Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

95 T-10 Blazer, getting ready for some work.

Discussion in '1983-2005 S-Series models' started by Jagged, Feb 12, 2006.

  1. Jagged

    Jagged 1 ton status

    Apr 25, 2005
    Likes Received:
    So I've got a 95 T-10 Blazer that's getting ready to have a lot of work done on it.

    I'm replacing/rebuilding the transmission (175k on the ticker and it died).
    The follwoing suspension parts need replacement: ball joints, idler arm, TRE's
    It could use a new driver's side CV shaft as well

    I've been thinking about going for a 1-2" lift and fitting some 31x10.5 or 32x11.5 MT-type tires on the truck.

    If it gets lifted, I'll probably replace the shocks as well.

    This truck is my DD, but it's main pupose is for storm chasing. I'm slowly working on adding all the electronics I want to it, but it would be nice to make it more capable as well.

    I don't want to do a SAS on it because it's main purpose is not off-roading, I'm just trying to make it slightly more capable off-road with some bigger treads.

    I've got some bodywork planned as well; one I get the gouge in the passnger side pulled, from the trimline down it's getting sprayed with bedliner. A safari-type bar is hopefully going to be installed on the front. "Extra" sheetmetal will be cut from the wheel wells as necessary for tire fit.

    Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions that I should keep in mind? Recommendations for ball joints? The completion of this project is probably a year or so off (transmission is taking priority right now).
  2. pvfjr

    pvfjr 1/2 ton status

    Feb 10, 2004
    Likes Received:
    Oakridge, OR
    Might need a little more lift than that for the tires you want.

    When we were tearing the IFS off of our S10 project, I had a thought...

    It looks like a guy may be able to swap the left and right torsion bars with each other, and possibly do a balljoint flip to correct for angle. The torsion bars each seem to be offset about 15* at the ends, each bar offset in a different direction. Swapping them and keying them properly should make for a decent lift. I'm not sure how much lift it would give, possible 3-4", might be something worth looking into.

Share This Page