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8 or 10 inch lift...

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by reddog64, Aug 27, 2001.

  1. reddog64

    reddog64 1/2 ton status

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    Ok... it's not a blazer... but I do have a blazer... it's just on hold now... I got a 78 P/U longbed... (same year as the blazer) and it's getting close to time to lift it... What's involved on a 8 inch lift... Remember it's a longbed... I know a 6 inch isnt too bad with a longbed... My blazer has a 4 inch lift 3 inch body... I know I could do 8 inch front springs 4 inch rear springs with a 4 inch shackle flip kit... and some shims... of course brake lines and steering would be fixed too... what about a 10 inch lift....??? same problems... drivelines??? please advise...

    [image]http://www.inhomenetworking.com/images/littleblue.jpg[/image]See me at <a target="_blank" href=http://www.inhomenetworking.com/78jimmy.htm>http://www.inhomenetworking.com/78jimmy.htm</a>
     
  2. Zepplin

    Zepplin 1/2 ton status

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    I already have 6" springs in the rear and plan on doing the 4" shackle flip in the rear. So I am basically looking at a new set of 10" front springs, new shocks, longer brake lines, longer driveshafts front and rear with the rear being a CV style driveshaft. Plus, I will be definately getting the crossover steering. So, I will need to ge a 2wd steering box.

    On your truck you can probably get away with regular lengthened rear driveshaft with a slip yoke in it. But, I would get bigger u-joints say 1310's or 1350's.

    Basically, you are looking at modifying the same components between a 8 and a 10 inch lift. If you're not doing the cross over steering you will need a raised steering arm, modified dropped drag link and maybe a dropped pitman arm for the 10". But, I suggest you do the crossover steering. I can' t wait to put mine on.
    Have fun installing yours!

    74 Blazer
    Zepplin
    Check out my Blazer <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/zepplin1976>http://community.webshots.com/user/zepplin1976</a>
     
  3. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    My friend has a 12" Superlift on his longbed K10 (that he converted into a K20). He also has a 3" body lift.

    It has a 350/SM 465/NP 205 and he destroys it often. I have watched him wrap it around a tree, break the front shackle, front driveshaft, rear u joint in the front of the shaft, and the slip yoke part of the rear shaft all in about 30 seconds.

    He has also managed to break his 465/205 adapter before, but from what I hear that's pretty common.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  4. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Oh yeah, and the dropped drag link is a definite no-go from what I've been told. By looking at it, I'd personally not bend the drag link, I'd rather have a lower pitman arm or a higher steering arm, or a combination of both.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  5. michaelm

    michaelm 1/2 ton status

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    i have 10" superlift springs.
    they (and the 12") are too short putting the shackle at the worst angle that it could be. they ride terrible, and contrary to the 'made in usa' claims are imported from canada. i have added teflon buttons between the leaves and will be removing leaves to see if i can get some improved ride but i cant think of anything short of a new mainleaf to fix the shackle angle. as i am already too tall (headlights are over 55") i fear a longer main might result in yet more hieght.
    you will have to develop a relationship with a spring shop to get good results with big lift leaf springs i think.
    also with any leaf spring chev lift you have to add longer rear shackles to keep the spring from pounding the frame.
     
  6. michaelm

    michaelm 1/2 ton status

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    the factory coupler between the tierod ends on the factory steering is incredible flimsy so i would bet the aftermarket bent ones are tougher. if you need to improve the tie rod angles to centre them i wouldnt fear that. i think that you have to fab a drag link coupler to get it the correct length with full thread engagement anyway.
     

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