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Almost finished Rock Sliders....PICTURES!!

Discussion in 'Pacific Region' started by Zeus33rd, Jun 5, 2002.

  1. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    Ok, tell me what ya'all think.

    http://community.webshots.com/album/39952409XtoEzW

    Not completely finished yet, still need to cap off the ends, add a few gussets, clean it up and get'em powder coated. But these pics give ya a really good idea how there gonna turn out.
     
  2. rockink5

    rockink5 1/2 ton status

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    Needs more kick out. Used the .120 wall huh?
     
  3. gokartergo

    gokartergo 3/4 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    Looks good...
     
  4. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    Hmm.....More kick out.......On the front or the rear? I actually was thinkin the same to tell the truth...Also, ya think the front leg/kick out thingy should be longer? I can still cut this apart and readjust things a bit, so any input is much approciated. PLEASE give comments and suggestions. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
    And yes, I did go with the .120....cheaper- less than a buck a foot, and we just got a delivery of 200 24" pieces of it at work....SO I don't have to worry about how much I use.. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  5. rockink5

    rockink5 1/2 ton status

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    Definetly the rear. As to the front, try it as is. I think when you get to much out there is becomes a big snag. At least in my opinion. As far as powder coating, it's easier to touch up paint
     
  6. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    Hmm.....How much more kick out do ya think? Now I think its somewhere between 10-15 degrees...??
    Powder coating....I can get it done free. So thats why I go with it. And it's just as easy to touch up powder coating as it is paint.
     
  7. rockink5

    rockink5 1/2 ton status

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    10- 15 degrees? does not look like that much in the picture. I would just say leave it, if theres that much.
     
  8. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Good Job dude!
    I would cap the ends and cut the ends at an angle for slidability onto and off of a rock.
    my .02c
     
  9. Priest

    Priest Registered Member

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  10. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    Hmm.....10 degrees on both ends? I know I'm going to cut the rear leg off and kick it out some more, But I think I'll leave the front alone...Seems to me like it might get hung up on stuff if it's kicked out to far. lol, I was wrong on my measurements....It's only 8 degrees...hehe. duh. Gonna cut them off and re work it today.
    Burt....All the ends have 45 degree cuts on them...and also gonna cap of the ends of course today. I have one of them capped of, but I got impatient and wanted to start mounting them to the truck...lol, So I have 3 ends left to cap off.
    On another note.....WoooHooo!! I found a Miller Millermatic 250 MIG welder on E-bay for $800. New they run $1600-2000 depending on were ya go. WoooHooo!!! Check is in the mail. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  11. Priest

    Priest Registered Member

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    I agree with you on the front for a Blazer. On my Runner though, because of the curvature of the body from the rocker panel up it is actually tucked in there quite aways. I figure if they cause me a problem then I'll just do like you said, hack it off and straighten it out... /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  12. NoSmog73

    NoSmog73 1/2 ton status

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    Ok here is a "new" ??? for all those making sliders ...
    I was going to do some to for me BUT ...with the "extra" boxing that the 73-75's have how would you fab those up..

    I was thinking that with the plate bolted onto the frame I only have about 2" of clearance for a guset to mount on the bottom arm and then would you still drill and mount them to that body lip under the door ( if that is how they are on then what about the body movement )
    Just wondering thanks...mike /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
    Can you guys send me pic's of just the way they mount...
     
  13. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    Extra boxing? The '73-'75's are different from my '76? Hmm...I'll take some pics of how I mounted mine tommorrow...I tried to take some the other day.....but it was getting dark, pics didn't come out. Basically all I did was cut a piece of 6" wide 1/4' thick flat bar to the same width as the frame....Which came out to a 6x6x1/4 square plate. Welded the 2x2 to that at a 22 degree angle down to the piece under the body seam...then drilled and bolted the plates to the frame. I didn't brace anything to the body...Just made sure that I left about a 3/4" gab between the body seam and the slider. The flex up and make contact with the body when stressed. Anyways, I'll get some pics up tommorrow.
     
  14. 70~K5

    70~K5 1/2 ton status

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    The '73- '75 are full verts and have the larger size rocker boxes for when the roof is off.
     
  15. Priest

    Priest Registered Member

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    I'd have to actually take a look at the frame. Are you talking about extra boxing on the body or the frame. My frame is fully boxed so as you can see from the pics I just built some but "U" shaped chanels out of 4x.190 that slip over the frame. Then I used a couple 7/16" bolts on each U to "clamp" them onto the frame. A couple washers and a nyloc on each one and I was good to go.

    I had originaly planned on adding some gussets where the tube met the mount but I have since found that even with only two mounts on the slider will support the weight of the truck so I decided it was unnecessary. I also went this route because I didn't want to weld to the frame (I'm always leary about putting heat to the frame) and I didn't want to have to drill the frame either (what can I say, I'm lazy). I'm very please with how the mounting turned out because I can remove the sliders easily for repairs should they become bent and I did not have to alter the vehicle at all. If I was going to bolt to the frame I would put a plate on both sides of the frame to distribute the load.

    I have seen people attach the slider directly to the pinch weld on the body but I presonaly wouldn't want to do this for a few reasons. Anyone have a pic of the frame on a 73 to 75?
     
  16. kpanza

    kpanza 1/2 ton status

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    You guys should give Mike (Blazen91) a holler, as I believe that he just completed a set of his sliders on Leland's (RaisedK5) 75 K5 last week - sure he could lend some advice on the subject! /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  17. 70~K5

    70~K5 1/2 ton status

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    '69- '75 K5s are full convertables to make the body stiffer for when the top is off They added big rocker boxes under the body from the firewall to behind the doors.
     
  18. NoSmog73

    NoSmog73 1/2 ton status

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