywheel.
    I finished building and fitting 2 of the mounts, just need to get the t-case in so I know where to put them in the frame.
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    Of course the transfer case was being a pain to fit though. I can't have it sitting to low otherwise my flat belly won't work so the floorboards needed to make a little more room.
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    Minisledges help.
    I spent the time this morning to heft the 241 back on the truck. There's plenty of room for it now and I can get a flush plate under it without issue it looks like(the picture is deceiving).
    [​IMG]
    I also got to putting the mounts on the new set of crossmembers, took a little finangling to mate a 2x3" peice of tube to a 2.5" long bushing sleeve and still have room for the frame side bracket. I think I have a system now so it won't take to long to do the the other 3(maybe 5 if I decide I really want to).
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Yes the tube is a little rusty, but Ill take it at scrap prices($.45/lb) and just spend a little time with a knotted wire wheel to clean it up.

    I got the M10 10.9 bolts I needed to fully mount the tranny and t-case together, I hate metric bolts, especially needing to get more of them. Fixed the broken fitting, note to self not even Kynar likes 80lbs of metal resting on it.
    Spent some time on the crossmember, this one has mounts up front for the tranny mount. The elbow, I couldn't tell you, I was going to use 2 of them and mount the tranny to that but I scrapped that idea for simpler and I thought it need more bracing:middle:
    [​IMG]
    The mounts are in the frame and burned in, still need to make the other set and second crossmember and then turn the pair into an integrated assembly.
    The cooler showed up, the dollar is for scale. This one is nice in that it has a thermal bypass as well, the 40k rating helps too.
    [​IMG]
    The external filter and temp guage came as well, once again, dollar bill for scale. Not sure if I really care for the gauge so I may just buy an Autometer unit and put it in a pillar mount.
    [​IMG]

    Made the second crossmember and burned in the second set of brackets. Hopefully tomorrow I can make the pair into 1.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    No more jack's holding up the drivetrain and the tires are finally aired up!
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    Belly pan main structure built and I started building the plate supports.
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    Got the new transmission mount in so the unit is held in tight.

    [​IMG]
    I added some more bracing for the plate to the crossmember, Im limited in placement with the exhaust haning down to clear the intermediate shaft but its working out.
    [​IMG]
    I also got the mount for the pillow block centered up and welded in and the block bolted together.
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    I ran out of tube Ineeded for the bracing so I took apart the grill shell to mount the cooler. While I was in there I saw leaves in between the condensor and the radiator, well there was something else hiding in there too. I pulled it off and put it in Gladware and shook it apart to find larvae, a spider and one live wasp. Creepy.
     
  3. bggrnchvy

    bggrnchvy Registered Member

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    [​IMG]
    I pulled the stock tranny cooler off and found the size difference funny.
    [​IMG]
    I got them both mounted back up, ports on top and the sides of course with the fin and plate coolers. The stock tranny cooler is going to be my new power steering cooler for the assist.
    [​IMG]
    I did decide to put the thermal bypass in to let the tranny heat faster to operating temp, especially with the huge amount of fluid.
    And thats where Im at this point, thought Id share some pictures and tech.
     
  4. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    where did you get the thermal bypass from? thats a trick little piece
     
  5. Cajun4x4

    Cajun4x4 1/2 ton status

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    top notch work as always kyle

    and welcome to the site... finaly [​IMG]
     
  6. MattK

    MattK 1/2 ton status

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    beef!
     
  7. bggrnchvy

    bggrnchvy Registered Member

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    I ordered the cooler with the bypass, its an option on this cooler apparently.

    Oh and Drew, I may not have been active, but Ive been registered longer than you:D Thanks for the welcome though.
     
  8. sweetk30

    sweetk30 professional hooker Premium Member

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    sweet write up!!!

    BUT RESIZE THE PICS!!!
     
  9. bggrnchvy

    bggrnchvy Registered Member

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    Is there a size limit Im unaware of or personal preference?
     
  10. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    the average resolution people run is 1024x768. Not everyone runs 1600x1200+ like me... I usually make me pictures 800x600 so it fits on 1024x768 screens. For myself, the size is fine ;)
     
  11. bggrnchvy

    bggrnchvy Registered Member

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    I understand the resolution thing, but thats a case by case basis. If individuals are still running 800x600 on 13" monitors that becomes their own personal issue. The rest of us like our 1680x1050 or whichever its set at.

