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$7.99 Starter Solenoid Relocation

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by CooknwithGas, Nov 1, 2002.

  1. CooknwithGas

    CooknwithGas 1/2 ton status

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    Here's a low-cost but effective way to relocate your starter solenoid. Go to your nearest auto parts store and ask for a "Bronco" Starter Solenoid for a V8 Bronco. I paid $7.99 at Autozone.

    Crawl up under your truck and remove the starter (two bolts) and let it drop as far as it will go. This is a pain when you have all the wires connected to the starter.

    Remove ALL the wires from the starter and pull them up on top of the engine near the firewall. Pull the battery cble up toward the battery. Just cut the smaller wires if you have to and pull them up top.

    Mount the new solenoid to the firewall (I chose an area in front of the passenger side.

    Run your battery cable to the solenoid and connect it to one side - also connect all of the accessory wires that came off your starter. You may have to install some new lug connectors - the crimp kind are fine. (These wires are easy to identify if you cut them - they all had the big lug hole connectors)

    Attach the ignition wire to the small lug on your new solenoid (The instructions tell you which one - it's the silver one). It's easy to tell which wire goes here because it's the one with the small lug connector.

    If you don't have HEI ignition there will also be a small lug wire going to the distributor or coil. This wire will be connected to the copper lug (small) on your new solenoid.

    Get a battery cable that has the lug hole on both ends - 4 feet or so should do it. Connect this to the other big lug on your new solenoid.

    Now here's the only part that takes a few minutes. Your starter has two big lugs and two little ones. The big lug that had the battery wire connected to it needs to now be jumpered to your ingition lug. I used a small peice of steel with two holes drilled in it - one big hole for the large lug and a little one. Remove the nuts on the two lugs and install this steel jumper, then put the nuts back on.

    Now put the starter back under your truck and install the new battery cable (coming from your new solenoid) to the large lug on the starter (the one that had the battery cable connected) - you should now only have ONE wire going to your starter. Install the starter - making sure the new wire is routed away from any exhaust piping.

    Now you have it. A clean setup with only one wire going to your starter. Don't worry with that metal tube below used to keep the wiring harness away from your exhaust, just cut the wires and pull them through.

    Mine works great and it also makes removing the starter a breeze now because I don't have the whole wiring harness routed down there.

    Let me know if you have any questions. I'll send pictures to anyone interested in seeing the application installed. I also have the instructions to the Summit kit if anyone wants to see this.


    _________________
     
  2. TrcksR4ME

    TrcksR4ME 1/2 ton status

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    cool deal, I spent 24.95 for a kit from summit racing to do the same thing /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif, but on the otherhand, without their instructions I would never have figured it out /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif If only you had written this 3 weeks ago LOL /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
     
  3. CooknwithGas

    CooknwithGas 1/2 ton status

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    Actually thanks may be in order to you. Had I not seen mention of the relocation kit here on this board, I wouldn't have thought of trying it myself!
     
  4. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    There was a link posted with a schematic on some Nova board a year or two ago. I used that to do my own solenoid relocation. Your explanation is just as good though, and it is a very worthwhile mod. Having the solenoid relocated lets me start the truck with zero issues even hot and with headers./forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

    Rene
     
  5. CooknwithGas

    CooknwithGas 1/2 ton status

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    Rene:

    There is one thing about this that makes me wonder - since we have installed the hot wire from the new solenoid right back where it was when it was from the battery, this seems to be a two-solenoid set-up. What I mean is that I don't see where it will help you with the Hot-start problem, because you are using the second solenoid to activate the thrust bearing to engage the starter.

    Here's what I tried first. I hooked it up everything just as described, except I connected the wire to the starter on the other big lug - my idea was to bypass the existing solenoid.

    Here's what happened - I turned the key and the starter would spin, but it wouldn't engage the thrust bearing so the engine didn't spin.

    So I just went back to the originial location for the hot wire and jumpered the large lug to the ignition lug.

    It seems to me that we now have two solenoids in series - the only real advantage is that there is only one wire going to the starter now and it is a lot cleaner and easer to remove the starter or add-on any electric devices to the truck.

    If it somehow keeps the second solenoid from locking up when hot, great, but I don't see how.

    Your 2 cents on this issue?
     
