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Adjusted the TV cable tonight......is my cable stretched?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Can Can, Feb 17, 2004.

  1. Can Can

    Can Can Pusher Man Staff Member Super Moderator

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    I had a chance to get under the hood of the ol' 83 6.2 tonight and I adjusted the TV cable towards the firewall to raise the shift points. The 700r4 is shifting a lot better but not at as high RPM-wise as I'd like.

    There's only one problem- I can't seem to pull the cable any farther towards the firewall. I swear I only need about another 1/8th of an inch to get the tranny shifting right where I want it..... /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

    So is my cable stretched? Or do I have to reposition the bracket in order to get the cable a wee bit farther back? Any suggestions would be appreciated, brothers!!! /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  2. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    If it is not hanging up or anything you may have to. I adjusted mine myself too. Technically you are supposed to check the line pressure as you adjust it, but that sounds expensive to me. Perhaps you could mount the TV cable bracket to an adjustable aftermarket sliding bracket somehow. I just don't know how much space constraints diesel trucks have. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  3. Okiemuddog

    Okiemuddog 1/2 ton status

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    Paul,
    try an new cable, they are cheap. I bet that fixes your problem /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  4. Can Can

    Can Can Pusher Man Staff Member Super Moderator

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    And how the heck does a guy replace a TV cable? Doesn't that involve getting inside the tranny?

    *Paul shudders at the thought* /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     
  5. Okiemuddog

    Okiemuddog 1/2 ton status

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    nope it has one srew that hold the casing to the tranny, the cable itslef just clip on to a piece of wire connected to the valve, hell I did mine in the parking lot of the parts store /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  6. Can Can

    Can Can Pusher Man Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Hmmmmmmm........sounds pretty simple, even for a dumbdumb like me. How does the cable hook up to the engine? On my 6.2 it hooks into a plastic doomahickey underneath the intake. I'm sure the piece is the same as on a gasser although the location is obviously a little different.....
     
  7. 85scottsdale

    85scottsdale 1/2 ton status

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    I have to move the cable back manually alsoon mine. I have been running it like that for a good while now with no problems. And replacing the cable just involves dropping the oil pan pretty much. Not too bad of a job. I have a B&M transpak to go in my 700r4 so theres a little more incentive than just replacing the cable there now.

    Does anyone know if too much line pressure because of a manually adjusted TV cable will harm the tranny? Mine shifts fairly hard at WOT into second gear with the corvette 2-4 servo and boost valve, and a nice firm shift into 3rd. Putting the shift kit in will probably get it to where it chirps the tires from 1-2.
     
  8. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Keep in mind that the governor plays a big part in shift points also. Slightly stronger springs or lighter weights would raise the shift points for ya. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  9. Ryan B.

    Ryan B. 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Technically you are supposed to check the line pressure as you adjust it, but that sounds expensive to me.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I'm pretty sure that with diesel applications the TV adjustment is even more critical beacause they got more torque.
    I just took my auto 63A & 63D classes- auto tranny/ transaxle rebuilding, repair and diagnosis.
    The adjustment with a pressure gauge is easy, but a shop would proabably charge an hours labor to do it.
    All you need to do is get a pressure gauge.. and the threaded adapter that screws into the pressure port tap on the drivers side of the 700r4 case. What you are looking for is line rise with very little tap of the throttle. Like 100-200 rpms jump you should see some line rise.
    I've seen it where you push the button and do the WOT setting so its supposed to be set... then you put a gauge on it and you gotta rev it up 800 rpms or so until you get some line rise outta it.. It would be slipping that whole time. Thats where you need to fine tune it.

    my 2 cents. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  10. Ryan B.

    Ryan B. 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Governor pressure is linear increasing with road speed (your road speed signal) and foces against the spring tension on the shift valves causing and upshift...
    TV or Modulator pressure or a MAP sensor on newer vechicles is your LOAD signal for the tranny. This raises line pressure on the other side of the shift valve (spring side) making govenor pressure overcome spring tension + TV boost also.... making the shift later/ harder. Thats why TV adjustment is responsible for when it shifts when you have your foot in it.
    Once you're sure you have that adjusted properly, if your still not satisfied with the upshift you can put in a shift kit or play with the governor weights so pressure builds slower and upshifts occur later.

