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86 Chevy Blazer front axle leak help?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by wellbilldancesays, Sep 4, 2006.

  1. wellbilldancesays

    wellbilldancesays Registered Member

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    I have an 86 Chevy Blazer Siverrado.

    Its a 4WD and today I noticed a leak in the front axle on the right side. I thought it was brake fluid but after looking I could see it was the oil from the front axle. It looks like a rubber stop on the bottom is leaking. I put it in 4wd and it went in ok but I could hear a little clicking noise. So I took it out. It had a little trouble getting out of 4WD but it did unlock. It has never had this problem and I think it because the oil is low, but before I refill it I need to fix the leak.
    Couple of questions...... Is it okay to drive in 2WD? Would a Chiltons manual help me replace the seal? Has anyone else had this problem? Any other advice?
    Thanks for any help, as you could guess I'm a new newbie but a fast learner.
     
  2. wellbilldancesays

    wellbilldancesays Registered Member

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    Its actually leaking right out of the end of the axle. Leaking BAD!!
     
  3. readymix

    readymix 3/4 ton status

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    Leaking inner axle seal.
    $10 part, very easy to change as oong as you are not afraid of tearing into the axle. The whole axle must be dissasembles including removing the carrier.

    Replace both sides while you are in there
     
  4. wellbilldancesays

    wellbilldancesays Registered Member

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    Man thanks for the reply.
    I have never done that but would a chiltons show me how?
     
  5. readymix

    readymix 3/4 ton status

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    Not sure I don't ever use a book.
    Have you ever replaced you wheel bearings before? If so you had half the job done already
     
  6. dirtynails

    dirtynails Registered Member

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    This is what happened to me one time in my '83. It looked to me like the leak was coming out the end and I took it apart (didn't have to remove carrier, axle slid out fine--I have an open axle on the front) I replaced a rubber seal, but that wasn't the problem. After putting it back together it still leaked. I looked closer, sprayed off the diff housing with carb cleaner and found a small pinhole leak in the housing. I think is was a little bit of pourousity from the casting. I put some JB weld on the outside of the diff and it's been fine ever since. That was few years ago. It's unlikely that's your problem, but you never know.
     
  7. ssped

    ssped 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Ya, 10b and 44s you dont have to remove the carrier maybe C clips from it though. I had one apart saturday and it took like 30 minutes in the Junk yard without air tools. super easy.
     
  8. readymix

    readymix 3/4 ton status

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    There are no C clips in any front axle

    If it is in fact leaking from the inner axle seals you WILL need to remove the carrier to change them
     
  9. ssped

    ssped 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    that is kinda what I thought but was not sure. the one I pulled in the junk yard did not. the axle came right out when I unbolted the spindle and backing plates. is the seal at the axle end or at the carrier?
     
  10. readymix

    readymix 3/4 ton status

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    They are all like that, but since it sounds like an inner seal, he has to go one step further and remove the carrier to get to the seals.
     
  11. wellbilldancesays

    wellbilldancesays Registered Member

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    Thanks for the the replys.
    I'm going to try a do it myself. After taking a look at a haynes manual it doesnt look too difficult, plus I have time and patience.
    Can I drive it in 2WD still? Not that I will need to just wondering.
    Also before I take it apart I should drain it right?
    Just out of curiosity how much would a mechanic or the dealer charge?
    Thanks!
     
  12. readymix

    readymix 3/4 ton status

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    If you have manual hubs and you leave them unlocked and in 2WD you could drive it as much as you would like.

    Yes, drain the oil first.

    No idea what a mechanic would charge as far as book hours go, but I would charge at least $50 plus parts to do it. Depending on the condition of the axle.
     
  13. wellbilldancesays

    wellbilldancesays Registered Member

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    I dont have manual hubs. I have it in two wheel drive but I'm not going to drive it, until its fixed.
    I think the axle is in good condition, just all greasy and dirty.
    If you would be willing to do it for $50 bucks plus the parts and let me see how you do it I would be totally interested. This way I could learn, but not make any mistakes.
    Let me know....
     
  14. 1985_K5_Silverado

    1985_K5_Silverado 1/2 ton status

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    This would be a really good time to take advantage of overlap labor (even if you're doing this yourself) and switch to some good manual locking hubs at the same time.
     
  15. readymix

    readymix 3/4 ton status

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    I would love to help out but I don't have the time to take off right now.
    I could walk you through it step-by-step here if you would like.
     
  16. noahrob

    noahrob 1/2 ton status Author

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    I just did this to my D60 (twice actually...long story) but it is pretty easy to do and there were a couple of really good threads here and on pavement sucks and pirate...Readymix gave me many good tips and his name appeared in several of the threads I looked at.
     
  17. wellbilldancesays

    wellbilldancesays Registered Member

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    Thanks, that would be cool.
    I'm going to start I plan on starting tomorrow. Here is what I plan to do.
    Since I'm a newbie I'm going to even include simple steps.
    I'll start off by loosing the lugnuts. Then raising it and securing on jackstands directly under the axle housing. I'll be doing this on both sides so the entire front end is lifted up.
    I'll remove both the tires and disc brakes.
    Now here is the stuff that kinda scares me, I'll remove the differential cover and let the oil drain.
    Now I'lll rotate the differential so I can get to the lock screw and remove it while supporting the pinion shaft. Then pull the pinion shaft until it will rest on the case.
    Then using a screwdriver to rotate the c-lock so it will pass through the end of the thrust block. Then push the axle shaftin and remove the c-lock. Then pull out the axle shaft. Pry out the oil seal and replace with new one.


    Is this right so far?? I think I can get it.
     
  18. readymix

    readymix 3/4 ton status

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    It really is easy. I have changed so many axle seals I couldn't even begin to count them.
     
  19. readymix

    readymix 3/4 ton status

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    No "C" clips on a front axle

    and you are leaving out quite a few steps to the job
     
  20. wellbilldancesays

    wellbilldancesays Registered Member

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    Aw man right when I was starting to feel a little confident....
    what steps am I missing?
    Thanks for the help.....
     

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