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Almost ready to fire it up for first time

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by BigBadJap, Aug 5, 2003.

  1. BigBadJap

    BigBadJap Registered Member

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    Well, motor is done and is about 3 hours aways from the moment of truth and I REALLY need it to fire up on first key turn for good cam break in.

    I want the engine on TDC #1 and have the rotor point approximately at the #1 distributor cap point (about 5 o'clock on the dist), right?

    Two questions:
    How do I confirm the motor is at TDC #1 and NOT #6
    (#1 Exhaust valve open at about 45* BTDC on timing marks is coming around to TDC #6?
    #1 Exhaust valve closed at about 45* BTDC on timing marks is coming around to TDC #1? Is that right??)

    Where is this alleged brown wire I'm supposed to disconnect before attempting to set timing or should I bother until cam break in is complete?

    Thanks!
     
  2. Dandwg

    Dandwg 1/2 ton status

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    ohh man I wish I could help out somehow, But I do not know Sheet about that stuff, But I just want to add, I am pumped up waiting to hear if it starts on first attempt /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif that stuff still gets to me,,, lol
    Good luck bud /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  3. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    Pull the spark plug from #1. Use a thin screw driver and feel if the piston is up top or not.
     
  4. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

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  5. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    What I do is pull the #1 plug, and turn the engine over with a breaker bar...When the piston is on the compression stroke you will fell a ton of air rushing by your finger out of the plug hole...Continue to rotate the engine until the balance reads 0* That is TDC my friend...The wire is basically right under the wiper motor next to the vacuum booster.. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  6. sapper

    sapper 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Hell if i know but GOOD LUCK /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  7. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    I would get the timing set with the brown wire unpluged)(it is quick and easy) then shut off the truck and take er p to 2000-2500 rpm and let er run a bit...keep a CLOSE eye on oil pressure and engine temp...if you have like a 180 tstat in and it started getting to 225-230 shut it down...

    The truck will run MUCH better and you will have better control over the revs with the timing set...and running the engine at idle for 15 seconds won't hurt anything while you set the timing...Also, prime the PISS out of it...I went thru 4 battery packs on a 24v cordless drill on Highspeed...
     
  8. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    Alright, if you have any more questions, ask, because I just put in a new motor about a month and a half ago. As far as timing, just do as fortcollinsram said about finding #1 cylinder on sompression stroke. The rotor should be pointing between about the number 1 and 3 plugs, when the distributr cap is in the truck straight. Unhook the tan and black wire, which you will find almost directly under the brake booster, before you start the truck. When you start it, it will run like crap and smoke like hell for a little bit, but thats normal. To break in the cam, run it at varying speeds from about 1800-2500 for 10-15 minutes. It may take a while to get all of the kinks out. Just ask me about all that crap. It is very important to keep an eye on your oil pressure guage when you first start it, and also look at your temp. Once the engine gets hot, after you run it for a while, take the time to go back and tighten all of the hose clamps down, since I can guarantee they will loosen up when the hoses expand and contract. Also take the time to check for any leaks around the oil pan, intake, etc. You do need to prime the engine by unhooking the distributor coil and bumping it over a few times before oyu start it. Im no professional mechanic, and had never done a motor removal and install myself before (since im only 15), but my engine turned over 2 times then fired right up. It will run hot for a while (by hot i dont mean 240, but maybe idle at 210, then after revving and idling go up to 225 or so, but this fades with use. Mine did that and now i cant get it to stay over 190, which is perfect.) The mre you let it run, the better it will run. After putting the new engine in, go about 400-500 miles with easy driving not exceeding 55 mph, then change the oil and filter and your good to go. Lke the re-builder said when he re-built mine "its just an engine." Which is true.
    Oh BTW, did you get your radiator boiled out? Its a very good idea before you run your new engine. In fact, most re-build shops wont even honor their warranty if you didnt boil out your radiator, same with new engine. If you need any more info, just ask.
    -Oh, and one more thing. You will come to find that once you get your engine running, you will figure out that the engine is fine, its just everything else that is messed up. There isnt a thing wrong with my engine, but my truck has a bad map sensor, 02 sensor, and a whole bunch of bad vacuum lines.
    -Harrison
     
  9. BigBadJap

    BigBadJap Registered Member

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    Thanks for all the replies!