  6. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    The solenoid on the starter will heat soak and inhibit how much power makes it to the start motor itself. All it is now being used for is to energize the mechanism that engages the starter pinion. With the remote solenoid all the available amperage is going to the start motor.

    When I first did the mod I had a fairly weak starter and it would never start when hot. After the remote solenoid it would start when hot even though it still didn't spin really great. I noticed a big improvement even with a crappy starter. I recently replaced my starter with a Bosch rebuilt unit and it spins much faster than any other Chev starter I've ever had...which I think the remote solenoid has a lot to do with.

    By bolting on the piece of steel with two holes at the solenoid lugs you bypassed it's function...so you're not running two solenoids in series.

    Rene
     
  7. CooknwithGas

    CooknwithGas 1/2 ton status

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    Since the metal part that is bolted to the solenoid is between the large lug and the smaller, ignition lug, I'm not convinced it is bypassing the original solenoid. I'll take your word for it that this set-up works better, but I think in order to bypass the solenoid, I would need to put a jumper from one large lug to the other large lug (I may do this and see what happens).

    What is the part number for the Bosch starter and where did you find it?

    Thanks.
     
  8. Yukon Jack

    Yukon Jack 1/2 ton status

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    I did the Summit remote selenoid last fall. Works great, didn't notice that I let the battery cable (going from selenoid to selenoid) touch the frame. 9 months later it rubbed through the insulation and shorted. Got it fixed a couple days ago and when I fired the truck up, the wire from to the alternator went up in smoke. Bummer.
     
  9. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Canadian Tire up here sells Bosch rebuilt stuff. It's like an Autozone I guess and a lot of the stuff they sell is crap. I do trust Bosch products though and the price was really good. It cost me $53 (US $$) and is guaranteed for 5 years.

    As near as I can figure looking at the bill the Bosch part number is 3510S...

    Rene
     
  10. ben427

    ben427 1/2 ton status

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    haha, you mean crappy trash, not canadian tire /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif, I had a clutch from there and it lasted one run, got wet and tore it up. got a hayes now.
     
  11. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    You are passing power through 2 solenoids. However, with the stock setup, you're trying to energize the coil of the solenoid on the starter via a 10 or 12 gauge wire that's routed through the ignition switch and then back down to the starter. With your new setup, it's getting power via a 4 gauge cable that routes through the Ford solenoid and straight to the starter. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif So there's plenty of power there now to get the solenoid engaged.

    I think you'll get a lot of grinding if you wire the 2 large lugs on the solenoid together though. On a GM starter, the solenoid also engages the starter with the ring gear teeth. It throws out the starter gear, and then at the very end of it's travel it connects power to the starter motor. If you wire those 2 lugs together, then the starter motor will begin spinning before the solenoid has engaged the starter gear with the ring gear. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     
  12. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    'Cambodian Tire'
    'Ukranian Tire'

    'Crap tire'...heard em all and it's mostly true. I never buy their 'house brand' of anything...guranteed to fail or under perform. My starter gave up while we were on holidays and I was only 5 minutes from a Canadian Tire...and the rest should be obvious.

    Rene
     
  13. big d

    big d 1/2 ton status

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    hey chief, i wouldnt mind some pics, please. i been wanting to do the same. what year of bronco solenoid did you request ? thanks. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  14. LKJR

    LKJR 1/2 ton status

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    just go to the parts store and tell them you want a ford solenoid they will know what you need
     
  15. big d

    big d 1/2 ton status

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    thanks.
     
  16. CooknwithGas

    CooknwithGas 1/2 ton status

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    I told the guy 1985. They can't do anything without a year, make and model. The guy didn't have a clue about what I was doing even though I explained it twice. The only tricky part is connecting the battery lug to the ignition lug on your starter. Piece of cake really, just need a small piece of metal.

    I'll try to take some pictures this evening and send them to you tomorrow.

    Good luck.
     
  17. big d

    big d 1/2 ton status

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    cool, thanks. looking forward to the pics. many thanks.
     
  18. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    If you can find some thick copper it will drop less voltage than steel.
     
  19. CooknwithGas

    CooknwithGas 1/2 ton status

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    Darren:

    Here are the pictures I promised. Let me know if the link does not work. :

    http://www.cooknwithgas.com/Startersolenoid2.jpg

    I was in such a hurry to see if it worked, I didn't get a picture of the starter connections, but the photo should explain what I did.

    Good luck.
     

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