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8 Lug Conversion Bearing Question

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Rob 85K5, Jan 13, 2003.

  1. Rob 85K5

    Rob 85K5 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I am converting my 10 bolt to 8 lug. The spindles match. Can I use the bearings from the 6 lug in the 8 lug hubs with new races, or are they completely a different part.
     
  2. 4X4HIGH

    4X4HIGH 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Second design parts are the same between 6 and 8 lug.
     
  3. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    Better off going and getting new bearings unless the ones in the 6 lugger were almost new. Don't cheap out on bearings. If you fry one you are SOL. Do it right the first time and not have to do it a second.
     
  4. supersize75

    supersize75 1/2 ton status

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    so how much are the bearings/races for the d44 or 10 bolt I am doing the same thing.
     
  5. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    I went to Napa and I spend like $100 on bearing and races if I remember right. Turned out that Autozone had Timken races for 1/2 the money of Napa. I don't know there bearing prices. I got the wrong outer races from Napa at $8 a pop and I ruined one. I drove out one of the old races and it had the Timken number on it so I went to Autozone and the race I needed there was $4.
     
  6. MJB774X

    MJB774X 1/2 ton status

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    the spindles are the same(6 & 8 lug)? so to convert to 8 lug you just need to get the hub and rotor? what about the backing plates? are total diameter of the rotors the same? I'm interested because I am undergoing the same with my 44 and I was told everything from the knuckle out has to be changed, that would be way cool if I didn't have purchase all the stuff that I was told.
     
  7. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    If you have a second design axle and are switching to a a second design 8 lug outers then all you need is the 8 lug rotors, backing plates, and bearing hub. Also good things to change are the bearings, races, brake pads and wheel studs. You will also need the 9/16 lug nuts.
     
  8. MJB774X

    MJB774X 1/2 ton status

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    what do you mean by second axle design? 10 bolts only?
     
  9. Rebel88

    Rebel88 1/2 ton status

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    this comes from the Wes(ThatK30Guy) library:

    Here, read this:

    GM has two different types of axles: the "first design" and the "second design". For those who dont know the difference, the "first" goes from 73-76. The "second" goes from 77 to 91. Some differences are:

    1. Backing plates are ALL diffferent. Both 1/2 and 3/4 ton for both designs are NOT the same thing. 3/4 tons are larger diameter than the 1/2 tons. There are currently 6 different types of backing plates. The 1/2 ton has the 73-76, 77-80, and 81-91. 3/4 ton is the same years, but only bigger around.

    2. Bearing hub and rotors are different. There are 4 types. 73-76 use a smaller wheel bearing on both the 1/2 and 3/4 ton. The 1/2 ton bearing hub is an internal drive. 3/4 tons were available in both the internal and external drives. 77 and newer bearing hubs are the same size wheel bearing. 1/2 and 3/4 tons are all internal drives. The differences in the rotor diameter is the fact that the 3/4 tons are larger around than the 1/2 tons. This is why the backing plates are larger around than the 1/2 tons. If you use a 1/2 ton backing plate on a 3/4 ton rotor, the caliper will NOT even align up with the bolts. If the 1/2 ton rotor is used with the 3/4 ton backing plates, the caliper will NOT have enough pad contact with the rotor.

    3. Spindles. 73-76 are one type only. They are "first design" small bearings. 1/2 and 3/4 ton spindles are interchangable. 77-91 spindles are "second design" and all interchangable between 1/2 and 3/4 tons. You cannot use a first design spindle with a second design bearing hub & rotor. The hub will wobble in place. If the second design spindle is used with a first design bearing hub, the hub will not even go on at all.

    4. D44 and 10B axle shafts are not interchangable. The D44 shafts measure: right - 36.13"
    left - 18.31"
    10B shafts measure: right - 35.46"
    left - 19.15"

    5. Steering knuckles. D44's have the infamous "flat top" knuckles on the passenger side. These are good for the crossover steering for where the steering arm is mounted on top of the knuckle after machine work and drilling has been done. The 10B knuckles have NO flat surface whatsoever. Machine work would be excessive to make the crossover work and therefore would be easier and cheaper to locate the correct knuckle off a D44.

    All in all, when doing a swap like this, try to round up the parts off one truck to use on the other. Such parts to swap over would be: backing plates, spindles, bearing hub & rotors, and if desired for crossover steering, the knuckles.

    The knuckles do NOT need to be changed if you do not plan on the crossover steering.

    It all boils down to this: D44 and 10B parts ARE interchangable from the knuckles out. Anything else from the knuckles in is NOT interchangable.

    ALL calipers on both D44 and 10B are compatible with either axle. Even the first and second design axles are compatible with BOTH 1/2 and 3/4 ton calipers. So, whatever swap you plan on doing, you can retain your stock calipers.
    When stepping up to the big D60, this is a whole different ball game. Nothing is interchangable from the D44 and 10B to the D60.




    check out this writeup and it should answer any other questions you have 8 lug writeup

    that should help you out

    Later
     
  10. MJB774X

    MJB774X 1/2 ton status

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    THANKS FOR THE INFO! very informative /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
     

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