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85 jimmy

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by txguy, Sep 4, 2001.

  1. txguy

    txguy 1/2 ton status

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    I just bought a 85 Jimmy a few weeks ago. I have been reading on here for a few days. First off, this forum is great. More info here than any other single place I have found.

    Has anyone seen these problems? 1st. When I turn on the fan, with or without A/C, my voltmeter gauge has a severe drop. Down to 9 volts most of the time at idle. If I give it a little gas, it goes up some, but not much. The guy I bought it from said the thing will blow fuses on occasion when on "HI" He said he fixed it prior to me buying it. I have not blown any fuses, how ever I am concerned because it seems to drag down the electrical system so much. None of the other cars I have ever had did that. This is with or without headlights on, and no radio running. The A/C compressor being engaged or not does not seem to make a difference. Its just the fan itself that drags down the volts. I have also replaced the alt with a 94 amp one. Then a smaller pulley on the alt. I replaced the fan motor. (Bearing made to much noise, LOTS!) Anyone seen this, have any ideas? What should I look at next. (Also, the fan does stop and start sometimes. When that happens, I hear a click from the driver side kick panel area. Like I said, I did not replace any blown fuses yet. I have been wondering if the fix has been some type of auto resetting fuse just to keep it working. I looked in the right slot however, and the fuse matches the fuse box rating for that slot. This is my main problem right now. (Don't want to have a fire)

    I just had the local http://www.4wheelparts.com/ shop tell me I need to replace my u-joints and my rear( maybe front ) seal on my transfer case. Also, the rear wheels chirp sometimes, and I also hear/feel a good thumb/thud coming from the rear sometimes. Not sure what, if any changes were made to the rear end, after it left the factory. I have been told that it may be going bad, or just need some limited slip fluid. Or a rebuild of the clutch packs/gears for the limited slip mechanisms.

    On the Transfer case, how hard is it replace the front and rear seals? Rebuild it with new bearings, seals?

    Who carries parts for a transfer case? Called a couple places no luck so far. (NP 208 tag on it.) If I pull the plug to fill the transfer case with gear oil, do I fill it til it comes out the fill hole? What is the best type oil to use? I drive it daily and so far have done some offroading, although nothing to major. Would like to go to this place out past Burnet I have heard about, and been to once (hopefully can find), but want to make sure as best I can that what I bought is ready to do so mechanically.

    The nut on the top of the thermostat housing for the cooling system, anyone know what size? I have tried up to 1". Its bigger than that. I am wanting to replace the thermostat. Its the little plastic item with 4(?) hose nipples on the removable housing. Also, what do most of you have for normal gauge temps running down the highway? Mine is 210 to 230 so far. However, running slow, or on trails it runs a lot cooler.

    And lastly, I have an oil pump to replace the one in it with, the gauge bounces all over the place sometimes. Figured I would just replace the oil pump to be on the safe side. I looked under the engine, does not seem to be anything in the way to bad. Is there any hidden surprises?

    Any help suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    sounds like you might have a bad fan clutch. Just try to turn the fan with the truck off. If it turns freely, it needs a clutch. If there is some resistance, but it still turns, its ok.

    The rear wheels chirping......is it usually when you are turning? Mine does the same thing, and I'm pretty sur ethe rear end is on its way out.

    The oil pump problem sounds more like a sender problem. there is a sensor or something like that that connects to the oil pressure gauge, its probably bad. I would try that first, I hear its a PITA to change the oil pump.

    90K5
     
  3. txguy

    txguy 1/2 ton status

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    I have replaced the fan clutch. Made a little difference, not much though. Oil pumps a pain? That sucks. Is it a pain to drop the pan? Or something else in the internals?

    Yeah, its when turning. Its not going to just complete lock up both my rear tires one day going down the highway is it? I am going to get it fixed, might replace it with something better. Although, I need to find out what type of rear end I have. Its a 10 bolt, but I have read there may be more than one OEM type.

    Thanks.
     
  4. Bone85K5

    Bone85K5 1/2 ton status

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    My '85 draws alot of current too when I have the fan on hi. I have a new alternator and battery and it still does it, but the alt keeps up so im not worried.

    The oil pressure and many of the others gauges dont work too good on the older trucks. My oil pressure gauge did the same thing, I have replaced all of them with some from summit and they work perfect.

    My temp is always at 202-210

    Ben
    85 K5 (me)
    91 Sub (Dad)
    90 K5 (Me & Dad)
    95 Sub (Mom)
    96 Tahoe (girlfriend)


    <P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by Bone85K5 on 09/04/01 06:44 PM.</FONT></P>
     
  5. rocko

    rocko 1/2 ton status

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    Hey there.. and welcome..
    Was that your truck I left a business card on near Hasting's in Round Rock? Blue-on-Blue Jimmy w/ the lightbar?
    Just curious..
    To answer your question about the T-case.. you fill it with Transmission fluid.. if it's tagged NP 208..
    And yes.. you can fill it till it leak's out the top of the fill hole..
    My voltage also drop's when I run the ac.. So that might just be one of those quirky things..
    Again.. welcome aboard..
    And welcome to the Madness....

    I haven't failed, I've found 10,000 ways that don't work. www.rocko.rockcrawler.com
     
  6. Can Can

    Can Can Pusher Man Staff Member Super Moderator

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    I can only help with a few of your questions:

    Try adding a bottle of GM limited slip additive to your rear diff- it might eliminate your chirping

    A 208 transfer case uses ATF, not oil. Fill it until the fluid starts to come out of the fill hole. If you're not sure when the fluid was changed last, change it before you go wheeling.

