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AHHHHHH.... I think they U-Joint gods are out to get me!!!!!!

Discussion in 'Pacific Region' started by Zeus33rd, May 23, 2002.

  1. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    Just went through another u-joint at the rear of the t-case. Thats 2 in less than a month. This time I caught it before it took out the yoke though. But thats not the real problem...So I'm under the truck checkin out the u-joint at the t-case....Then just for shits and giggles I grab the front driveline and wiggle it....The CV joint had a u-joint in it that had more than 1/2" of play, and because of that, it fuxed part of the CV joint, Have to rebuild it now....the U-joint at the front diff was gone....AH:FLKJSH:AKJLH(*&(*&%#!()&)%&....WILL IT EVER END!!!!!. So Now I have no driveline up front. UGH...No more wheelin till I either get it rebuilt, or get a replacement...:(
     
  2. gokartergo

    gokartergo 3/4 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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  3. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    The joints don't break from abuse, they break from bad angles I believe. Ugh........I wish I had the money for a 1 ton CV shaft.

    Whoa...$150 for a U-joint?!?!?! I think I'll stick with the $13 AutoZone stuff. ! year warranty....There's no way I'm ever gonna make a u-joint last for a year, so I have no worries about having to buy them anymore.
     
  4. Skigirl

    Skigirl 1/2 ton status

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    How do you know what part number to get?
     
  5. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Damn!!
    I think it's more like the Ujoint Devil is out to get your rig!!/forums/images/icons/crazy.gif
    Good Luck!
     
  6. sarazk5

    sarazk5 1/2 ton status

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    Hey Kid: I think you aren't too far from me. I told you I had the same problems with the same ujoint. Mine was bad angle. I was way off on my angle just from 4" lift. I took it to DriveLine Service in West Sac... they checked my angle for free and told me what i needed to do. I ended up having to drop my tcase 1" and then had to shim my rear 3 degrees. After that my driveshaft had to be lengthened 2". They did a great job. The lengthening of the driveshaft and with balancing was only 77.00. I have had no problems since and it has taken care of the vibration... however i need to get rid of some play in my rear end. That will have to wait till after I get a new engine now that it blew up!
     
  7. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    SarazK5....Does your rig have springs or blocks or shackle flip in the back? If it has blocks...Where did ya put the shim? Between the bottom of the block and the spring pad or between the top of the block and the springs? Did the rear diff need to be shimmed up or down? Mine needs to be shimmed up. I allready have t-case lowered 1", So thats covered. And I'm almost certain my drive line isn't going to need to be lengthened. So basically what I need to do is figure what degree shim to get and where and how to place it with the blocks.
     
  8. NoSmog73

    NoSmog73 1/2 ton status

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    Hey kid generaly the blocks have a taper to them already....mike
     
  9. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    Yeah, Mine do have a taper. Rancho 4" blocks. Apparently it isn't enuff though. Maybe I'll just cut the spring pads off and reposition them.....
     
  10. sarazk5

    sarazk5 1/2 ton status

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    I had to shim them with the fat part of the shim facing the front. We put the shims between the block and the spring. The taper wasn't enough on the block alone. In order to shim my blocks we had to buy longer spring pins... I got them from Central 4x4 we had to take the old ones out and put the longer ones in. After all that my driveshaft was 2" too short.
     
  11. rockink5

    rockink5 1/2 ton status

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    HAH don't feel bad. Replaced mine last weekend and blew it out going up Sourgrass this weekend. Although hanging it on a rock probably didn't do it any good.
     

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