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About to start cutting out the rust. Bracing?

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Scrubby, Feb 23, 2004.

  1. Scrubby

    Scrubby 1/2 ton status

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    I have read through the cancer support thread and I think I am ready to to start the surgery on my 72. From what I have seen so far it looks like I have outer and inner rockers to fix, as well as the floors. I also peeked at the front floor support, and it looks like it needs to be replaced too. I think the rocker boxes are solid, so I am going to try to not remove them. If I leave the top on and the rocker boxes in, do I need to brace across the door before I start cutting? I'm thinking I should be ok without the brace. What do you guys think?
     
  2. Larry_in_Tx

    Larry_in_Tx 1/2 ton status

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    It should be fine with the top on there but if you have the material to throw a brace on, it wouldn’t hurt a thing to have the extra support. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  3. Robin

    Robin 1/2 ton status

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    1) Resist the urge to do both sides at the same time (since these projects stretch on for months, it's nice to have a point of reference by looking at the other side).

    2) I got my patch panels from LMC, and wasn't very happy with them. Expect them not to fit.

    3) Before you start hacking away the rust, get the patch panels laid up to where they should go. Do the tweeking of the patch panels by laying them over the rusted pieces. In fact, cut the patch panel the way you want it to fit in, then use it as a pattern for cutting out the rusted piece. This will give you an almost perfect fit.

    4) I used a gas HenRob2000, which works good for sheetmetal, but there is always warpage. He patient and tack the edges, then stitch and pound flat as you go to keep things to a minimum.

    5) After watching "Dream Car Garage" I found out that doing the floor pan first was wrong, it should be last if at all possible.

    6) It'll be worse once you starting peeling of the sheetmetal. There's always rust hidden under the surface stuff, so expect the worst and commit to doing it right no matter how long it takes. Unless this is a full time job, expect about a year of cursing rust.

    7) Search my name, I have some good pics on imagestation you can checkout.

    I had other car problems the last couple months and am just getting back after it. Just when I thought I was ready to paint my dash, I thought to look at the top of the windsheild frame and more rust greeted me. That was about 3 months ago, and I just welded the last piece of sheetmetal in place.

    To answer your question...I didn't brace, but I wish I had. I'm still trying to figure out the best way to make my driver's door have the correct gap (currently it's less than 1/8"
     

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