    The plastic assembly on top of the thermostat housing does not have to be removed to change out the thermostat. Just remove the two bolts on either side of the housing to gain access to the thermostat. In case your curious, the plastic thing is a temperature sensor that should be linked by vacuum hoses to a switch that helps the truck read coolant temp. I think it's related to warm-up.

    Before you go to all of the trouble of replacing your oil pump, install a new oil pressure sender. They often go bad and give a false reading on youre gauge, especially when the engine is hot. The sender is located at the back of the engine on the driver's side. It looks like a liitle tin vessel that screws into your block.

    One hint- Fill out your profile a little better. We're a big family here and it's nice to check a guy's profile to learn a little more about him!!!



    <font color=blue> MEAN DAD WITH TWO BAD KIDS<font color=blue>
     
  7. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    Welcome aboard. I too have a question along these lines. My trucks oil pressure gauge reads well over 60 with or without the motor running. Can anyone tell me what in the system is bad, just wondering. thanks
     
  8. Can Can

    Can Can Pusher Man Staff Member Super Moderator

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    I would say that your gauge is bad. There's also a chance the problem could be in your wiring or your sender. Change out the sender to rule out a problem there, then you may have to dig into your dash to check the other things out.........



    <font color=blue> MEAN DAD WITH TWO BAD KIDS<font color=blue>
     
  9. Smitty

    Smitty 1/2 ton status

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    My 82 pegs over 60 once started but drops to 0 when shut down. Changed out the sender with no results so it looks like the gauge will be the next shot. Figured I'd put a manual gauge on it to find out the true reading first. Low on the list for now.

    Smitty
     
  10. txguy

    txguy 1/2 ton status

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    CanmoreK5, thanks for the info. On my thermo housing one of the bolts is below some metal tubing. To get at that bolt, I have to remove that sensor. Or at least it looks that way. If I remember, that tubing goes to the old smog junk.
     
  11. txguy

    txguy 1/2 ton status

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    Hello, thanks. No, that was not mine. I got mine from a guy that works at a auto repair place about a few blocks south of Trudys on Burnett. I have seen a couple for sale since. There was a nice one about a week ago going west from 35, on that road that intersects at the Round Rock Toyota and 35. Its about 2-3 mins from 35. Wanted 3500 for it.

    Sounds like it is one of the things. Looks like I will have to rewire and run some things straight to the battery. Kinda sucks when the radio shuts down at a stop light cause of this. That and all the lights dim at night.
     
  12. Nonesuch

    Nonesuch 1/2 ton status

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    hey tx welcome to ck5! just wondering, how did you found out about this site?
    Justin
     
  13. txguy

    txguy 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks, just wondering around on the net one night trying to find out info about Blazers/Jimmys, and it popped up on one of my searches.
     
  14. Nonesuch

    Nonesuch 1/2 ton status

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    me and rocko are in the same boat. I know i have been trying to recruit k5'ers from austin area like crazy to this site. It has been a blessing for info, upgrades and ideas.Thanks Steve! we austin k5s need to start a club up. there seem to be alot of us out trying to have a good time!
     
  15. Can Can

    Can Can Pusher Man Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Are you talking about the 1/2 inch aluminum line that goes from the AIR pump to the exhaust manifold? Is your emmision equipment still hooked up? Mine's gone, and I don't really remember if it was in the way before........



    <font color=blue> MEAN DAD WITH TWO BAD KIDS<font color=blue>
     
  16. jimmyjack

    jimmyjack 1/2 ton status

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    That clicking noise you hear could be a circuit breaking fuse. Instead of blowing and burning, it opens and closes when it gets too hot, it could also be your compressor cycling too.

    That jeep thing? Yah I understand it....... Like my Blazer? <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5>http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5</a>
    Jim
     
  17. txguy

    txguy 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah, thats the line. I only have had mine 3 weeks. The pump is gone, but the tubing is there. Do I have to have this stuff hooked up for inspection?
     
  18. Can Can

    Can Can Pusher Man Staff Member Super Moderator

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    If you guys have emmision laws, you'll fail a visual if you don't have an AIR pump(I'm not sure though, we don't have any smog laws up here[​IMG]!!!!) The best thing to do is get ahold of one of the guys from here that live in Texas, like Rocko, and ask them. If you dont require an AIR pump, you can take the hoses off, disconnect the tubing from your exhaust manifolds, and plug the holes with 1/4" screw plugs.



    <font color=blue> MEAN DAD WITH TWO BAD KIDS<font color=blue>
     
  19. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    You can check the glove box sticker, if there, for the RPO of "G80" That will be the Gov-Lock, and more than likely, the cause of your turning noise. Take a corner fast enough under power, it will probably feel likeyou just hit the curb : )

    My gov-lock was doing that trick, but when my friend dug into it and broke one of the centrifugal weights off, it worked fine form then on out.

    No word yet that I have seen (GM or otherwise) saying those diffs need limited slip additive, since they *shouldn't* be bound together cornering, which is why you would need limited slip additive.

    Dorian
    My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
    No anti-theft measures on your truck? No pity when its stolen
     
  20. MudNurI

    MudNurI 1/2 ton status

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    Could the rear end noise be the SAME rear end noise that 99% of GM truck's have? both our 89 and 99 silverado's have it? I have always thoughtand been told that it is the play in the rear end. Usually it does it I think right about the time it shifts into 2nd. or if you are coasting, and thromp on it. I dunno, but the 99 has 70k now, and we havent fixed anything, the 89 has 300k, and two tranny's but didnt do anything to the rear end. Just my thought...

    1986 K5 4" skyjacker suspension 3 " body, 12 bolt rear, dana 44 front, TIRED ol 305
     

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