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a 1974 Blazer, restored, should I buy it?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by stephenwsmith, Nov 12, 2002.

    Hi...

    I am new to the Blazer board, but my daughter is getting my trusty 1991 Jeep Cherokee (she just passed her driving test today), and I need to replace it. Have gotten setup for Historic insurance (have a 66 Plymouth Satellite Conv), and thought a 74ish Blazer would be nice..

    1st.. What would a clean one cost

    2nd.. Where would you look for a good one

    3rd.. What would you look for on the truck, and what should
    I watch out for

    4rth. How can I tighten the truck up a bit, so it would
    drive better, while looking close to stock. I would
    like to keep it looking as close to stock (with
    33/15 tires/wheels) Anything I should do right away?

    Thanks for your help..


    stephen smith from NJ /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif

    stephensmith@att.net
     
  1. Silver84k5

    Silver84k5 1/2 ton status

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    1st off, welcome to the board, 2nd, fill out your profile or else you are gonna get in trouble with "zakk" 3rd, it sounds like you dont plan on wheeling your blazer. I'd look by the steering box and make sure the frame isnt cracked, then id do a throuogh (sp?) inspection for rust. Obviously look for leaks and what not..... Have you already got your eyes on this 74 you are talking about?
     
  2. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    Welcome to our board, please fill out your profile, it'll help us help you. If you want to run 33" tires, you might want to think about a 2.5" or 4" lift. How do you plan to use the truck ??? Do you only want a 74 ??? Or are you open to other years ??? Do you want to keep it stock, or are you willing to modifie ??? (Modified are more fun to drive, and usely much stronger both on and off road.) Look on Ebay for Blazers, you might get lucky and find one in your area. I placed wanted adds on the internet (rancher/farmer free classifieds) to find mine.
     
  3. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    Howdy. I am the Profile Police 'round these parts. Please be kind enuff to fill out yer profile. As others have mentioned, it will help us help you!

    A '74 out in NJ will cost a pretty penny. Rust will be the biggest problem. I would almost be looking into drier climets and having the vehcile shipped. They could easily patch rust up with paint and bondo, and it will rear its ugly head later.

    For overall driveability, i would suggest a later model. It will have TBI which will help with the cold starts, probably have a bit better chance of not having rust, or if it does it will be in the early (read: cureable) stages. It will also ride a bit better.

    Welcome abaord! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  4. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    I would agree with you zack except he said he wanted a classic, and that would be an older one.
    I would suggest like you said looking for one in drier climates for no rust and shipping if necessary.
    As was mentionned nefore, look for cracks in the frame where the steering box goes.
    If you just want on road not off road and you want an agressive look, go with 32x11.5x15 tires or even better 31x11.5x15, so you don't have to lift it, and you will have a nice handling, looking classic.
    If classic is what you're looking for, try and find anything between 69 and 75, the 69 would be a score since it's the first.
    75 is the last of the full convertibles and was the best equiped of the bunch.
     
  5. Chris_T

    Chris_T 1/2 ton status

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    I'd agree with that, of course I'm partial to first generation Blazers myself. I'd look around for later-first-gen though instead of a '69 to get the front disk brakes on the Dana 44 instead of drums.

    Out of curiousity, what does the '75 have that makes it more desirable than 73 or 74?
     
  6. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    It had all the nice options, like factory Roll bar, skid plates, LSD, wide wheels, tow hitch, big gas tank,...
    I had both a 73 and a 75.
    I loved them both.
    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  7. On the Blazer..

    The Truck has American Racing Wheels now... that are on the Big tires.. if I drop the lift, can I get tires that fit on those nice rims?

    The owner says they are 33/1250/15 I guess that means they are 15" rims, could I go for a smaller tire, and drop the lift, but keep the Rims? What is the benefit for the lift, other than the ground clearance.. never driven anything high, and would think that lowering it back to stock would make it ride better?

    stephen /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
     
  8. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    Re: On the Blazer..

    Keep the lift !!!!!!!! It may ride alittle ruff, but it's a truck, and will ride like a truck. Try better shocks.
     
  9. Any idea on what a 74 Blazer... clean with a rebuilt motor should sell for? The truck is in Pennsylvania..
     
  10. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    What's the owner asking for it ????
     
  11. shane74

    shane74 1/2 ton status

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    Depends on the area really. I have a '74 that I have at least $8000 into and you can't tell until you look at all the mechanical stuff. The body is in excellent shape on mine. No rust, no trimmed fenders, most of the original hard to find emblems and interior trim pieces, and all new seals and gaskets in the full top and body. If I were to sell mine right now, the way it sits, someone would have to give me at least $5500 for it here. Once I get the full cage, new interior, limo tinted glass in the top and 454 put in, the cost would be in the $8000 range. Now before anyone goes and thinks I'm nuts...there is a method to my madness. I KNOW nobody around here would pay that much for one, 'specially a woosy 1/2 ton. It's just that I love my ride too much to sell it. I would price it so high no one would want to even look at it! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  12. supersize75

    supersize75 1/2 ton status

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    I have a 75Blazer and have bought three blazer's in 1.5 years, one for the frame cause I tweeked my frame on mine, the other I just picked up saterday. My point is that the one from oregon=rust bucket hidden by a nice paint job, this has caused me to spend close to 2100.00 replacing every door,fender,rear quarters,rockers, tailgate, floor, and the hood! The one I bought 4 the frame had base-ball sized holes in the floor and at one point the seat dropped down. So what do ya do.....

    1. Stock will only keep ya happy for so long.
    2. change it to 73-75 so ya find one easier.
    3. Find a 75 and you can have ac "not shure on 73-74"
    4. come to Arizona, low humidity+desert= little rust.
    5.they are around $3,000-$12,000 for a desent to built one
    6. since the stock thing wont keep ya happy, find one with a 205, 12 bolt or better rear end and at least a 350 for da get up and go, a turbo400 for the tranny.
    7. dont be shy to buy one with bad parts, blazers are faily cheep to mildly fix up.
    8. new carpet=$230.00, 4 inch lift $330-600.00,tires+wheels are around 900-1500 for decent 33's or you can go the used route, I recomend this cuse the 33's, will only keep ya happy till ya see 35's, then 38's. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
    9- easibility, no computer, classic look and kids think it's a darn monster truck and the top comes off!
    10-its not a ford so reliability and recalls sharnt a huge concern, not that they recall 30 year old cars!
    11-damn buckets are comfy.
    12 gas to wheel=$35.00, camera= $8.00, pulling out a ford...priceless
    - /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gifshawn
     
  13. Michael

    Michael 1/2 ton status

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    Ther is a '74 Blazer in North Texas right now for $2500. Ad says "nothing fancy, but runs real well". I can do some checking if you want...email or PM me.
    michael@mkparker.com
     

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