Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

8 lug 10B -vs- 8 lug D44 (strength Q's)

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Geargrinder, Sep 20, 2005.

  1. Geargrinder

    Geargrinder 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2005
    Posts:
    258
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Medford Oregon
    I have the 10B (w/mini spool) in the front of the Burb, I don't wheel the hell out of it or anything, but I know I need more trength. I DON'T have the $$ to get a D60 so I plan on building on what I have, if it's worth it. I'm sure I could round up a D44 for it if it is THAT much better than the 10B. But I have no clue if it's any better or not :confused: Any input on this would help, I'm all :ears:
     
  2. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2001
    Posts:
    3,039
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Clinton, IA USA
    The D44 and 10 bolt are about equal in strength. That is, as long as you have the later D44. The early ones used the small 260x u-joints. :D
     
  3. BigOrange90Jimmy

    BigOrange90Jimmy 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    May 24, 2002
    Posts:
    2,923
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Wilmington, NC
    i'm going to agree with Beast here. they're equal in strength.

    some say the 10 bolt was better when they went to 30 spline shaft in '90, but in reality, it isn't. all they did to accomplish the addition of 2 extra splines was to remove more material from the carrier. in turn all that did was make the carrier weaker.

    all the upgrades in the world won't make the 10 bolt comparable to the STOCK D60. even more so when you say you have a spool.

    a stock D60 can be found from $300-900, depending on your area and how good you are at searching and dealing.

    you will easily spend that much upgrading your 10b to even have remotely comparable strength.
     
  4. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2001
    Posts:
    8,972
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Peoria, AZ
    A 10 bolt is basically the exact same strength as a D44. They both share the same failure points so it is basically a wash. Some people will tell you a D44 is stronger because it has more splines and has a slightly larger ring gear but that is a wasted point.

    Both the 10 bolt and D44 will most likely fail at the ujoint, neck down on the inner axle, or the stubshaft. Well the stubs are exactly the same, the ujoint is exactly the same, and both axles neck down at the same location.

    If anything a 10 bolt has one advantage over the D44. The parts are newer and have probably seen less of there fatigue life used then D44 parts. 10 bolts are also more common then D44's in most wrecking yards and cheaper to buy parts for used.

    Harley
     
  5. Geargrinder

    Geargrinder 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2005
    Posts:
    258
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Medford Oregon
    Thanks for the info :waytogo: I will still keep a look out for a cheep D60, but untill then I will baby my 10B and upgrade as needed :tongue1:
     
  6. Leper

    Leper 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2005
    Posts:
    4,437
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Dallas Baby!!!!
    Cheap D60..... I'm always looking for a cheap D60. The cheapest I have ever found was 900.00 for it and a 14b ff both geared at 410. The normal price for that setup is about 1500.00. Around here anyway. Wheel what you have as it is right now until it breaks. If you don't have the money for a D60 when your current one breaks, buy another one for 100.00 and wheel it untill it breaks. Repeat
     
  7. Geargrinder

    Geargrinder 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2005
    Posts:
    258
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Medford Oregon
    Yeah, that's what Iv'e been doing :rolleyes: So far it's been:
    1) P. side U-joint & inner
    2) cross pin & spider gears (and I replaced with a mini spool)
    3) pinion yoke & front U joint
    Iv'e just replaced the auto hubs with man. hubs, so I'm hoping that might help a little. No more shock loads going from L to R :o I gess I shouldn't complain to much, it's eazy to work on, and parts a a dime a doz. @ the 'yard :p:
     

Share This Page