    So in summary, the pictures are large, but not huge. I can't please everyone, but if there is a rule that says I can't have them at whatever resolutoin or higher Ill change them.


    Edited to more articulately express my feelings on the subject.
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2006
  12. bggrnchvy

    bggrnchvy Registered Member

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    Only a little bit has gotten done the last couple days, I just haven't had much time to do work and I need some tools back before I can get to much farther.

    I mounted the trans filter, I swapped out the larger filter for this more compact one. Took me a little bit to locate a unit that was 3/4"-16 and had the same seal size, but apprently this unit is fairly commonly used in the aftermarket. Best of all these filters are all of $3. I didn't want to drill more holes in the frame so the mount is held fast to a plate via some bolts that are welded to the plate and tacked(yes, apprently with steel wire and c25 I can tack steel and Al together, just not very strongly Im sure). Then I welded the plate to the frame. Space made avaliable by the now defunct idler arm and mount.
    [​IMG]
    Need to finish the soft line to the filter and back to the transmission.

    I also had to swap the coolers as the power steering cooler should be on the side with the pump and box while the tranny cooler should be on the side of the tranny cooler lines. Plumbing is proving to be a thorn in my side.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2006
  13. thezentree

    thezentree 3/4 ton status

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    Sweet write up. That's something I've thought about doing to my truck whenever I grenede my 60e.

    I saw your truck somewhere a while back (pavementsucks.com maybe?) and I've been trying to find it because it's badass. Glad you showed up here :waytogo:

    Semi-hijack: Are you running any kind of swaybar?
     
  14. bggrnchvy

    bggrnchvy Registered Member

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    No sway bar, the body roll is kind of fun.
     
  15. bggrnchvy

    bggrnchvy Registered Member

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    Not much progress but its almost done. Got the inspection cover in, GM part number 15671930. I bought it from another parts store for $58, not sure if its cheaper from GM or not but its a way to get it.
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    Also finished up making new transmission cooler hardlines. Yes I ****ed up and left one of the fittings in the bends, oh well, I only needed one of them.
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    Actually I don't think you can see that mistake in the picture, oh well.

    Also put the grill shell back on, fit without any trimming at all over the new cooler and moved tranny turned PS cooler.
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    [​IMG]
    Also found this laying at SIMMS in the used pile of stuffs. ~$40 for a 10sqft section of .200" plate sounded good even if it was a little heavier than I wanted.
     
  16. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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    44.84 shipped to your door through www.gmpartsdirect.com (their shipping is ALWAYS 20% of the price)
     
  17. bggrnchvy

    bggrnchvy Registered Member

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    Wish Id known the part number and could have gotten it from them then.

    although shipping isn't alwasy 20% the price over there, I made a $27 order and shipping and handling was $12 and the parts might weigh 6oz total and take up 10cu in:mad:
     
  18. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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    i was mistaken, their shipping price is 30%, not 20%. they sell it to you at dealer wholesale, which is exactly 30% more than what a dealer would pay through GM SPAC. occasionally you can find a local dealer that will sell it to you at that price, and SPAC doesnt charge for shipping to the dealer so long as its not overnighted.

    they may up the percentage on small orders like that. i've never ordered anything under $200, and never paid more than 30%.
     
  19. bggrnchvy

    bggrnchvy Registered Member

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    [​IMG]
    Finished the bracing of the crossmember. Hoping to have it running early next week.
     
  20. bggrnchvy

    bggrnchvy Registered Member

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    Apparently I do need the extra sensor. It is not a VSS sensor though as it had been explained to me, it is a turbine speed sensor. I ordered the metri-pack connector from GM and the got the pins from GMPD.

    Really simple, just take apart the connector at the computer, make the metripack connector and pins connecot with 2 lengths of 20 guage wire and solder the joints for trouble free running. Use a pin to poke holes in the rubber weatherpoof sleeve and push the pins through and they lock in place. then I just loomed the wires and zip tied the loom to another headed back that way.
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    Pin connector
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    Computor connector with new wires added, notice the red and black wires unloomed at this point.

    Had the rear driveline shortened and its ready to go.
     

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