    /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
     
  11. 85scottsdale

    85scottsdale 1/2 ton status

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    What kind of pressure guage should I pickup to work with the 700r4? Not sure how much pressure it puts out, i'm sure its a good bit though. I spent a lot of time and money on my 700r4 and I want to make sure its right, but I don't wanna pay somebody else to make sure its right. I just adjusted mine to the point that I couldn't really tell that it was slipping anymore. Doing the WOT adjustment deal just made it slip very bad.
     
  12. Ryan B.

    Ryan B. 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Max pressure you should see is somewhere like 120psi. Usually 60-80 psi as i recall. In reverse i think it could be up to 200psi.
    So a pressure gauge that goes up to about 200 psi should be sufficient.
     
  13. 85scottsdale

    85scottsdale 1/2 ton status

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    And then I guess i'll need the proper hose and fitting to go in the transmission?
     
  14. K1Orion

    K1Orion 1/2 ton status

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    Check out Bowtie Overdrives http://www.700r4.com . I'm pretty sure they sell a guage kit for adjusting the 700 but I thnk its kinda pricey. You could see what they are using and copy it. They also have tons of info on 700s. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  15. 85scottsdale

    85scottsdale 1/2 ton status

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    Thats where I bought my lockup kit from, good guys and I love that place, excellent source for 700r4 parts.

    I think my cable may be old and screwy and thats why adjusting it the normal way doesn't work right. I bought a new one and the actual cable portion seems to be shorter by a good deal, so I suspect my old one is worn out.

    One of the previous owners of my truck cut-out the lockup wiring entirely, its no wonder 3rd and 4th and the band were toasty looking.

    The pressure guage is only 30 bucks, well worth it to me, considering all the time and money I spent building this transmission myself. Its for sure worth 30 bucks to make sure its going to last.
     
  16. Ryan B.

    Ryan B. 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    One of the previous owners of my truck cut-out the lockup wiring entirely, its no wonder 3rd and 4th and the band were toasty looking.

    [/ QUOTE ]
    I'm pretty sure its the 2-4 band yer talkin about..
    It is common for a band to 'look toasty' because the bands do burn a little bit.. When the band applies, it stops the drum from spinning so it is going to burn the band a bit.
    Kinda toasty is alright & somewhat normal, Really Burned is another thing.
     
  17. 85scottsdale

    85scottsdale 1/2 ton status

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    Were talking the friction material was flaking off, the clutch plates were black also, but not flaking. It would actually shift into 3rd gear but wouldn't go anywhere.

    I installed a new TV cable today, and I forgot to just replace the cable you don't have to drop the pan, but be prepared to catch the pint of fluid that will come out of the hole when you pull it out. And i'm not sure if the rod would fall into the trans, but I didn't let it go just incase. Adjusting the cable by the usual wot method works now after the new cable was installed /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  18. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    If it does fall you can reach inside with your finger and get it out, no big deal.
     
  19. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    It would actually shift into 3rd gear but wouldn't go anywhere.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    have you driven the truck since the cable was replaced? the above quote tells me if you havent, you will have sucessfully thrown away the money for the new cable, the direct clutch is shot, which means no 3rd gear, and without 3rd, you cant get to 4th even if it is any good. i've been through 3 used trannys in my '86 in the last year, and one 4L60E in my '93. cables were adjusted as per GM specs on the first 2 in the '86, and the last trans i put in it was adjusted according to www.73-87.com. the '93 didnt have a cable on it. time to rebuild or replace your trans.
     
  20. Chris_T

    Chris_T 1/2 ton status

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    I was able to get an adjustable cable at a trans shop. It's a set-screw at the carb holding the cable in place and the cable housing is a 2 piece design with a compression collar to allow you to change the length of the cable housing as well. For me it was because my brackets/intake/carb didn't allow me to get it adjusted where I wanted it with the old cable.

    If you can't get everything you want out of a stock cable maybe that might ve the ticket. I have no idea how it looks on a diesel, but you may want to check the bracket that the cable housing goes into. I've seen some that are bent - probably from engine swaps, but who knows.
     

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