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ADjusting Hydrolic Clutches?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Pookster, Jul 14, 2004.

  1. Pookster

    Pookster 1/2 ton status

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    How do you adjust the hydrolic clutch on a nv4500? I have to press the clutch all the way to the floor for it to disengage. Any ideas?
     
  2. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    You don't.

    You must have a new clutch. The friction point will move up as it wears.
     
  3. unclematty

    unclematty 1/2 ton status

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    sounds like it's time for a BLEEDIN" session, is the slave leaking? they usually don't do that out of the blue, there is probably something broken, or about to be broken. check carefully,clutch disk,pressure plate,and throw out bearing for wear slavecylinder and line from clutch mastercylinder, check the mastercylinder also for leaking /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  4. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    out of fluid?
     
  5. Pookster

    Pookster 1/2 ton status

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    WEll, the clutch engagmeent is kinda low- I have to press all the way down to get the clutch to dis-engage. I would like to get it to be reasonable higher, and use the forward portion of the clutch pedal.
     
  6. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    If you could lengthen the rod on the slave cylinder or move the slave backwards you could do so.

    It will move up as it wears anyway.
     
  7. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    add fluid
    the hydralic slave compensates for wear and pedal position will remain unchanged through out clutch life
     
  8. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Some of the aftermarket pushrods are adjustable, just look under the dash and see if the pushrod is threaded. If so, lengthen it. Had this in my truck last time.

    MJ if you check this thread again...

    I replaced my aftermarket master with a raymold or whatever master from Napa. Had rebuild kits, $10 less than a complete master.

    Anyways, pulled the piston out of both, measured the bore as best I could with some dial indicators. Both the stock and the Raymold pistons were the same diameter. Again, as best as I could tell, since the piston sealing surface of the bore is recessed.

    Bleed bleed bleed if it pedal is low and not adjustable.

    Found an interesting way to bleed the clutch as well. Of ocurse I didn't take notes, so I'm winging it here:

    Remove slave from bellhousing, cap off the pretty full reservoir. Crack bleeder, depress the pin that hits the clutch fork as far as possible (Believe I used my fingers) re-tighten the bleeder, and release the pin. I had to repeat that about 4 times and I had a proper clutch pedal.
     
  9. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    so are you saying it is your opinion that an aftermarket rebuild kit may work on the stock Girling steel master?

    good info
    all these parts are very near or beyond the 'obsolete' designation for GM Parts
    they will be dumped eventually
     
  10. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    In my opinion they could very possibly fit. At least the piston seal. I didn't notice any real wear on the stock master that I pulled from a truck a few years back, and the rebuild kits come with those and the spring...I doubt either *really* need replacing in most cases.

    I wanted to stick the new piston/seal assembly into the old master jsut to verify, but I wouldn't do that without cleaning up the old master housing, and I don't have a hone that will do it.
     
  11. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    we should get into the stainless sleeve business for these cylinders
    no more rust
     

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