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advice on 68-72 blazer

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by tp85, Mar 14, 2002.

  1. tp85

    tp85 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Hello,
    I would like to buy a 68-72 blazer. But I would like to do some research before I buy. I bought an old vette a few years ago without knowing anything about vettes (what's good & what's not), and I sort of regret the selection I made. So I'm trying to make a more educated purchase this time.
    I would like a relatively stock 4X4 blazer. I am particularly concerned about the frame condition, and rust on both the frame and body. The drivetrain condition is not too much of a concern for me...as this is the type of work that I really enjoy.

    So, in general, what else should I be concerned about? What is desirable, and what should be avoided? Have there been any expensive lessons learned by anyone buying a project blazer? How to avoid getting a bad frame? Where are the common rust areas on frames?

    I asked quite few questions, and any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a million.
    Tom
     
  2. bassplayer4x4

    bassplayer4x4 Registered Member

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    rockers and floor pans are the first places I would look, both are relatively easy replacements, but can get really bad and sometimes be a real pain in the @ss. Pull up the carpet in the vehicle in lots of places. I would also check gaps between body parts as this is a good indicator that the frame is not straight - example the distance from between the door and front quarter panel on both sides should be close - sometime that is a problem with the hinge but more often its that the frame is racked a little. My 2 cents...
     
  3. roostr3269

    roostr3269 1/2 ton status

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    Also, check around the windshield area, Pillars, Etc....
     
  4. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    tp,

    The Blazers were offered starting in 1969. During that first year only 4935 were produced....so that makes them quite a bit harder to find than the 70 - 72 models. There was a noticeable grille change between the '69-'70 and the '71-'72 models....that's one of the most obvious ways to identify what you're looking at.

    Other than that, remember that you are looking at 30-year old trucks and if you don't know what to check for, it always a good idea to have a professional do a pre-purchase inspection for you. It will save you money in the long run.
     
  5. chevyracing

    chevyracing 1/2 ton status

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    If you find one that has a buch of undercoating ask the seller to scratch some off. Look at where the floorboard, kickpanel and firewall meet to see how rusty it is there. The rocker boxes need to be looked at as well, closely. Too bad you weren't looking when I had a brain fart and was going to sell mine.

    John
     
  6. chevyracing

    chevyracing 1/2 ton status

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    I tell you what else would be a big help is tell us the area you are in and fill out your profile.

    John
     
  7. JungleBoy

    JungleBoy 1/2 ton status

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    Tom
    I agree with the guys about the body - windshield, floors, kick panels, door bottoms, quarters (especially in front of the rear wheels in that GM-designed salt trap), bed floor. I've seen them rusted from the inside out in Arizona because the rubber floor mat trapped moisture (rain+roof=leak). The tub is the most important ($) part. My Jimmy had a hole rusted in the top of the bed, under the top. I couldn't see it until I took off the interior panels.

    Consider this - have the rear wheels removed, pull off the structural plates in the forward part of the rear wheel well. From there you will be able to see the condition of the forward part of the rear quarters, and with a flashlight you will be able to see inside the rocker boxes and up to the forward cab mount, as well as the rear most door pillar. Just to know...

    I would not even consider one with a rusty frame. La vida es demasiado corta por eso.

    You can buy patch panels for almost everything except the windshield frame. Much damage can be concealed under the gasket - do not consider one with a rusty looking windshield frame.

    Remember this - a little rust visible on the outside (rusted quarters, doors, etc) usually is the tip of the iceberg.

    Check under the battery for holes in the inner fender panel. May be worth a couple of bucks in negotiations - easy to find replacements or fix.

    I saw a fine rust free Jimmy west of San Antonio the other day - daily driver - ranch truck - uncut and needing TLC. This is what I would look for if you are planning to build your own.
    Good luck and don't hesitate to ask more questions.
    JB
     
  8. ErikH

    ErikH 1/2 ton status

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    Also, I'm pretty sure power front disc brakes became standard in '71.... they stop my '71 quite nicely... perhaps another thing to consider.
     
  9. DJs69K5

    DJs69K5 Registered Member

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    Another thing to think about is that 67-72 parts are pretty easily interchangeable...even for the pickups and GMC parts for that matter, so if it is a common truck in your area that gets resto, then parts: Q panels, Rocker boxes, Fenders, etc...might not be hard to find.
    Where I live...Heavy Chevy Duty and LCM are almost right down the street, pretty common resto project here!!! But replacement panels are not going to run that high...It just depends on if your talking a custom resto or an original. Originals can tend to cost more, cause in custom work sometimes you can do without buying the wanted things like body trim and orginal seats and carpet to fit...and work your own magic! /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  10. tp85

    tp85 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Thanks for taking the time to respond with all of the great info.

    I plan to buy, but I am willing to wait for the right truck. I live in Maryland, so I will probably concentrate on the Southeast. The Northeast worries me a little because of the road salt. But, then again, the south has more beach truck access areas??

    If anyone knows of a blazer for sale, please let me know. I may be willing to travel further if necessary.
    Tom
     
  11. JungleBoy

    JungleBoy 1/2 ton status

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    See my posts in "Costs to Fix Rust" for some sources for your search. Good Luck
    JB
     
  12. aksidentproan

    aksidentproan 1/2 ton status

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    I live in Maryland too. I picked my truck up in PA near the great lakes and the only rust is on the doors (about the size of a quarter) It only ran me 3500 bucks and its in the same condition as seen in my pictures. What part of Maryland are you in. There was a 72 for sale in southern MD not to long ago.

    Evan
     
  13. 72Blazerod

    72Blazerod 1/2 ton status

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    It sounds like you had some frame rust on your Corvette. What year Vette was it? I am a huge Vette fan but I cannot afford one right now. I have heard a lot of people telling me about rusty frames especially in the rear in Vettes. I really want a 1972, chrome bumpers and great looks, not only that, it would match my 1972 Blazer. Now, I have to win the lottery!
     
  14. tp85

    tp85 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I am also in the market for a steel bumpered vette. I always look for rust at the frame elbow in front of the rear wheels, windshield frame, and the trailing arms. There are probably other common rust areas. My current vette is an 85, luckily no rust. Yeah, I agree, $ is always an issue.
     
  15. Supergas

    Supergas 1/2 ton status

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    Check out the 70 Blazer on ebay.... It looks pretty good and he says that he replaced all body bushings etc etc.. but I agree if you do not what to look for, hire someone.. maybe a buddy that does body work.... I looked a long time for my 1971 Jimmy....
     

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