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'72 Transplant Progress

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by rudycentral, Jun 8, 2005.

  1. rudycentral

    rudycentral Registered Member

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    I have learned a very valuable lesson. A 7 quart oil pan cannont be installed on an engine when you are inserting the engine and transmission. I believe that the crossmember must be removed. As I did not want to go there I switched back to the stock pan that I had on my rebuilt motor. It turns out I may have had time to remove the x-member, but I had the help then.

    I had the tranmission and xfer case rebuilt. The trans was cracked and there was a big pile of stuff glued to the bottom of the pan. The frictions were disintegrated. The trans guy showed me and stated that I was lucky to make it back from Nebraska. This went in with the engine.

    The xfer case had a shift fork that was missing an end and 1 gear that was chipped all to hell. The rear yoke had cracked and was hanging on by 3 bolts - that needed replacing. It got the bigger yoke and I had to find the u-joint that fit small on one side and big on the other.

    I also had a b... of a time getting the transfer case back in. I had to rip the crossmember out - the only thing I could think of. While that was out it got stripped and painted. It almost looks new. My wife and I heaved the xfer case up in there with 4 jackstands and a few 2x4's. Damm thing dropped a few times and gouged the driveway pretty good. It is now attached to the trans and supported by the jackstands and 2x4's. I will be putting in the xmember from below shortly as I have just gotten the poly mounts for the trans and torque mounts.

    As soon as I get that cross member in it will be time to start it up. I am waiting on naming her after she moves. I was also thinking of new colors. The stock axels will be serviced soon too. I would also love to get disc breaks - any suggestions?

    100_1564_1.JPG
     
  2. POWERMAD

    POWERMAD 1/2 ton status

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    I just got mine in, I made a post about that pan and the x-member.
    The X-member has to come out.
    And I also found that removing the 1st style starter with that pan is a PITA.
    Had to drop the exhaust and the driveline to get it out. Wound up scratching the crap out of the pan too.
     
  3. steve_kibbe

    steve_kibbe 1/2 ton status

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    I would try to find another D44 and strip the parts off it for your disk brakes. A friend of mine just got all new stuff and ended up having over $500 in parts, then he paid $200 to have it all installed. He didn't want to get used stuff or do the work himself though.

    Just a thought :D
     
  4. 69TowRig

    69TowRig 1/2 ton status

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    Location:
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    I'm still trying to finish the discs on mine. That $$$ estimate is pretty accurate.

    Here's my tally so far:

    $115 for spindles, knuckes, and backing plates off an '82 Corp 10-bolt.
    $100 for calipers and good pads (no cores to give back hence more $$$)
    $100 for new ball joints and spindle bearings/seals
    $26 for a new passenger side u-joint and wheel bearing seals
    $35 for a booster/MC/prop valve (great Ebay score)

    I still need a new hard-line for the front (power brakes used a smaller line and fitting), and new flex hoses (can't find anything off the shelf that fits, will probably spend $100 on braided stainless lines)

    I know I have seen a few 71-72 4x4 disc axles sell for <$300. There's a ton of work involved with physically swapping all the parts and I wished I had found one before I dove into this. You won't save much $$$ but lots of your time.
     
  5. rudycentral

    rudycentral Registered Member

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    Thanks

    I am stuck with that stock pan now, until I can convice myself to lift the engine and take it out - not likely anytime soon.

    Thanks for the replys about the disc brakes - I dont think I have the time or the $$ for that now either.

    Anyone got a good source for Blazer seat belts?
     
  6. rudycentral

    rudycentral Registered Member

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    Post Motor Swap 1st Test drive

    I took her out of the driveway the other day under power. I finally got all the leaks tied up and the carb idle mix setup pretty good.
    It shift pretty hard with the kit I had installed. The vaccuume secondary carb seems to come on kinda late, but it works well when it does.

    While on the test drive around the block My fan munched some wires up front :(... So now need to replace those.
    Got the grill on, and it almost looks like It did when I picked it up, exept the bondo that decided to start peeling off. - I will be visiting my friends dad the body guru who does frame-offs in his spare time.

    I will be putting in the 4 point harnesses tomorrow. I got the snap in 3" lap belt with detachable 2" shoulder straps that are also snap in floor mount. I will be drillen some holes for these...

    I purchased the RJS belts (http://www.rjsracing.com/offroad.html) I got them here: http://shop.store.yahoo.com/wescoperformance/ofsebe.html
    They were pretty cheap compaired to the stock type 3 point belts. I figured better "safe" than sorry.

    Next things are to tweak the timing, re-spring the carbs vac secondary, put in the passenger seat and take the truck to the Woodward Dream Cruise.
    Does anyone know where I could get a rattlecan of paint that is Ochre?
     

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