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all you on 3/4 runinig gear, gime a hand

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by dodgetruck91, Nov 5, 2003.

  1. dodgetruck91

    dodgetruck91 Registered Member

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    i am going to 3/4 ton runing gear soon. what i iwana know is what do i al need to chahnge IE, driveshaft lengths, u joints, break parts, shohck parts, and what tis this floater thing i hear a bout? any help would be apriciated!
     
  2. earl87gta

    earl87gta 1/2 ton status

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    depends on what you get the 3/4 ton stuff from and if you have a d44 or ten bolt up front with a 10b it will a;; be a bolt in swap if you use a 14bff rear you will need a new u joint for the rear rvery thing else should be a direct fit. If its a d44 front then you will have to change the break lines. On my 72 I moved the shocl mounts so they are both on the front of the axle like the origanal 12b instead of the front back that waas on the axle but I think in a second gen the shocks may be front back mounted.
     
  3. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    A little punctuation and sentence structure goes a long way.

    1. Now would be a good time to re-do the brakes on the axles you're swapping in. Seals and gaskets might not be a bad idea either.

    2. You will need the combination u joint for the rear either 3-3140 or 2-1153 depending on if your truck uses a 1310 or S44 joint right now.

    3. Shocks will probably bolt on fine

    4. Check your e brake cables. Another member can help you better with this stuff as I don't run an e brake.
     
  4. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    I just did this swap this past summer, so it's all pretty fresh in my head. I wish I was back home, I'd gladly run over and give you a hand, but I'm in Madison for school and have a very minimal amount of freetime.

    Here's the basics:
    - Use the calipers from your 10 bolt on the new 3/4 ton front...that way you won't have to bleed the brakes up front.
    - I found that I have to buy a driveshaft spacer for the D44 I put in place of my 10 bolt up front. The splines are just showing (if you can picture what I mean) at full droop, and they weren't like that with the 10 bolt.
    - Take Tim's advice and look over/replace the brake parts on the rear axle. Especially do the wheel cylinders on the rear axle. $15 per side and it doesn't require removing any springs, shoes, etc provided those are all in good condition anyways.
    - You'll need a combo u-joint as stated above for the rear...the front will bolt up fine.
    - Wisconsin requires a working mechanical e-brake. It sorta takes a little custom work to get the e-brake cables to work because of the different way they mount in the backing plate. I'll post some links to the posts that helped me when I had to do this.
    - A "Full Floater" axle is the "heavy duty" 14 bolt if you will. In a full floating axle, the hubs bear the weight of the vehicle just like the front axle and the hubs are held onto a spindle with the same type of nut/lock washer configuration as the front. The axleshafts bear no weight of the vehicle (they do in a semifloating) but rather only supply the driving force.
    - Remember that if you're going to a 14 bolt FF from 1/2 ton stuff, you'll need 8 lug wheels.

    That's all the big things you have to watch out for. If you have any specific problems along the way, feel free to shoot me an e-mail. I know you can't send PM's because you aren't a member, but my e-mail address is in my profile.

    Oh yeah...there are pics of the swap I did in the link in my signature.
     
  5. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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  6. gokartergo

    gokartergo 3/4 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    If your changing from a 12 bolt to a 14bff You might need to shorten your rear driveline.. I did 1 inch.. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     

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