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Air sander & rust question....

Discussion in 'Pacific Region' started by ChevyCaGal, Jul 10, 2002.

  1. ChevyCaGal

    ChevyCaGal 3/4 ton status

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    Hey... I want to go buy an air sander tomorrow to sand down the truck because I want to repaint it (same thing camo)... but what kind to get? I have the mutha air compressor now so air consumption not an issue. I don't want to spend a small fotune, so what is a good sander priced reasonably?

    BTW someone told me once that if I leave it primered it's gonna rust big time... is that true? If so what can I use to prevent this? I don't want to paint it, I like the primer look not to mention wtf would I paint something for $2000 I plan to drive on trails and get banged up... /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
     
  2. shewheeler

    shewheeler 1/2 ton status

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    I was told the same thing by one of the flaky guys who was going to do my hood and fenders. The other flaky guy told me that it depends on the primer. If you use the really really good stuff - I think he said they use a Dupont product at the shop he works for - it costs more (like $260/gal or something like that), but it lasts as long long time.
     
  3. NoSmog73

    NoSmog73 1/2 ton status

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    I think the only spots that really you need to watch out for will be any spots that get sanded down to the metal ..If you want I think that the parts stores do carry a primer sealer all different brands that you can spray over the primer..
    On the sander pep girls has a nice in-line sander (the red ones) that will help with all the flat spots...mike
     
  4. ChevyCaGal

    ChevyCaGal 3/4 ton status

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    I plan to sand it down to the metal.... but maybe not..... I'm not dropping bucks into primer paint.... /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif
     
  5. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> A DA (dual action) sander is the weapon of choice in the body biz. I got my Ingersoll-Rand at Harbor Freight for less than $40, it works really good for smoothing down the rough spots. For real rough spots you'll need a bodyman's grinder too if you're actually going to use body filler on it. Body filler won't stick to paint for long so you need to get down to the metal and grind it so it's nice and rough so the Bondo sticks. Not an angle grinder, a grinder for body work is quite a bit smaller and generally runs on air. In line sanders are good for rough work on Bondo, but not the greatest for prepping existing paint for a new coat.

    If the paint is still in decent shape there's really no reason to go all the way to metal. New primer will stick to the old stuff just fine. Sounds like you aren't planning a high buck paint job, so just get the color coat off and it'll be fine. A lot less work too.</font color>
     
  6. ChevyCaGal

    ChevyCaGal 3/4 ton status

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    My paint looks crappy... it has spots with orginal paint and then spots down to the metal (example I had to sand off the pen strip after trying 4 different things to get it off and realizing none worked and hours getting nowhere)... and you can tell where it's like that when you walk up because of the layer of that original paint makes it stand up from the metals surface... oh well it'll have to look crappy... like I said I am not paying bucks for primer paint... not worth it to me at all... thanks!
     
  7. xplosuv

    xplosuv 1/2 ton status

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    Macco paint job 299.99. Its a good job for the money and wont hurt so bad when you "pinstripe" it in the brush.
     
  8. Priest

    Priest Registered Member

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    Paint sticks to nothing better than existing paint. If you can avoid going down to bare metal you will be alot better off. Once you get to bare metal you have just increased your work load....
     
  9. ChevyCaGal

    ChevyCaGal 3/4 ton status

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    Well then I will rub a bit of bondo on the ol' girl and paint over it.... thanks guys. I wasn't looking forward to sanding it down to begin with... /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
     
  10. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> Don't put bondo on anything painted, it will fall off eventually. Bondo has to go on bare metal, preferably freshly ground. I know some people may say otherwise, but when I was trained to do bodywork (500+ hours worth) I was always told that this was a big no no.</font color>
     
  11. ChevyCaGal

    ChevyCaGal 3/4 ton status

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    It is bare metal I am talking about... it's just enough to even out some sanded spots... /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     

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