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AAAGGHHH!!! Now I REALLY need cooling help!

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Bowtied, Aug 12, 2001.

  1. Bowtied

    Bowtied Registered Member

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    First, to everyone that replied to my original post, thank you VERY much. Your comments were extremely helpful but I'm still in a bind. Here goes:
    Still running way hot, I'm talking 265 under acceleration, I think it doesn't shoot up as bad sitting still. ( I would have checked this a little more closely but a lightning storm just rolled in so I figured I better get inside!)

    Here's what I've done so far:
    New rad cap
    New water pump
    New thermostat (195)
    New hoses, upper and lower
    New heavy-duty fan clutch

    Flush:
    I tried to blast the garden hose into every point of the system that I could gain access to. With the water pump, t-stat, temp transmitter, knock senson and heater core hoses disconnected, I repeatedly blasted water in until it came out crystal clear.

    I thought it might be inaccurate indication so I found a small bolt hole right next to the temp transmitter and inserted the remote temp probe of my multi meter and it indicated almost exactly what the gauge inside the truck reads.

    I am totally lost now. I guess it could be a head gasket leaking in combustion gasses but would'nt that cause coolent to overflow the expansion tank?

    And I guess I could have a blockage somewhere in spite of the thousands of gallons of water I shot into it. I looked down into the rad and it looks nice and clean on the inside and there is nothing in the fins outside. I called the guy I bought it from and he said that because it had a pin-hole in it he had it rodded, corred, and the pin-hole fixed. Now for the part I really don't like; he said he put the "pellet stuff" into it, as he does to all of his vehicles, as a water pump lubricant! That adds to my suspision of blockage. Can that crap be blasted out with garden hose pressure if it is blocked up somewhere? If not, could a proffesional flush get it out?

    Finally, how bad off does the ignition timing have to be to cause overheating. I know that if it's advanced too far it can cause this, right? Anyhow, I checked it and with the advance wire (the one by the brake booster) hooked up it was advanced, under computer controll, just off the end of the scale; maybe 10 or 12 degrees advanced. With the wire disconnected (as per the manuall on timing adjustment) it reads about 2 degrees retarded.

    If it is a blockage, can I fix it with common tools or does it need to go to a shop? And if so, how much will that run?

    If you can offer any info I would GREATLY appreciate it.

    Thanks a lot in advanced!!!

    Andy
     
  2. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    flushing a radiator doesn't always do the trick... you should take it to a radiator shop and have them boil it out. lot cheaper then a new one, and you can get the same results.

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff</a>
     
  3. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    I would have to agree on it being the radiator.

    <font color=blue>Wayne<font color=blue>
    <font color=blue>Happy Trails<font color=blue>
     
  4. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    You got a fan shroud right? Take the top plate off that holds the radiator in and check for crap between the radiator and A/C condensor. That truck ever got run throgh some deep mud it can pack in there.
    On the sides of the block you will find plugs just above the oil pan. Pull them and make sure you get collant draining. if they don't drain then maybe the block is full of rust.
    Does the lower radiator hose have a spring in it to keep it from collapsing?

    It's not my damn planet monkey boy!
    <a target="_blank" href=http://communities.msn.com/OffroadK5s>communities.msn.com/OffroadK5s</a>

    Grim-Reaper
     
  5. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    I will also say if all thi is done and it is overheating going down the road, but is much better at a stand still go for the radiator. I would forget the boil out and stuff... just get a nice Modine unit or a nice 3 or 4 core if you can find one/afford it. This hopefully will have you set. Just for the heck of it look for white smoke from the exhaust, antifreeze in the oil (sometimes mives to make a soupy milkshaky type mixture), or for any extrnal water leaks. I also trust that you have made sure to bleed any air in the sytem out.

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm>http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm</a>
     
  6. Bowtied

    Bowtied Registered Member

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    UPDATE!
    I just went outside and ran it. She shot up to 235 in about 5 minutes. I shut it down and went out and felt the radiator. Man it was smokin hot on the pass. side where the return from the heater core dumps in. That whole side was hot all the way down to and including the lower hose to the water pump. BUT... the rest of the rad (the whole driver side and center) was cool to the touch. Maybe a little warm along the top but the rest was darn near cold! What does it all mean?
    The upper hose from the t-stat to the rad was hot but did'nt seem quite as hot as the lower. Is my block blocked? Or the Rad?

    Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Andy
     
  7. Waxer

    Waxer 1/2 ton status Author

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    sounds like maybe the thermostat is sticking. It being new does NOT mean its good. Pull it out and test it.

    Crawlin the rocks with my K5
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.rockreadyk5.com>http://www.rockreadyk5.com</a>
     
  8. Bowtied

    Bowtied Registered Member

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    Waxer,
    A friend told be about testing it on the stove so I did. It went full open right at 195.

    Thanks,
    Bowtied
     
  9. Thunder

    Thunder 3/4 ton status

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    Is the thermostat installed up side down?
    That will cause a heat up like that at idle.

    <P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by Thunder on 08/13/01 07:21 AM.</FONT></P>
     
  10. WakeBoard&4X4er

    WakeBoard&4X4er 1/2 ton status

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    get a pan of water, get a cooking t-stat, put both in water and on stove, trun stove to hi, when the cooking t-stat hits 195 the other should open.
     
