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All new gauges

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by badassblazer03, Oct 8, 2003.

  1. badassblazer03

    badassblazer03 Registered Member

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    Hey, how hard is it to switch over to a all autometer dash and what do I have to buy?
     
  2. Topdown

    Topdown 1/2 ton status

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    wanted to give ya a bump cuz I am curious too. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  3. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    yeah, me 3... i cant think of a tech writeup that would be more usefull than this one. When i go S-10 I am going to completely rewire my entire dash myself and Im gonna FULLY document how I do it... but that'll be atleast a year from now. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

    j
     
  4. Topdown

    Topdown 1/2 ton status

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    nod, I want to put in a diamondplate cluster bezel with phantom gauges but have no fricken clue how to wire it up or really even where to start. (other than getting the gauges and the diamondplate)
     
  5. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Me three, Would like to know how to wire the autometers, I am going to get a set of ultra lights and a new bezel and have no clue how to wire the guages.
     
  6. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    Well, I did this on my truck and it's not really that difficult, mainly it just takes alot of time and patience. Once you get the gauges mounted in the bezel, the easiest thing to do is to get all the wires from the gauges run to a new harness end. I got a 12 port harness at Radio Shack for a few bucks. Run all the + for the lights into one wire, all the - to another wire, etc, combine everything that you can. I used LEDs from Radio shack for the idiot lights and turn signals. All of the wires run to a new wiring harness, I ended up with about 10 wires for the lighting in the gauges, turn signals, brights indicator, voltmeter and gas gauge. My oil pressure and temp gauges are mechanical so they just had lights.

    At this point you need to figure out what the wires in the stock harness are for. The easiest way that I found to do this, since the wire colors did not match the colors in the diagrams I had, was to trace the circuits on the laminated circuit board thingy that is in the stock gauge panel. you can trace each circuit back from each factory gauge to it's terminal at the factory wiring harness, then back out the other side of the harness. Draw your own wiring diagram as you do this. Once you have a complete diagram drawn up then you can cut off the factory harness, tape off any wires that you aren't going to use and then install a new harness end on the wires that you are going to use. Plug that harness into the maching one that you've already installed on your new gauge panel and viola, working gauges.

    It took me a day to install the gauges in the bezel and another day to do all the wiring, but I spent a good amount of time doing the wire tracing also. FWIW, my gauges worked the first time I plugged them in. This probably isn't a very good description, but it's kind of difficult to explain. It really does make sense. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
     
  7. mojo-jojo

    mojo-jojo 1/2 ton status

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    I just did this to my 89 /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif. Installed autometer ultra-lites.I used mechanical gauges so water temp and oil pressure were not a problem, On the bulk head connector on the back of the stock gauges. The dark green wire is for water temp. sending unit. The tan wire is for the oil pressure sending unit. the pink wire is for the fuel level sending unit. The pink wire with black tracer is 12v positve to gauges. The black is ground. The gray wire is dash lights. The light green wire is high beam indicator light. The tan wire with white tracer is parking brake indicator. Dark blue and light blue are turn signals, but I can't remember which is which. Most GMs use the same color codes. Hope this helps.
     
  8. supersize75

    supersize75 1/2 ton status

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    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif thanks!
     
  9. K5MONSTERCHEV

    K5MONSTERCHEV 1/2 ton status

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    My '72 has Auto Meters, it makes it a bit easier if you have the wiring schematic!
     
  10. T-ROY

    T-ROY 1/2 ton status

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    I worked at Freightliner building semi trucks for about 7 years, 2.5 of those in the electrical shop building different stages of wiring harnesses. I also rewired my 80 Blazer about 1.5 years ago. I totally gutted the harness, since it resembled a plate of spagetti more than a wiring harness. I started with a buss bar of self resetting circuit breakers ranging from 10 to 30 amps. The nice thing about these is that instead of having to replace fuses, you just remove the power, fix the problem, and you're back in business. I have all AutoMeter Phantom guages in my truck. Start with each circuit off of the fuse box (or whatever you use to supply power), and draw each circuit out before you start running wires. Identify all stock wires you are going to reuse with a wiring schematic out of a hayes or cliton manual, and run each wire, making sure that you leave enough room for flex and connectors. I would suggest using a painless wiring kit if your harness is not salvagable or if you just want to start from scratch. Patiance is manditory. Take on one circuit at a time or you will get lost. BABY STEPS!!!!
    Hope that helps. By the way, I am planning to start building diamond plate aluminum bezels soon. PM me with your ideas.
    T-roy
     
  11. T-ROY

    T-ROY 1/2 ton status

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    Does it bother you that the big guages point down? I built a bezel for my Blazer and could not get the Speedo and Tach to sit right. I will admit, I'm knid of a perfectionist, but it really bugs me that they point down. Other than that, I like your dash very much. Good job.
    T-roy
     
  12. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Does it bother you that the big guages point down? I built a bezel for my Blazer and could not get the Speedo and Tach to sit right. I will admit, I'm knid of a perfectionist, but it really bugs me that they point down. Other than that, I like your dash very much. Good job.
    T-roy

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Yup, it bugs me very much, especially since I put bucket seats in my truck and installed them so I sit up a few inches higher in the cab. I do have a plan to get them pointing up so I can see them better but it's just not a priority right now. Someday...
     
  13. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I like how you did your guages shaggy. The only difference that I am going for is I want the guages behind the bezel just like the stock ones. Can the autometers be mounted like that,like stock or do you have to do it like yours with them on the front of the bezel?
     
  14. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    I've seen them mounted behind the bezel, I think someone on here did it. I like the way it looks but I'm not thrilled with the way they have to be mounted. In order to mount the gauges they were basically just wired in place. I don't think that I would want to trust that to keep everything rattle-free, the tach and speedo are some big heavy units to be hanging off the back by just safety wire. I'm sure that it works fine and all, I'm just kinda funny about that kind of thing. If a more secure method were devised then I would probably go that route too.

    The other issue with doing it that way is the space issue, even with them front-mounted I had to cut away most of the blue support bracket that is on the back of the stock cluster, with them mounted behind the bezel I can only imagine the space concerns on the backside of the dash. Mine are a pretty tight fit in there as it is.
     
  15. Topdown

    Topdown 1/2 ton status

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    oh for cripes sakes... Troy I have looked at your dash about a dozen times now and completely forgot about it. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif dont mind me, I am just sitting on my head over here.
     

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