    I was being lazy; didn't have the manifolds or plugs in yet. The motor is really tight making rotating the crank quite a chore. I'll get the plugs in and do the test for air rushing out just to be certain. I am pretty certain that I am on TDC #1 right now, but it would be dumb to be wrong on something like this.

    (Getting the rad boiled out today!) Good advice!
     
  10. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    (Getting the rad boiled out today!) Good advice!

    [/ QUOTE ]
    No problem. I wouldnt want you to kill your investment. The radiator is only like $20 to boil out anyways. Let us know if you need any more help. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
    -Harrison
     
  11. BigBadJap

    BigBadJap Registered Member

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    ... I think I shall name my truck "The Black Hole". The black hole gets another $300 - Radiator was toast; ordered a new modine. What sucks is paying to find out something is junk.

    The wife is gonna kill me.
     
  12. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    Ouch! /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif But just think, if you would have just left it, it might have made your engine overheat and you could have cracked a head or something. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
    -Harrison
     
  13. BigBadJap

    BigBadJap Registered Member

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    Rad is in today. Gotta pick it up at 3:00.
    I FINALLY got the stupid exhaust manifolds back on yesterday. Stupid things are pretty warped, so I needed those exhaust manifold spreaders to get them on. Even then it was a pain. I wanted to go headers, but I figure it'll cost no less than $600 CDN to get it done with cheap headers and redone y-pipe OR nice direct fit JBA shorties then someday run dual 2.5" out.

    Not enough hours in a day lately. Now that the manifolds are done, I should be able to fly through the rest - barring anymore untimely interuptions.
     
  14. BigBadJap

    BigBadJap Registered Member

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    Alright... she started on the first key turn. I had my wife giving it throttle while I added coolant and checked for leaks BUT the oil pressure is REALLLLLY high... as in almost off the gauge at 2500RPM. My gauge is in KPA, with 400 being the high level which is about 59PSI. I didn't want it to go past the 400 mark on the gauge so I had her shut the engine down.

    Is this normal?? What is the highest safe oil psi that I can hit??

    THANKS!!
     
  15. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

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    59 psi is not bad...mine is about 60 at idle first thing in the am and about 50 cruising...
     
  16. BigBadJap

    BigBadJap Registered Member

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    THanks for the reply.

    Is there any danger in going past 60PSI (400KPA) and by how much? Like the engine oil hasn't even got warm yet, so it should lower a bit, but it's almost right off the scale at 2500+ rpm..
     
  17. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    My freshly re-built motor has been up to 80 psi. when I first ran it and that was about 3500 psi. It usually idles around 40, then will go to 60 by about 2500. High oil pressure means that you are definitely getting oil to the engine. The only bad part about having too high of a pressure would be blowing out a seal like the rear oil seal or something like that. From what you said, I think yours is fine though. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
    -Harrison
     
  18. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    ^0 psi is fine...my 454 has about 75psi at idle in the morngin and will drop to 25 at idle and 53 at cruise.....Ias long as it is below 100 or so and above 15...
     
  19. BigBadJap

    BigBadJap Registered Member

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    I've gone with your advice and gave it another try.... now it's overheating. It's getting close to the red mark on the temp gauge (about 120*C) in about 10 mins of running at 2500-3000 RPM, so I again got my wife to kill the engine. I didn't have the fan shroud connected yet though, but I was blowing a big fan through the radiator to help.

    I ceratinly don't want to crack a head, but am I just being overly paranoid???
     
  20. speed_deed

    speed_deed 1/2 ton status

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    Probably.

    Is it driveable? If It is take it on a little spin and floor it to get a good breeze going through there. See what happens /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     

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