  11. newyorkin

    newyorkin 1 ton status

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    There's a test kit you can buy to see if the head gasket's leaking into the cooling system, I forget, but it's some kind of chemical test that turns colors if there's exhaust/oil/fuel being pushed into the coolant. Also, like capt said, check for white smoke in the exhaust and coolant in the oil (if you can't tell, do an oil change and measure how much comes out).

    If your radiator's hot on one side, cool on the other, my guess would be it's clogged, and those pellets are probably the cause, or there's something blocking airflow on the hot side. The upper hose is return, lower is feed, so if lower is hotter than upper, maybe the impellor is reversed. But then, that would suck all the coolant out of the engine pretty quick, and have to use pressure to make any flow through the t-stat... Or, if both hoses are equally hot, flow is seriously restricted, or the radiator is blocked and squeezing coolant through passageways without enough time to cool it.

    Whatever it is, you might want to take it easy Driving to avoid blowing out a head gasket if that's not the problem, or warping the heads..

    Good luck man!!! I feel your pain! I went through this with my S10 for months, and it just went away on it's own one day...

    Ratch
    <a target="_blank" href=http://k5.8m.com>k5.8m.com</a>
    **Ever stop to think... Then forget to start again?**
     
  12. RESTORE89

    RESTORE89 1/2 ton status

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    i also think it sounds like a blockage in the rad, if you remove the rad and take it to a rad shop they will do a rod job and it should remove any blockage. this is not real exspensive, like less than $100. had the same thing happen on an 87 nissan 4x4 once, and i removed the rad and was able to bend the little tabs that hold the caps for the reservoirs up and remove them, and did the rod job my self. but you can only do this on rads with plastic reservoirs and gaskets, not the soldered brass kind

    It needs a bigger motor.
    what's in it now?
    doen't matter it NEEDS A BIGGER MOTOR
    89 350tbi/700r4h/np208/4.11's
     
  13. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    New radiators are just too cheap to even bother with having an old one patched, rodded, etc. A new one is $150 or so. Paying $100 to "fix" a 10-20 year old one that may be nearly rotted through in another area just doesn't make any sense to me. [​IMG]

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck>www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck</a>
    It's a great day to be alive...
     
  14. Blazer1970

    Blazer1970 1/2 ton status

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    Yes, let a radiator shop flow check your radiator for you. A proper flow test is the only way to assess the condition of the radiator. If it is plugged, the condition and cost of replace or re-core will tell you what to do. Otherwise, lean or late is the rule for hot running. Your timing sounds OK. You don't have a massive vacuum leak somewhere do you?

    Tim

    70 Blazer CST 4X4 350 SM465 NP205
    87 Burb 4X4 350
    01 GMC 2500HD 4X4 Duramax/Allison<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by Blazer1970 on 08/13/01 12:25 PM.</FONT></P>
     
  15. Prembird

    Prembird 1/2 ton status

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    If one side of the rad it getting hot and the other side isnt then your problem is in your rad. They guy that put that pellet crap in there is probably not to smart when it comes to cars... The rad. is blocked up and i would have to agree.. new rads are cheap.. i would just get a new one and replace it. I would also recommand getting a 4 core if you can.. Also if for some reason this does not solve your problem.. you might want to check into the water pump itself.. but being only one side of the rad is hot then i would say its your rad. that is your problem..

    Prembird
    [​IMG] <font color=blue> If it aint</font color=blue><font color=red> LOUD </font color=red><font color=blue> Then turn it </font color=blue><font color=red> UP</font color=red> [​IMG]
     
  16. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    Definetly have some radiator problems man... just chuck it and get a nice 3 or 4 core radiator if possible. Modine makes excellent radiator and have a lifetime warranty. They also make a beefer line for better cooling both coolant wise and tranny flid wise. They are excellent. Last one I bought was for a 350 Camaro and was like $120 my cost, which would put list in the 175 or so range

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm>http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm</a>
     
  17. Itali83

    Itali83 1/2 ton status

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    I second the new radiator. Just splooge and buy it. By the time you get the old one boiled/pressure tested and all that other shiznit. you'll be almost at the cost of a new one but with no warranty etc. Buy a new one.
    Ben 87 Jimmy
    <font color=blue>Rust=Bad</font color=blue>
     
  18. Bowtied

    Bowtied Registered Member

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    Again, Thanks dudes for all the good info!
    I have an appointment for tommorrow at 08:00 to have the thing pressure flushed and the guy said that they will acid flush it if that doesn't work. I explained everthing to him over the phone the same way I have you guys and he thinks that it's a water passage in the block that's causing the problem. I can only say that at this point I eally do think it's blocked somewhere, just not sure where that is. You guys all say it's probably a rad right? Decisions, Decisions!
    Anyhow, I hope I can get her fixed tomorrow because we're North Carolina bound at 02:00 Wednsday morning!!!
    HEAVY CHEVY, DON'T LET ME DOWN!!!

    I'll let you all know what comes of it.
    Say a prayer for the Bowtie!

    Andy
     

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