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72 K5 ujoints

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by james19, Jun 11, 2001.

  1. james19

    james19 Newbie

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    I am having a problem with the upper ujoint just out of the transfer case. We have a 8" suspension lift and 4" body lift to run 42" Super Swampers. The lower u joint at the differential is ok and the two posts that are pressed into the upper yoke are ok, but the two caps that are u-bolted to the transfercase continue to melt down. I could use a good plan. Thanks, Jim
     
  2. Steve_Chin

    Steve_Chin 1/2 ton status

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    I wouldn't even mess with stock size universal joints on a rig with tires that big. I'd put a 1350 series universal joint on the pinion's input shaft and a 1320 series CV-joint setup on the front of the rear driveshaft. That will mean you have to make a custom driveshaft for the 1320 and 1350 U-joints and put custom yokes on the transfer case and pinion...
     
  3. Chris Demartini

    Chris Demartini 1/2 ton status

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    <font color=blue>Where did you find a 4" body lift? Is your t case dropped? If not you will need to lower it. You may also need a CV rear driveshaft.</font color=blue>


    [image]http://bbs.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/53-288682-mudpit3.jpg[/image]
     
  4. Ryan_B

    Ryan_B Registered Member

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    I definately agree about the CV joint for the rear driveshaft!
    The CV joint takes your driveline angle and divides it into two rather than with a single u joint at the top of the driveshaft. Way better for driveline angles. And it takes a lot of vibration out of the drivetrain also. Especially if you have a new driveshaft made, and balanced.
    I would reccomend going the biggest and beefiest driveshaft as I did on my '72 K/5. Especially if your running 42" tires!
    Go with a 1350 series CV joint right off the transfer case, and a 1350 U joint for the pinion yoke. 1350 series cv's are quite a bit more expesnive than 1320 cv's but the 1350 is for a true 1Ton application so I was told. Bigger,stronger, more expensive, but well worth it. Do it once right and not have to worry about it.

    I went to South Bay Driveline and Steven Johnson does damn good driveshaft fabrication.
    When I went to 8" rear springs 6" front springs, I had new driveshafts made.
    1350 series CV joint, plus the flange for the 205 t-case, and a 3" diam. polished driveshaft for the rear. It uses 12 pt. 12mm. bolts.
    I also called up Mark williams enterprises and got a custom yoke for the 12 bolt rearend to make that pinion yoke u joint a 1350 series also.
    It won't be cheap though.
    Call me crazy, but I think I have a little over $700 invested in my rear driveshaft alone.
    ...And I'm only running 35" tires!

    You ever heared about breaking the upper U joint and pole vaulting your truck?
    I've got plans for a driveshaft hoop also.
     
  5. HarryL

    HarryL 1/2 ton status

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    James, do exactly what Steve Chin recommended. I'm running a total of 10" lift on my 72 K5. I've got 8" leafs in the front, stock leafs, shackle reversal and 4" block in the rear. I've got D44/14 bolt axles, and am running 38" gumbos. I am running the 1350s and the CV joints front and rear drive shafts. Not one problem (yet!).

    I'm running a 454/TH350/NP205. My tranny and TC have not been dropped.

    HarryL
    SLC
     

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