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advice on 14blt d44 swap

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by K5Kell, Aug 7, 2003.

  1. K5Kell

    K5Kell Guest

    I finally got rid of the trashed donor truck the axles came under and am ready to start working on the swap. I pulled the covers and the oil is clean /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif, no water or crud. the outside is all rusted up, I'm going to clean it up and paint them but was just wondering if people with experience had any advice on bearings or seals to deal with while its off the vehicle. Also when looking at project UAV I thought I saw something about a different backing plate or something being needed on newer chevys /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif whats the deal with that? Thanks in advance.
    -Kell-
     
  2. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    While they are already out of the vehicle, you might as well go ahead and change the bearings/seals/races if nothing else for peace of mind that you'll be starting with those things new. I did mine for roughly $100/axle /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    As far as the backing plate on a newer rig....someone else will have to chime in on that one.
     
  3. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    It is sooo much easier to rebuild an axle when it's sittin on jack stands. Replace everything. Do that and you won't have any worries for a long time. On the D44- All 4 ball joints. All wheel bearings/races. Hub seal. Axle shaft u-joints. Oil seal inside housing. When ya take the carrier out to get to the oil seals, take a look at the carrier bearings/races. I had to replace those when I rebuilt mine. It will be pretty expensive, but you won't have to tear it apart again for years. Unless of course you blow it up. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif For the 14b, the wheel bearings/races, hub seal, & pinion seal. Probably a good idea to replace the wheel cylinders too if you're gonna keep the drums. Check brake shoes and drums of course.

    As for the backing plate thing...I'm about 99% sure you won't have any problems there. Rebuild them, bolt them on, and wheel'em. /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif
     
  4. K5Kell

    K5Kell Guest

    Thanks alot, now i'm getting motivated /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif.
    -Kell-
     
  5. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Here's some more motivation. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I'm currently working on the same swap - just finished putting the D44 back together this afternoon...now onto the 14 bolt! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif It's a LOT of work and money, but what you end up with makes it all worth it. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  6. K5Kell

    K5Kell Guest

    sweet! thanks for the pics. will the u joints of a 10 blt replace the ones on the d44? gotta save cash where I can, i'm supposed to be saving up for college /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif.
    -Kell-
     
  7. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gifI believe they're the same.
     
  8. dodgedude99

    dodgedude99 1/2 ton status

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    im planning the same swap for my '88. i already have a 4" lift, will i have to do anything to the rear drive shaft at all? i plan on going to a 6" lift in the spring if that makes a difference, i can just wait till then to swap them in. the front axle shouldnt be any different, except it now just has 8 lugs correct? the rear pretty much bolts in except for that combination u joint?
    also could someone please tell me a way to figure out if my rear spring pack is a stocker with an AAL or is a replacement pack. the right rear is 2" lower the the left rear, its not the bed floor or body mounts sagging, they are new and measure the same to the same spot on the chassis. the axle to the chassis measurement is different.
    thanks
     
  9. Kia

    Kia 1/2 ton status

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    Those pix are cool, there helping me out /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    I hope to pull out my axle/diff (rear) and was wondering if it's as easy as it looks....?

    The only thing I think I'm gonna have a problem with is the springs (I think) Coz I haven't done it before are the springs loaded? am I gonna have any problems?

    Kia.
     
  10. POWERMAD

    POWERMAD 1/2 ton status

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    Jack up the rig till the rear wheels are off the ground, support the frame.
    remove the u-bolts, brake lines, shocks and e-brake.
    roll it out and roll under the new one.
    that's basicly it.
    I did mine in a gravel drive way, front and rear axles.
    so if you are on pavement it will be so much easier.
    It took me all damn day to get em up and the front calipers ground down to fit the 15" wheels.
    Freakin Chevy's.
     
  11. Kia

    Kia 1/2 ton status

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    Would I have any worry with the springs unleashing their load? (no pun intended) /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

    Or it's really as easy as unbolting everything and place the new one in?

    Kia.

    (thanks for the reply /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif )
     
  12. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    No load to be unleashed with the jackstands under the frame.
     
  13. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    It really is just as easy as it seems. Like was already said, jack the truck up till the tires are off the ground. Remove tires. Place jack stands under the frame, just in front of the front spring hanger on the rear spring. This will take some tall jack stands, or smaller ones sitting on some blocks. Lower truck onto jack stands. When the frame makes contact with the jack stands, the axle will continue to lower on the springs untill the springs are all the way relaxed. Place a floor jack uner the differential so it doesn't fall when ya unbolt stuff. From there on, unbolt the shocks, drive shaft, u-bolts, brake lines, and parking brake cables. Lower axle down with floor jack and roll it out. If you really bust ass, and you have air tools, you can do it in an hour. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  14. Kia

    Kia 1/2 ton status

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    COOL!!!

    Thanks guys for all that advice /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    I think me airtools will come in handy. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    Kia.
     
  15. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    i already have a 4" lift, will i have to do anything to the rear drive shaft at all?

    [/ QUOTE ]
    Nope. (other than change out the u-joint)
    [ QUOTE ]
    the front axle shouldnt be any different, except it now just has 8 lugs correct?

    [/ QUOTE ]
    Right.
    [ QUOTE ]
    the rear pretty much bolts in except for that combination u joint?


    [/ QUOTE ]
    Get one from a 3/4 ton 4x4 and it'll be bolt in. (Spring perches and shock mounts will be in the right places) You'll need Napa U-joint #447 if going from a 10 bolt to 14 bolt, or Napa #348 if going from a 12 bolt to 14 bolt. Only thing that may need to be customized is the E-brake hookup. I have yet to mess around with that. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
     
  16. dodgedude99

    dodgedude99 1/2 ton status

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    my rear drive shaft will be the correct length with the 14 bolt and a 6" lift? what about the front shaft with a 6" lift.
    from what i been reading around, sme say i will need new shafts and some say no.
    thanks for the help guys
    shawn
     

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