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air in brakes

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by mrivan, Dec 15, 2002.

  1. mrivan

    mrivan 1/2 ton status

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    Haven't been on foroum fot a long time got hung up in rebuilding a Euro 500 Se mercedes ,shifts into forth at 138, but no place to test it. I have brake problem with 73 3 quarter ton 4wd Chev pick up that I built for frien from frame up. Cant get air out of Brakes Peadal goes to floor) ,new bench bled mastercylinder . new brake stuff all the way around has got me stumped????? Mrivan, Fords are are made for chicks.........

    ,. <font color="black"> </font color> /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
     
  2. Biguub91

    Biguub91 Registered Member

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    the first question is how r u bleeding your brakes?(details)
     
  3. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I ran into a similar problem and it turned out I had a bleeder that needed to be cleaned. It was plugged and would weep a little but not get the air out.

    Welcome back BTW...it's been a long time!

    Rene
     
  4. Chris_T

    Chris_T 1/2 ton status

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    I'm a huge fan of power-bleeding the brakes. Not sure if you're putting in brand new lines or not because of the frame up, but you won't believe what kind of crud comes out of old lines. That was the cure for my 72's soft pedal when I bent new rear lines. Also makes me feel better knowing all the fluid in there is clean and not water-logged
     
  5. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Might have air trapped in the CV on the front cross member.
    Try loosening the rear input line coming down from the master. loosen it enough that it starts leaking but not enough that it comes loose. tap on the CV with a wrench to work the air out. Do the same for the front just don't let the reservior run dry.
    On the end of the reservior is a a rubber boot. Remove it. Under it you will see and end with a pin in the middle. Push in the end EXCEPT for the pin. WIth the rest pusshed in about 3/16 grab the pin and pull out on it and figure out how to hold it. That will open the metering valve in the front circuit. There is an actuall tool for doing this but I don't know what it's called.
    What happens is there is enough air in the front circuit that you can get enough pressure to open the metering valve (air compressing. need about 100psi to open that valve). Power bleeding will suck the valve open so no need to mess with it.
    I firmly believe that the propper order fro bleeding thes trucks should be:
    Rear, side you start with does not matter.
    Drivers front, Because that line comes in on the top side of the CV and it will bleed the air out the fastest and make bleeding the passenger side easier as a result.
     
  6. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    Definitely power bleeding is the way to go....
     

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