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AC air temp

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by sting, Jun 6, 2001.

  1. sting

    sting Registered Member

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    My AC temp ( on a 90 degree day is about 65 -75 degrees) every thing is new, compressor @ dryer
    and im using the new freon...i was told thats as good as it gets..any ideas.....any thing i can do to
    improve this......
     
  2. prjt_blzr

    prjt_blzr 1/2 ton status

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    R134 is not as good as the older R12. The evaporator is not sized large enough for the 134 stuff since it was not designed for it. However, it should get closer to 50-55 degrees. There are several products on the market that will help such as coldshot. It does sound like something is not quite right with your new a/c stuff. How did you have it pumped down and charged?? Are you sure that it is still holding charge?? R134 has a nasty reputation of leaking in an R12 system. Did you replace all the seals as well??
     
  3. sting

    sting Registered Member

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    It was drawn down with all new seals....I will try some cold shot....thanks..
     
  4. mlb79

    mlb79 Registered Member

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    You might also check the door in the blend box. If that door isn't closing you are mixing air across the heater core with the cold air. My 79 runs about 55 degrees on a 90 degree day with 134a. But first I agree that you should check the charge, with a new system, there might be a connection that didn't get all the attention (torque) it needed. Good luck!

    Mark

    79 K5, 3" lift, 400 cubes of nasty
     
  5. K5 NUTT

    K5 NUTT 1/2 ton status

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    I disagrre about the bad rap R134A has gotten. I work with it day in and day out. The deal about the evap not being sized right is Horse----. Sorry...nothin personal...just doesn't hold up to theory. First off when converting to 134A you need to really change out all the hoses to teflon hoses...or they are called barrier hoses. 134A is good at getting thru the old rubber hoses that the 12 used as the molecules are denser than that of 12. When charging your new system with 134A...the rated oem charge of 3.75 pounds....needs to be under cut by 20%. You will need to use PAG oil after flushing the system....or if you don't change the compressor you will have to change out the oil in the compressor and run Ester oil which can tolerate a small residual mix of both. Use mineral oil (r12) to coat the o-rings as PAG evaperates...and will crusty up the threads it contacts. Installing a vacum operated heater valve tee-d into your fresh air vacum pot will shut off the heater lines when you enter MAX air...and give you 8 degree's in the dash...another trick for any system is to cover the accumulator with fiberglass and then wrap it up with a heat reflective tape..worth another 8 degree's...and for another 8 degree's buy yourself one of the new variable rate orifice tubes for $20 bux...it works! Gauge readings should reflect somewhere betwwen 30 to 40 psi on the low side...and 200 on the high side at idle...so make sure the condensor is NOT painted (holds heat)...and there is a 40 degree drop across the condensor...if you do not have a 40 degree drop...add a 10 or 12 inch cooling fan on the front of your condensor to help out. And remember..any automotive a/c system was designed to drop the tempature of the vehicles interior by 40 degrees than that of ambiant tempature!

    My 02. cents

    Azblazer

    1979 K5 350 TBI
    1976 K5 Chalet
    If it ain't got arizona pinstriping.....you ain't wheelin the pee outa her!
     
  6. Mr Red

    Mr Red 1/2 ton status

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    The 40 degree drop would depend on humidity wouldn't it? High humidity puts more strain on the system where with low humidity, you'd see better results in temp drop. All regardless of outside temp.

    [image]http://members.home.net/dwhisman/tazstomp.gif[/image]
    <font color=red>David, '86 & '91 K5</font color=red>
    Forever missing Dale Earnhardt, who drove over more Fords than we could ever dream of
     
  7. Michael

    Michael 1/2 ton status

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    The condensor(out by the radiator) is generally the culprit on conversions...not the evaporator. Many 134 conversions seem to work well...others not, due to wildly difering techniques. I would follow AZ's suggestions and see if that helps. Hvae those pressures checked also...especially if a shop charged the system for you, 134 seems to be pretty picky. If all else fails try here for all the A/C info you can stand: http://www.jmartin.net/parker/goose.htm
     
  8. Josh

    Josh Registered Member

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    Sounds like I know who I'm gonna take my a/c to the next time it needs work. Where do you work??

    Josh
     
  9. sting

    sting Registered Member

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    Just want to thank everyone for there help...Im going to try all the ideas out on the K5...ill let everyone
    know the results when im done its going to be hot as hell in Dallas this summer and IM tired of sweating...
     
  10. K5 NUTT

    K5 NUTT 1/2 ton status

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    Yes...high humidity is a big factor for those of us who live back east...air conditioning is just that...conditioning of the air...not only does it have to cool the cab and work hard due to sunload factors here out west but it also has to absorb and remove the moisture in the air it is cooling...and that is why a sort of steam can be seen coming out of the vents upon first firing up the a/c back east....since i don't deal with humidity as a factor out here i can dig thru my books and explain it a little better.

    Azblazer

    1979 K5 350 TBI
    1976 K5 Chalet
    If it ain't got arizona pinstriping.....you ain't wheelin the pee outa her!
     
  11. K5 NUTT

    K5 NUTT 1/2 ton status

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    I work at Freightliner Arizona out on I-10 and 99th ave...but i do side work out of the garage here in Glendale Az. I have my own RobinAir R134A machine...i'm around 43rd Ave and Orangewood....in the townhouses on the SE corner...the Chalet is parked out front all the time.

    Azblazer

    1979 K5 350 TBI
    1976 K5 Chalet
    If it ain't got arizona pinstriping.....you ain't wheelin the pee outa her!
     
  12. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    Hey bud- Whaaassupp....... How was the wedding? hey man, I didn't know you have all the A/C stuff. Do you have a vacuum pump too? Maybe I can drive down one of these days and borrow your garage to convert the K5 to 134......I'll buy the beer[​IMG]

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://fwp4x4.coloradok5.com>http://fwp4x4.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  13. K5 NUTT

    K5 NUTT 1/2 ton status

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    Actually once i buy the R-12 portable recovery machine i'll have a spare snap-on vacum pump i won't need anymore! Just did a job this weekend for Haulgas...and the 134A works just fine...the scale is a bit touchy but it works fine!

    Put that carb on the 81 K10 yet?

    DW

    1979 K5 350 TBI
    1976 K5 Chalet
    If it ain't got arizona pinstriping.....you ain't wheelin the pee outa her!
     
  14. Bubba Ray Boudreaux

    Bubba Ray Boudreaux 1 ton status

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    Okay, it's time to p*ss some of y'all off. Yesterday, I started up my K-5, it's on jackstands right now. Engine hasn't run in nearly four months. After a few minutes, kicked on MAX A/C, within two minutes it was down to 35 degrees, standing still and outside temp was about 90. :O)

    "Liberals ain't mean, they just don't have any common sense!"
     
  15. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    Naw, I just moved all the stuff in a corner for now. Been busy putting in ducting for a swamp cooler in my house. Haven't had time to check it out yet. The intake looks in good shape. Thanks for letting me check it out[​IMG]. You guys still want to come up on the 4th?

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://fwp4x4.coloradok5.com>http://fwp4x4.coloradok5.com</A>
     

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