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A/C compressor oil

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by detailer03, Jan 31, 2004.

  1. detailer03

    detailer03 1/2 ton status

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    I am replacing my A/C compressor. It says to add one once of oil to the amount drained. Where to I add the compressor oil. I did not drain the old one. How much oil do I need?
    I have an 89 K5?
     
  2. jwduke

    jwduke 1/2 ton status

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    Just add it to the compresser, where the hoses bolt up on the back. You want to add it to the side returning from the condensor. If you are staying with R12, you need R12 oil, and vise versa for R134a.
     
  3. detailer03

    detailer03 1/2 ton status

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    Can I just use a can of compressor oil that goes in like the freon. I did convert last year to 134. The reason I changed the old compressor, is it was leaking from the front seal and was the original one with 200,000 miles on it.
    How much do I put in. Do I buy liquid compressor oil from auto zone?
     
  4. jwduke

    jwduke 1/2 ton status

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    Yes you can. I don't think you need much, though. Did you loose very much oil? If not, don't worry about it.
     
  5. detailer03

    detailer03 1/2 ton status

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    brand new compressor. I started the truck and it makes a lot of noise. Rattles. I have not charged the system yet because it needs to be evacuated. Can I run it with out freon? Can I just put some freon and oil in it. The system is empty
     
  6. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    brand new compressor. I started the truck and it makes a lot of noise. Rattles. I have not charged the system yet because it needs to be evacuated. Can I run it with out freon? Can I just put some freon and oil in it. The system is empty

    [/ QUOTE ] STOP STOP!!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Do not run that compressor without oil and reeon! The oil travels in the freeon to and from the compressor, running it without a charge is like running an engine with no oil pressure. First off is yor low pressure sensor working? It is that plug that connects to the dryer. That should keep the system from coming on and destroying the pump. Go get yourself a bottle of ester oil at napa, it comes in an 8 oz bottle and that is the amount of oil that your system requires. Dump half in one hole and half in the other hole, on the compressor where the hoses hook up to. Then have the system evacuated and charged with freeon.
     
  7. detailer03

    detailer03 1/2 ton status

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    WOW, THANKS. I have no A/C experiance, and I live in AZ.
    Ok, I will put the oil in. I hope I did not ruin the compressor.
    Thanks.

    /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     
  8. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    WOW, THANKS. I have no A/C experiance, and I live in AZ.
    Ok, I will put the oil in. I hope I did not ruin the compressor.
    Thanks.

    /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

    [/ QUOTE ] You just may have! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Try turning the pump by hand, grab the front of the pump, not the pulley part of the clutch and if it's froze up it won't turn, if it's still good it should have slight resistance(compression) but you can turn it.
     
  9. lukebaby1

    lukebaby1 1/2 ton status

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    Whoa there, do not run it with no oil in it, it will ruin it. The clutch should not even be engaging without a charge on the system. Check to make sure the pressure switch is installed properly on the accumulator. (that big silver cylinder, up by the firewall RH side). Take the compressor back off and put oil in the inlet port while rotating the compressor so the valves move (by hand). Read the instructions that came with the new compressor. It should have a placard or sticker on it somewhere telling you the amount of total oil the system holds, then figure the compressor will hold about 40% of the total, and about 20% in the accumulator. If your replacing the compressor, you also need to replace the accumulator, as once you open the system the dissectant in there will suck up moisture and be useless. Also a good idea to pull and replace the orifice valve, in the high pressure line that is below the accumulator, where the smaller hose connects. Also be sure and replace all o-rings at connections. After you put back all together. Then evacuate the system for at least an hour or so depending on your elevation. After that hook up your charging manifold valve line and release the freon into the lines, breaking the connection's breifly to purge all lines of air and moisture. Then start the engine and turn on the AC on the dash. Once a sufficient pressure is established within the line the compressor shold kick in and start pulling freon from the recharge source. should take whatever pounds are required, once again, this is specified on the compressor placard. If you have never done this before, I would recommend getting a manual at Auto part store on automotive AC. and use a manifold gauge. Especially if your using R-12 which you do not want to waste$$$$$. If you get air and moisture in there in the process you will have to start all over. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  10. detailer03

    detailer03 1/2 ton status

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    I have not connected the compress electric. But is is making noise just spinning free with out the compressor on. It is just spinning free.
     
  11. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Crap, I've got a bottle of the stuff you need sitting at home, but I'm at school and can't get to it...otherwise I'd send it to you. It's like a 10 oz bottle (that was the smallest size I could buy) for $20, and I only needed a capful. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif I got the bottle through a local auto-repair shop.
     
  12. lukebaby1

    lukebaby1 1/2 ton status

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    That's weird, if its just spinning the idler, then your allright you have not hurt anything. But it should not be making a big racket either. Anyway take it back off and put some oil in it and go get you a Haynes manual on Automotive AC systems (about 15 bucks). Read it good and you will understand the process better. Knowing the steps and the tools that are required may give you a better idea of the task involved. That way when its done right you will be able to see your breath (exhale), and cool down good in that Arizona sun when you get it right. Good luck! /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  13. detailer03

    detailer03 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, I took it off, compressor is siezed, and the idler part is loose. I think it was just an Auto Zone POS part. I am going to get another one now. So correct me if I am wrong. If I don't energize the clutch, it should just spin free and not come apart.
    Thanks guys /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     
  14. lukebaby1

    lukebaby1 1/2 ton status

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    Yep, sounds like you got a bad rebuild.from the manufacture. The only way that the thing would have engaged is if you somehow jumped it at the pressure switch or the switch is actually closed (defective switch) and put power to the clutch magnet. Anyway I would still put some oil in it before you take it back, so they cannot claim it was a nonlubriction failure, which is not covered by the warranty. Take a multimeter to that switch and see if it is bad. With it in your hand you should not have any continuity between the two poles. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
     
  15. detailer03

    detailer03 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, they warrentied the compressor. This one I put oil in. I will evac an rehcarge it Monday

    Thanks for all your help
     
  16. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    good luck...
     

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