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all suspension lift or susp. &body?

Discussion in 'OffRoad Design' started by gotmud?, Feb 23, 2002.

  1. gotmud?

    gotmud? 1/2 ton status

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    i have a virgin jimmy k1500 and want 6 inches of lift, would i be better off doing a 4 inch suspesion lift plus a 2 inch body lift to avoid getting longer driveshafts and less front end problems. the truck has 154k on it with origanal springs, would add-a-leaf with blocks be ok or should i replace rear springs too?
     
  2. Seventy4Blazer

    Seventy4Blazer 3/4 ton status

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    IMO, replace the rear with a 4'' flip, or 2.5 inch flip and 2 inch springs. then front 4 inch springs and a 2 inch body lift. thats what i am planing. just me though. i am also going to do the 2.5 in the back and revolvers. zero rate in the rear anf zero rate moving the fron foreward 1.5 inch.
    this is just what I am going to do. others do other things.
    whatever you do i would not recomend blocks in the back unless you are a pavement pounder.
    Grant

    take me drunk, i am home
    www.geocities.com/seventy4blazer/parts4sale.html
     
  3. gotmud?

    gotmud? 1/2 ton status

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    Grant, Thanks for info...was thinking a short suspesion lift plus a body lift would just be less troublesome...mark
     
  4. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    I'm generally in favor of a shorter suspension and a body with it to get the height. K5's are not really happy with taller ride heights if you're going to be driving it a lot and 4" is a good practical limit. I ran about 4" of suspension and a 1" body for quite a while and was happy with it with 35-36" tires. I did run a CV jointed rear driveshaft, and I would recommend looking into the CV shaft with your lift. Experience shows you're generally better off just biting the bullet and getting the cv shaft to start with.

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
    SW-ORD
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.offroaddesign.com>www.offroaddesign.com</a>
     
  5. gotmud?

    gotmud? 1/2 ton status

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    stephen,Re: all suspension lift or susp. &body?

    stephan, i talked to tuff country and the guy there said he was'nt real sure if i would need to do a t.case drop or not can you enlighten me on this (4 inch lift) thank's, mark ps:will my stock brake lines be long enough?

    Mark, Lansing,Mi
     
  6. Mreetz

    Mreetz 1/2 ton status

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    stephen,Re: all suspension lift or susp. &body?

    You'll be a lot happier if you drop the T-case. I put a 4" susp. lift on my K5, no drive shaft extension and experienced a lot ot chatter. Once I dropped the Tcase, it all went away. I'm thinkin about the 1" body lift now because I need to replace the body bushings anyway.

    1984 K-5
    4" lift
    35x12.5 MTs
    buildin a 400 for it, any info greatly appreciated
     
  7. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    stephen,Re: all suspension lift or susp. &body?

    Your driveshaft will always be happier running at less angle. If you're happy when it's happy, drop it!
    I usually recommend new brake lines for a 4", the stockers get pretty tight, especially if you disconnect the swaybar and flex it up. We carry the procomps that are good for 4" or 6" for $100.00.

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
    SW-ORD
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.offroaddesign.com>www.offroaddesign.com</a>
     
  8. 79Beast

    79Beast 1/2 ton status

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    I can't believe I disagree with Stephen, but I would go with the 6" suspension lift. The body lift can be added later if you decide you want more lift. My advice is to get front springs with degree shims (some don't come with them), flip the shackles in the rear for 4", run 2" NON-taper blocks, a cv driveshaft (if you can afford it). Save the possibility of rear add-a-leaves to adjust your ass high/low condition AFTER the front springs are broken in. You will, more than likely need to clearance grind the cv in your stock front driveshaft. If you drop it (your call, I ran 6" in my k10 with no drop and no prob), DON'T buy the crappy aluminum pucks. They are weak (look how little contact area they have with the frame) and there is not enough locktite made to keep them tight. I made my T-case drop from 1" thick steel plate and I drilled it out for 1/2" bolts (if you buy them, get the pinchlock nuts too) instead of 3/8". This is just my opinion. Whatever you do, I'm sure will work well and look killer.
     
  9. 4GUNZ4X4Z

    4GUNZ4X4Z 1/2 ton status

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    I agree with 79Beast all the way.
     
  10. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    No reason just going to 6" won't work, only reason to recommend against it is the extra angles involved.
     

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