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82 K5 with rod knock

Discussion in '1982-Present GM Diesel' started by DeadDiesel, Feb 7, 2002.

  1. DeadDiesel

    DeadDiesel Newbie

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    So after spending $2000 over the past 6 months fixing up an $800 basket case Blazer with about an 11 inch lift, it developed rod knock--extreme internal resistance upon startup, and a loud banging sound when it's running. My question is, what might others suggest doing with this beast? I got a few great off road trips in, and the thing was awesome!

    My mechanic estimated $4000 to outfit it with a rebuilt. My question is, should I junk it, sell it, or fix it?

    Any estimates or offers? (I'm in the San Francisco bay area)

    And now the pictures, for those interested:

    http://home.attbi.com/~maherauf/InTheMud.JPG
    http://home.attbi.com/~maherauf/CartmanRules.JPG
    http://home.attbi.com/~maherauf/CartmanUphill.JPG
    http://home.attbi.com/~maherauf/IntheMud_Omigod.JPG
    http://home.attbi.com/~maherauf/InTheMud4.JPG
     
  2. Danno

    Danno 1/2 ton status

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    Check out this article over at TheDieselPage.com...

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.62-65-dieselpage.com/features/TheDieselDepot.htm>http://www.62-65-dieselpage.com/features/TheDieselDepot.htm</a>

    1984 K5 Blazer 4x4 Silverado
    6.2L diesel, 700R4, 3.42 gears, 31x10.5" tires
     
  3. DieselDan

    DieselDan 1/2 ton status

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    Well, I would make SURE it's a rod knock. Crack the injector lines loose at the injectors one at a time, while its running, the loss in fuel pressure to make that cylinder go "dead" (yes, it's messy). When you find your offending cylinder (rod), stop the motor and swap the injectors to see if it moves. I had a slight knock that was caused by a bad injector.

    If you're pretty confirmed it's a bad rod (rare in 6.2's) you're next options are: rebuild, replace, swap or junk. If you got the time/place rebuild it (see Northern Auto Parts for cheap rebuild kits). The easiest is to replace it with another 6.2. They're out there, see whats local. Commit the worst of sins and replace it with a gasser (Ahhg, DON'T). Or sell it for scrap and start over again. $4000. sound way too much for a local rebuild, and way too much to dump on a '82 truck (unless you WANT TO). Wipe that "sucker" tatoo off your forehead.

    Real trucks don't have spark plugs!
     
  4. Danno

    Danno 1/2 ton status

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    $4000 is way too much for a local rebuild, most definately.

    If you haven't, check out the article I posted previously in reply to the original question. You'll like what you read, and I think the prices will agree with your wallet:

    "6.2L engines at $1500 plus $400 core charge (one-piece rear seal)"

    No more than $350 shipped freight to anywhere in the 48 states.

    Add in the cost of a rented cherry picker to pull the old engine and install the new one and you'd be well below $4000.

    1984 K5 Blazer 4x4 Silverado
    6.2L diesel, 700R4, 3.42 gears, 31x10.5" tires
     
  5. Robinhood150

    Robinhood150 Newbie

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    Hey all, I'm friends with deaddiesel,

    I hear you when you say $4000 is too much, but would $4000 sound reasonable for a mechanic to do the work? The problem is that we don't have a good place to work on it, it won't fit in the garage.

    And, we would take a long time to work on it because nobody we know has done anything of this magnitude before.

    Thanks
     
  6. DieselDan

    DieselDan 1/2 ton status

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    Well it's been along time since I worked flat rate. I don't have a Maintenance Allocation chart for a blazer handy but a HMMWV is like 32 man-hours (2 mechs @ 16hrs) to Remove &amp; Replace a motor (and its definately more involved than a CUCV). So let's guess at 25 hours (which I think is very generous) to R&amp;R, multiply that times what? $50.00 an hour? $1250 for labor MAX! That would still leave $2750 for a motor, which the garage would purchase from someone else and then mark-up to sell to you (more profit margin). I would be very hesitant to a have a local garage rebuild ANY engine unless they FULLY competent in engine rebuilding (of that type) and have a solid, written warranty to back it up.

    I don't deny any shop a far profit, but I also know how the game is played any how a customer can get royally hosed! Rebuilding engines takes time and "time is money".

    Real trucks don't have spark plugs!
     
  7. calcide

    calcide 1/2 ton status

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    My book (1986) gives the following times:

    Engine R&amp;R (swap engine): 6.4 hours
    Engine R&amp;R and Renew (swap engine plus transfer fuel and electrical components over plus adjustments): 8.4 hours
    Engine R&amp;R and Overhaul: 30.6 hours

    All times are for auto tranny, and add .5 hours for A/C.

    <font color=red>When in doubt, empty the magazine. </font color=red>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/calcide>http://www.geocities.com/calcide</a>
    1983 K5 Blazer Silverado, 6.2L Diesel
     

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